Search results

2 Queens in hive. One clipped and marked: Emerged late May. Started off laying ok, but numbers dwindled this last month (I assumed because of the pollen gap). Early August - sealed QC appeared which I missed. Thought old Q would then try to swarm. Wasn’t bothered about losing her, as she was...

I have the equipment. It was just the idea of making up a nuc if I thought a cage might suffice. Then the task of combining the nuc with original hive again, when old Q is squished.

Now and again I get a sting (usually arms, hands or fingers) and it might itch for a few hours or a day or two. Sometimes I don’t feel much at all after the initial few minutes. Other times it swells bad and itches like mad. Luckily I’ve had no other issues, and hopefully it remains that...

Are they generally easy to get from your GP? How long do they last? And what do they cost?

It’s a bought mated Queen. The reason I asked was, I introduced a mated Queen last year and they didn’t accept her. So it’s just precautionary in case something similar might happen.

Just a question about the old Queen, when introducing a new Queen. Would it be possible to hang onto the old Queen in a cage, without making up a nuc for her? Put her in a Queen cage (with some attendants), and keep her for a few days... until it’s certain the colony has accepted the new...

Thanks for the tip on follower boards. Never seen one before. I have used the similar plastic one that came with my poly nuc box. They seem like a good option to have.

Yeah I was going to do that, as it crumbles a bit around the edges when cut. Would they tunnel their way through the plastic cover bit? Or just through the foam bit?

PIR = insulation? I have some insulation left over, so will create a couple of dummy board out of that.

1. For example, when introducing a 6 frame nuc into a hive. Would you fill ALL the extra space with frames of foundation? I know they’ll draw out the remaining frames eventually, but is there any need to leave surplus frames of foundation in the hive, when it could take a while for the bees to...

:ROFLMAO: yeah I know it’s not going to rid the hive of varroa by itself. Just thought it might be beneficial as part of IPM. Especially with it being chemical free.

Anyone use the Bee Gym for dislodging varroa mites? Just wondered if it was worth trying?

New mated Queen been laying nearly 3 weeks. Brood pattern seems good, but there’s the odd drone Brood in among the worker Brood (Not loads, just enough to notice) Is that normal for a new Queen? I was thinking it was down to her being immature and just not fully regulated her laying yet? (A...

What would be the advice for re-using frames that were stored in the shed over winter? Is it advisable or would they need freezing/sterilised or whatever?

Originally this was just sort of a hypothetical question, but checked today and new queen has started to lay, thankfully. I had left a Q cell but was worried I had squished/damaged her, and was dreading in case the hive was now queenless. Now, the trouble is... finding the new Queen to mark...

If say, the Queen was killed by accident... how long after that would you start seeing LW eggs?

How long would a hive usually be Queenless for, before Laying Workers emerge?

Lifted the roof today to check. They’ve taken a little bit of the syrup, but there’s 20-30 dead bees in the syrup. I’ve never known the bees to drown in syrup in my rapid feeders. Is the smell/fumes from the HiveAlive killing them?

Yeah nectar is coming in.

They’re probably ok for stores. They were still taking the last of the fondant a few days ago, so thought I’d give them syrup (more for the HiveAlive boost than anything) now we’re into warmer* days.