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Sounds bad........:puke:

Does that explain why there are so many Londoners living in the west country.
 
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Insulation, insulation, insulation is the main point. Possibly air, to air heat exchangers with a very well sealed house (almost gas tight),:hat:

well ,hope you are not in high radon area http://www.ukradon.org/article.php?key=indicativemap and that you have thought about condesation within the fabric of the biulding...try putting your head in a plastic bag...lots of condenstion...same as a beehive if it is not vented properly

modern high insualtion homes have internal vapour barriers to stop inter constitual condensation with the fabric or voids..if you live in in pile of bricks with horse hair plaster and a porous tile roof then high internal insualtion can creat either fog in the cold roof void or rot within timbers in the wall, floor and roof unless you design in a internal vapour barrier ..not to underestimate the spore of the black mold fungus..toxic

in fact as a surveyor i dislike the modern trend of filling the cavity wall with foam, the old cavity system is design to have one wet wall and one dry wall..if you insualte the insualtion should be on the outside, not in the wall...your outer bricks will evenualy break up/spawl with thaw/freese process and the wall ties will rust...result the outer wall fails ie no home...we are starting to see it now just happening with the old nose bleed formaldehyde foam cavity fills used in the 1970s the outward force of apitched roof pushes the out leaf wall and it collapses due to fresze of the morter/brick sheering the mortoer joints

.
so to insualte... wooden ship lap on batterns outside of renewable wood with dense cotton waste or dense waste paper insulation panels

inernallyi inner dry cavity plasterboard made from recovered SO2 from power stations but lined with aluminiume vapour barrier for low radiance....produced with hydro electrtic in Cananda......no high pertoleum base foams...

and install a pro active vapour remaval system...which is....a chimney and wood burner stove using renewable source of wood or wood brickets..if its cold the vapour does not condense because you light a firei n the stove and the vapour is drawn up the chimney..

sorry my hobby horse, As a surveyor i see so much done ( or sold) in the name of Co2 and green, that i does not take notice of the whole cycl
 
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you would not be able to use that system for demething as it made from HDPE and will not stand temps above 65c. resin washing is just a way to get your cash water wash and bubble dry does not cost any think but water and then only if your on a meter. if you do not filter the bio after is been resin filtered you can do your engine in. recommend 5 micron filter. is it magasol resin ? hope you are doing your convertion outside or in a well vented area. methanol will send you blind mad and dead .dangerous to inhale ingest or by contact.we all know sodium hydroxide will burn contact with damp tissue.

try this link and ask what they think of that system

http://vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/today.php
 
I have always wondered if building a nice watermill with a leccy generator one side and a mechanical water pump the other side of the axel would work. Nice header tank at the top to feed the beast and a pond underneath for the pump to feed into the header. Generator geared to the necessary rpm for optimum production.

Not suitable for your average semi but a new build in the country perhaps.
 
Insulation, insulation, insulation is the main point. Possibly air, to air heat exchangers with a very well sealed house (almost gas tight),

Muswellmetro, you have miss read (I believe by above statement)?

I am not referring to the ground source/air source heat pumps.

But air to air heat exchangers for fresh/heated air. Another definition of it is Heat recovery ventilation

http://www.ashgrove.ie/cat_view.php?id=5
 

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