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Chriszog

New Bee
Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
88
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Location
Bedfordshire
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
20+
Hi, as a newby looking for ideas as to stands for National Hives, what do you guys use/recommend, a picture paints a thousand words. I intend to position the hives on a SE facing bank in an orchard.
Thanks in advance.
Chris
 
I intend to position the hives on a SE facing bank in an orchard.

Hi Chris

Theres an old saying that "Bees in a wood don't do any good" which, while it isn't completely accurate, gives you a guide. The point is that a little shelter from strong winds is good, but, trees can cast a lot of shade which keeps the hives cool and delays the start of the day for foragers.
The most important point is to give returning foragers visual signals of which is their home otherwise they will drift towards whichever hive is nearest. This will give an unfair representation of each colonies performance and may leave some colonies weakened. Painting the hive entrance different colours is a solution which is often adopted, as is aligning the entrances in different directions or, if you have a lot of space available, spread them up to 5m apart in pairs.
You can see one of my apiaries here (http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=34671) which, althout they use the hedge for a windbreak also have colonies facing different ways and some boxes are left unpainted.
You probably want to have them at a height you can work comfortably so you don't hurt your back with too much bending and lifting. A full langstroth deep box can weigh around 70lbs but, if you only have a few hives, consider taking individual frames home for extraction rather than a full super.
 
Most important thing for me is stability. A hive can get very very heavy. Put stands on slabs or they will sink into the ground, make your stands with wide splayed legs to prevent the wind blowing them over. Have lashing rings to tie them down. Have somewhere flat to put things during inspections. Allow enough room to get all the way round a hive. Just a few tips!
E
 
Its very much a personal choice, that will change to the most practical as you develop your apiary (ies)
I have a mixture, i have hives on two concrete blocks and a lot more hives on large wooden beams, i.e. a parallel line of two beams, on blocks. This means more per area and good use of the space. You can also slide your hives along the woods supports if you need to move them or do splits , etc.
The main down side to have multiple hives on one single row of wooden supports is that if you do some work in one hive, its pretty likely that the adjacent hive will pick up on the vibrations and before you know it, the hive is already very aware of your presence before you come to work it!!
If your starting out, its probably advisable to keep your hives in singles. Just might make things easier for you.
Nuc yards with singe nucs in, seem to work better if their on wooden supports. Theres less bees generally to have a problem with.
B+ is spot on re choosing a site. You need to avoid lots of overhanging trees and at least try and position your hives so they have some sun during the afternoon or late morning. Its surprising how difficult it can be to find a good site when you know what the right factors are when selecting the area!!
This is my Nuc yard, all on wooden beams. works well in this old quarry site. Not the ideal aspect as its west facing but the bees always get a little sun even in the winter. But its in its own valley with running water only 50 meters away so on balance i love this yard and so do the bees!! I did spend about 80 euros on all theses supports. its treated (autoclaved) pine, which was actually in the reduced section at my local wood store because the beams were warped and bent, fortunately the bees haven't noticed!! I reckon i will get 20 years out of them!! worth the investment I reckon.

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=12533&stc=1&d=1449304978
 

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Dave Cushman's site is a good place to start
http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/hivestands.html
The main thing for me is the height of the stand, to avoid too much bending. Top of the brood box should fall at hand height when standing. Hives do get heavy. I place my stands on slabs, after ensuring they are level. I prefer single stands as they give more flexibility.
 
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Thanks, Millet
I like these. If you have the space you can be really extravagant and put just the one hive per stand. Loads of room to AS each side and to put things down when you are working on the hives
 

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I like these. If you have the space you can be really extravagant and put just the one hive per stand. Loads of room to AS each side and to put things down when you are working on the hives

I was just about to say pot blocks and 3"x2"s, as in the picture above. Solid as a rock, though I support the middle of long stands like that, I reckon those would start swaying with two hives stacked with supers.
 
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Hi, as a newby looking for ideas as to stands for National Hives, what do you guys use/recommend, a picture paints a thousand words. I intend to position the hives on a SE facing bank in an orchard.
Thanks in advance.
Chris

I made this today just for you, its out of scrap off cuts and only took a couple of hours to do, a few more coats of preservative and it will be good to go, i use one the same that i made on my first hive and its more than strong enough.

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If you don't care about looks then a couple of euro pallets work fine, super strong and easy to level/set up
 
I made this today just for you, its out of scrap off cuts and only took a couple of hours to do, a few more coats of preservative and it will be good to go, i use one the same that i made on my first hive and its more than strong enough.

That is superb Millet any chance you could PM me the dimensions or post on here! Also great advice with Google Pictures why didn't I think of that!!!
Thanks for your help.
Chris
 
I have found that if I make my stands 6 foot long, with a hive each end and ample space between to place upturned roofs/supers during inspections

I use cheapo decking boards, recycled 3x3 fenceposts for legs and featheredge boards to brace and keep it square
Costs about a tenner
 
I made this today just for you, its out of scrap off cuts and only took a couple of hours to do, a few more coats of preservative and it will be good to go, i use one the same that i made on my first hive and its more than strong enough.

That is superb Millet any chance you could PM me the dimensions or post on here! Also great advice with Google Pictures why didn't I think of that!!!
Thanks for your help.
Chris
I'll make another one and try to give you the dimensions in a understandable way.
 
That is superb Millet any chance you could PM me the dimensions or post on here! Also great advice with Google Pictures why didn't I think of that!!!
Thanks for your help.
Chris

A BS National hive is 460x460mm so make the hive stand width smaller than that by a few mm and you'll be fine, the length is up to you.

What I did is used a spare frame to measure the width so I can rest a frame between when inspecting and then the length I decided to make it big enough for two hives.
 
I made this today just for you, its out of scrap off cuts and only took a couple of hours to do, a few more coats of preservative and it will be good to go, i use one the same that i made on my first hive and its more than strong enough.

That is superb Millet any chance you could PM me the dimensions or post on here! Also great advice with Google Pictures why didn't I think of that!!!
Thanks for your help.
Chris

Here you go, the wood i have used is 43mm x 70mm Scant , i do not have any 150mm tongue and grove left but that is what you can use for the front and back brace, the landing board is 7mm ply but you can use anything that suit's you, the angles on the 4 x leg's only need to be slight but all the same top and bottom, when fixing drill pilot holes to stop the wood splitting and use a minimum of 2 x 80mm screws on each glued joint, i prefare 3 screws for the leg fixing, i'm no joiner or carpenter but i hope this helps.
Thank's
Steve.

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Those green crates that you see in Tesco with fruit and veg in work well, just like the old milk crates.
 
May I suggest that you strap or rope your hive to the hive stand ?

If the hive gets blown or pushed over it will fall as a unit. There is less chance of the bees or queen dying before your next visit.
 

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