Moving Hives

[beeno]

Hi all,
I don't like the idea of moving a colony on more than one brood box as I would worry about the boxes coming apart in transit. A Paynes' brood box is anchored into the floor, so I feel comfortable with that being strapped with the brood box, but is it possible for a brood box or super on top slipping and sliding with ratchet straps? Overheating is also a problem, open mesh floor and travel screen may not be sufficient according to some text as the bees move upwards and block the air flow of the travelling screen. Solution empty super on top, but then I am back to two boxes. Also, I have seen advice to remove stores from brood box, as the heat generated by agitated bees can melt the wax! I do have good air conditioning in the car, but...
What are beeks advice and experience of moving hives.

 

[BeeJayBee]

Dave Cushman's site has it covered http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/movingbees.html

Using an ordinary vehicle, with the hive in the boot, you won't have any problems unless it's a very hot day, you have all the windows closed, and you're going to be taking them a long way.

I always stand boxes of bees on a small pallet, or on two shallow bearers, so the OMF is clear of the floor to allow air movement. I've never needed to use a screened roof or top cover, even though colonies have been in the car for an hour or so in the summer.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

three ratchet straps, four if your worried at right angles to eack other and cinched right up shouldn't be a problem - move them in the cool of the early morning and drive with the windows open if needs be

 

[REDWOOD]

And plenty of duck tape over the entrance

 

[Pete D]

How far are you moving them. Under an hour, no problem.
I will be taking some to Kent from my home apiary, probably 3 hours, currently on brood and half. Will move them mid to late March.

Multiple boxes no problem, just get some help and strap them.

 

[Ely]

When I travelled with a hive in the back I did as JBM said and I also put two pieces of wood on the boot floor with the hive on top so there was a gap for ventilation under the hive. 200 mile journey and bees were fine.

 

[itma]

This time of year, you'd need to be moving them a long way to need a "travelling screen".
Just ensure the 'back' of the Paynes floor is unobstructed for ventilation.

Putting tape (duct, parcel, masking ...) round the box/box joins helps to avoid the boxes twisting or sliding apart. I tape over the entrance block too. Remember that Paynes own entrance block isn't a block - it has 'mouseguard' holes in it.
Two parallel straps (well apart) should prevent twisting and (one way at least) slipping. A third strap at right angles would ensure not slipping the other way --- but the Paynes landing board stops that working! So, two straps (not in the Paynes notch) AND sticky tape ...

Actually, its during the loading and unloading that you need to be most concerned about splitting boxes apart. Two people and lift (don't try and slide) the hives!

During transport the thing to be concerned about is that the hive(s) can't move or fall over (think "emergency stop" and secure things so they really can't move!)

And old net curtain over and around the hive helps to contain the problem if you should somehow get some 'leakage' ...

 

[beeno]

Thanks all for your input and particularly for the info. relevant to the Paynes hives itma. This is something I may have to do if I sell a hive in the spring, but I am also working on mock examination questions, so it is nice to get some input from people as well as books. Hope to see a lot of my hives flying tomorrow +8C in the offing.

 

[abm]

Im a pest controller who has recently took an intrest in honey bees and swarm collection rather than destruction. Last year was my first season, and since then i've moved 5 full hives from my home to a place where i now keep them.

The process i've used was initially box or bag the swarms, or walk them into a brood box, then secure them with my home made frames, secured with tie downs from my motocross days....

1.Get 4 sections of dexian framing bolted together to just oversize a floor (in a square shape).
2.lay a tie down out on the floor, place the floor, brood box with bees in (sealed obviously) and crown board onto my tie down and strap up with the ratchet to the side of the box.
3.Secure the 3 together.
4.Now lift the complete hive and place into the bottom dexian framing.
5.Build another 4 pieces of dexian together to for a top frame.
6.Secure the top frame to the existing bottom frame with a second tie to give you a secure sandwich of dexian, hive & dexian.

The reason i use line 2 is i only have 1 arm, and this allows me to lift easily, but yep it works and the hive is well secure for transport.

 

[drstitson]

over 24hrs, european May temperatures, 1000 miles.
fine with travel screens shut in a van.

a short intra-UK move will be no problem even without travel screen if on OMF.