MAQ strips

[JonnyPicklechin]

I like using MAQ strips. I treated my hives in September and my remaining stock have gone past their expiry date.

I note Thornes have some discounted stock available in their current flash sale though they expire in March 19. I am interested in responses from those who use MAQs and have good experience and knowledge on their use:

1) what happens if one applies them to the hive past expiry? ( I assume they just lose effectiveness but....)

2) since I have used them in Sept 18 would it be worth another treatment in March as brood starts to increase?

 

[beeno]

Hi Jonny, Put spare MAQS in the freezer and use when needed. I use MAQS now as so convenient, but make sure you are +Q after use as sometimes it kills off old queens.

 

[Walrus]

Controlling varroa mites has become one of the most important tasks of the beekeeper. Mites are a pathogen, opening up the bees to viruses and weakening their immune system. Once the number of mites reaches a high enough level the colony dies. If the mite level is high going into Winter they will probably die in Spring.

The amount of varroa mites in the hive and the rate of build up depend on various factors, including influx from neighbouring infested colonies and how good the bees are at removing afflicted larvae. The only real way to know how many mites you have in any colony is to count them using an alcohol wash or sugar shake. If the number of mites reaches a certain level (many people say 6+ mites per 300 bees) then treatment is needed. You treat when you need to. The type of treatment depends on the circumstances; MAQS are good for when honey has not yet been removed. Oxalic acid is good when they are broodless.

1) what happens if one applies them to the hive past expiry? ( I assume they just lose effectiveness but....)

Given the importance of controlling varroa why would you not follow the instructions and use products that are not past expiry date? I don't think it's worth the risk finding out. The manufacturers have already done this testing.

2) since I have used them in Sept 18 would it be worth another treatment in March as brood starts to increase?

As above - depends on mite levels and circumstances. Also, Randy Oliver has a useful spreadsheet model which is a tool to help visualise what's going on inside the hive in terms of numbers of bees, brood and varroa - but it's based on median results and every individual hive is different.

My general strategy is to use oxalic in the winter when they are broodless (or nearly broodless) which ensures that they start off next season with very few mites. I can usually get to July/August before they need treating, which is after I have removed honey. I use thymol or amitraz at that point and then any later treatments are oxalic.

 

[JonnyPicklechin]

Hi Jonny, Put spare MAQS in the freezer and use when needed. I use MAQS now as so convenient, but make sure you are +Q after use as sometimes it kills off old queens.

Cheers beeno. You run after a sugar or alcy count or on regular basis and then just watch the inspection tray?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[domino]

Cheers beeno. You run after a sugar or alcy count or on regular basis and then just watch the inspection tray?

I use a wash for varroa checks. If I see the queen I put her to one side and do the mite check. It means I need to carry my washing up bowl with all the kit at each inspection, but since doing it for the last two seasons I've been spot on my varroa control.

Forming the habit to do it is the hard part.

 

[beeno]

Cheers beeno. You run after a sugar or alcy count or on regular basis and then just watch the inspection tray?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

I always treat after taking honey off in Aug. to maximise the chances of good quality winter bees as I in common with many beeks consider varroa endemic. As yet I have always had a drop which made it worthwhile. I shall insert the varroa boards in the next couple of weeks to check if I should consider doing Oxalic dribble before the queens start laying in earnest end Feb. My IPM is basically drone brood removal in spring to determine varroa levels bearing in mind that the first capped comb will skew the results!

 

[MuswellMetro]

i had problems with MAQS i think due to high temps while storing the tubs

I think the 30c+ we had in SE meant that the retailer's store got too hot, as on opening up the tubs the formic really got you. next year i will be buying early and storing in the freezer

 

[domino]

i had problems with MAQS i think due to high temps while storing the tubs

I think the 30c+ we had in SE meant that the retailer's store got too hot, as on opening up the tubs the formic really got you. next year i will be buying early and storing in the freezer

Does the freezer do them any harm?

 

[MuswellMetro]

Does the freezer do them any harm?

oooops, from the web Q&A

Hi Michiel, I'm using formic acid as varroa treatment for bees. I have two bee hives and I can only get 1 or 4L of formic acid. This quantity may last many years so I have to store it in an efficient way. I have read that the formic acid may slowly decompose to carbon monoxide and water, so I would like to know if by freezing it the decomposition will slow down or stop. – massinissa Jun 15 '13 at 13:47
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Answer

Formic acid is thermodynamically unstable to decomposition to water and carbon monoxide: HCOOH ==> CO + H2O. I assume this is what you are referring to.

A common use is acidification of silage to prevent smells. The fact that it decomposes makes it more environmentally friendly than alternatives. I was not aware that it was used in bee keeping to control varroa parasitic mites.

Lowering the temperature would reduce the decomposition rate from both a thermodynamic and kinetic point of view.

The MSDS I have looked at indicate that the bottle should be vented periodically to release the pressure built up from decomposition. However this one also says that formic acid should not be stored below its freezing point of 8C. http://ionics.ca/wp-content/uploads/MSDS-Formic-Acid.pdf Whether this is just for convenience of use or for reasons or safety I do not know.

To me, the build up of pressure seems far more of an issue than any loss of strength in the acid. In order to lose 50% of its strength, a 1L bottle of formic acid (1200g/46=26mol) would have to lose 13mol (about 312L) of carbon monoxide. That's a lot of venting! I would think a bottle should have a shelf life of 2 or 3 years.