Search results

What I have done in the past is to dunk the frames in water/ give the super a good soaking and place it back on the hive above the crown board, I block off one porter escape hole and leave the other one half open. This time of year they will most probably clean out the super and store it below...

The suit is from Modern Beekeeping and it's a quality piece of kit, well worth the money. Enzo.

As I always say, It's never too young to start beekeeping, This is my little boy, he's two years and two months old and has been helping me with the bees for over a year now, gets so excited when I tell him were doing the bees.:hurray: Enzo

I normally winter a couple of Nucs and do roughly what Rab recommended but I also find that they overwinter much much better if I heat the nucs using 15 watt reptile heater mats, I run a cable down the garden to power them. all they have to produce one jar of honey and the electricity is payed...

I just bottle it and count the jars

Do the girls know about this:confused: Anyway back to the question, I bought a childs bee suit from modern beeping, top piece if kit and I have been taking my little boy to do the bees with me since before he could walk, I used to put him on a carrier on my back, like a rucksack with leg holes...

If the colony looks ok then I wouldn't worry, I often find slugs on the crownboard, the roofs are a good fit so they must enter through the entrance, It seems to me that some colonies tolerate slugs and some do not as it seems to be the same hives with the slugs and earwig in. Enzo

The truth is that it's much easier to wire up super frames with thin foundation and produce cut comb. Normal management and not stressing the bees to work in confined spaces, But still I think for me this is the next level and I learned a lot about bees and their behaviour. As for the cost of...

Hello All, A few people have asked me how my first year of trying to produce Round Comb Sections went, well not to bad but still have a lot to learn, I posted a few photos so that people not familiar with these will know what I am talking about. Overall I'm happy with the result but next...

Firstly Skyhook, you are a "real beekeeper", all of us who look after bees are in fact beekeepers, Years of experience and large quantities of hives bears little to the quality of ones beekeeping, I have known useless beekeepers which have kept (just) bees for many years and on the other hand...

I have just read it, very good read for any level of beekeeper with the all important up to date information. not really a "How To" manual though but loads of great info. Enzo

On my hives at my out apiary I have a sign saying "happy bees at work" as some people still don't really know what a bee hive looks like unless it's a WBC, and go poking around, I also have my mobile No. on too just in case of a problem, but then again, if they can read the phone No. they are...

In the past I have tried all sorts of techniques to calm bees, water spray works ok if the bees are a good mood but I find that it stops them in their tracks and doesn't really move them out of the way when you re-assemble the hive. If they turn a little spiky then you have to light the smoker...

supposed to work well, but do you really want to use another chemical in your hive?

yup, thats the one

hi kazmcc, I have the pollen ID card that you are looking at and they are ok but a little fiddly in the field, the pollen chart I use pretty much all the time is called "pocket pollen colour guide" about £1.50 from most suppliers, compact and easy to use, I have several books on pollen...

The problem I find is that the standard Natonal Brood box does not seem large enough to hold a decent colony and enough stores for the winter, every single box colony I winter, run low on stores in the new year and need feeding 1 kg blocks of fondant several times before spring, now I just leave...

I tell you what I sometimes do as I also have a few hives in the garden, if I have to re-arrange the super combs I put on a clearer board for a few hours, the sort of clearer boards I use have a rhombus escape (an elongated diamond shaped plastic mesh with a bee space opening at opposite ends)...

The frames wire excluders are far better than the plastic flat version, they don't stick down on the frames blocking off 60% of the holes, the ventilation is much improved and replacing a framed excluder is quicker with less smoke. On the cheap, I did fit a frame to several plastic excluders...

Hi RAB, My intention also is to convert these Nucs to National size, probably with some poly then wood facing the bees and for the runner, I have a few swienty poly nationals and they have no runners, the frame lugs just sit on the rebate, a little slow to use when the hive is really full of...