Tricks to getting cool smoke from a smoker

[Peter]

Hello everyone, first post here - I have been training up as a beekeeper and will have my own hive within the next couple of weeks (so excited!)

The smokers I've used belonging to my association's training apiary and didn't have a little grate on the lid like my own does so I can't fill the nozzle with wet grass as I have done there. Practicing to light mine today I've had issue with the smoke coming out being a bit too hot (from about 6-7cms away). Things that I have tried to keep the smoke cool:
- Packing some straw/grass on top of the wood shavings I've been using
- Going lighter on the bellows so I don't supply too much air

Am I on the right track here, and are there any tips on what else I could be doing? Am I just putting my hand too close to the nozzle when I'm checking the heat?

 

[Swarm]

Wood shavings tend to burn quite hot with a lot of unpleasant smoke. I have a smoker like that, it's seventeen years old, I always found it stayed alight really well and would burn for a few hours. Look for some dry, rotting wood and add that to your mix. it burns slowly and the smoke is not so thick. On the occasion where I added grass, I just stuffed a handful into it and closed up.

 

[Peter]

Thanks, I've got some woods nearby so I'll check for some rotting wood in there

 

[blackcloud]

If you put damp material in you will get steam coming out.

 

[Peter]

If you put damp material in you will get steam coming out.

I think this might me what my problem was, the wood shavings are from Pets at Home and I wonder if they're just a little damp - there was some condensation in the lid when I opened it

 

[Garry R]

Shavings do burn really hot. They are thin, Really rotten wood or I have found that ash well dried from a wood chipper is good too. Also get it going with a bit of good puffing to get the smoker going then back off. However try then just use gentle passes over the frame tops when smoking the bees and even better try not to smoke at all especially during a good flow - they will really appreciate that rather than their routine weekly smoke blast.

 

[Peter]

Shavings do burn really hot. They are thin, Really rotten wood or I have found that ash well dried from a wood chipper is good too. Also get it going with a bit of good puffing to get the smoker going then back off. However try then just use gentle passes over the frame tops when smoking the bees and even better try not to smoke at all especially during a good flow - they will really appreciate that rather than their routine weekly smoke blast.

I'll avoid wood shavings then - I have loads of straw so I'll collect some rotten wood from nearby and pack it down with that

The training apiary I was at on Saturday we barely used the smoker, only really to push the bees back down into the brood box when it was time to close up

 

[Cooperman]

I use this kind of mushroom for smoke(Fomes fomentarius ).Beekeepers use dried tinder fungus to kindle smokers.

 

[ericbeaumont]

I have loads of straw

No good, too light.

My combo is eggbox (no glue or label) to get the flames going well, and then dry woodchip, which is easy to find if you look out for it. Birch has the lowest tar, pine the most. Pack grass or herbs or other greenery on top if you wish. Don't pay for fuel!

Really can't see the point of that disc with holes in your smoker lid. Cut it out?

 

[Parsonage Bees]

I use this kind of mushroom for smoke(Fomes fomentarius ).Beekeepers use dried tinder fungus to kindle smokers.

Found one of these and it's solid like wood. How do you use it?

 

[user 20297]

No good, too light.

My combo is eggbox (no glue or label) to get the flames going well, and then dry woodchip, which is easy to find if you look out for it. Birch has the lowest tar, pine the most. Pack grass or herbs or other greenery on top if you wish. Don't pay for fuel!

Really can't see the point of that disc with holes in your smoker lid. Cut it out?

I bought a spare smoker recently and it has those holes. I assume it's to reduce the possibility of fragments of burning or unburnt fuel from falling out being blown at the bees. It doesn't have any negative effect on the longevity of the burn or ease of lighting or burning as far as I can see.

Oh...and very rotten and slightly damp wood every time for me.

 

[ericbeaumont]

reduce the possibility of fragments of burning or unburnt fuel from falling out

Makes sense, but a fine mesh would work better.

 

[Damo944]

I use hessian sacks with a bit of cardboard. Rolled then up into a cartridge buts for a good 2 hours and nice and cool.

 

[Cooperman]

Found one of these and it's solid like wood. How do you use it?

I cut it with a sharp, large knife into pieces while it is raw. If dry, then with an ax. Inside it is soft even when dry.

 

[Peter]

Thanks for the advice from everyone, I'm going to try out old damp wood since it's the most readily available - pic attached of what I've collected on this evening's walk

Any advice on how to pack it? Do I just get it started with some cardboard and put a few pieces of the rotted wood on top with some grass/leaves to catch the bits/embers?

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

damp wood is no good - if you have a greenhouse - leave it in there for a week or two to dry out. Forget this nonsense about putting green grass etc. on top all that will do is generate hotter than boiling steam.
just smash up the wood into inch or two inch pieces use a piece of scrunched up newspaper covered with a handful of wood shavings or crumbled up rotten wood to start the fire and put some more wood on top until it lights properly (puffing away with the bellows) at first you will get smoke, then roaring flames. At this point stop puffing the bellows and leave it all settle down until you have loads of smoke - it will soon cool down.

 

[Antipodes]

I think almost everyone uses the needles from this down here. I didn't realise it wasn't grown much in the UK. Often the needles are dampened to produce a cooler smoke. It's an extremely effective smoke compared to anything else I've tried.

https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/t...cies-database/radiata-pine-monterey-pine-rap/

 

[ericbeaumont]

started with some cardboard

Cardboard is no good because much of it is treated to retard fire. Even when it hasn't been treated - and you won't know which has and which hasn't - it burns too fast. Use eggbox, which lights well and flames long enough to light the wood.

Keep starter and main fuel from getting damp: that means at home, not in a wintery shed.

Forget this nonsense about matches or kitchen lighters, which go out at the merest hint of a breeze or burn your thumb. Get yourself a proper jet lighter such as a Prof; the orange one is useful to find in long grass, but have more than one just in case. Protect the nozzle from dust.

Puffing has two speeds: tickling to encourage a weak flame, or steam-train-leaving-a-station to increase the power of the heart of the fire.

 

[ericbeaumont]

extremely effective smoke

It is, in fact so are other pine and conifer needles when dry and collected from under a mature tree, but they do produce a lot of tar.

 

[Garry R]

Cardboard is no good because much of it is treated to retard fire. Even when it hasn't been treated - and you won't know which has and which hasn't - it burns too fast. Use eggbox, which lights well and flames long enough to light the wood.

Keep starter and main fuel from getting damp: that means at home, not in a wintery shed.

Forget this nonsense about matches or kitchen lighters, which go out at the merest hint of a breeze or burn your thumb. Get yourself a proper jet lighter such as a Prof; the orange one is useful to find in long grass, but have more than one just in case. Protect the nozzle from dust.

Puffing has two speeds: tickling to encourage a weak flame, or steam-train-leaving-a-station to increase the power of the heart of the fire.

The prof lighter is £3.99 but postage is £6.99!!