Making new supers

[MikeT]

I am about to make some supers. I have 5BBs with floors and roof etc with only 3 occupied. I have a total of 10 supers, and will probably use a BB and a half, therefore at the moment I have 7 free for honey. At the end of the season I hopefully will be up to 5 colonies.

How many supers should I have? I will also make up another 2 BBs, floors and roofs, I also have one nuc box and I will make another in case of emergencies.

I have several 6x1 pine planks which I will biscuit joint and glue, then cut down to the required widths.

My plan is to have 5 colonies and 2 spare hives and 2 nuc boxes.

Mike

 

[Tom Bick]

I work on the calculation of four supers per hive.

 

[REDWOOD]

With no more than 3 on at one time

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

With no more than 3 on at one time

speak for youself

 

[MikeT]

I just measured up my boards and I have sufficient to make 8 without buying any more timber.

That will be the minimum needed so I'll make some more after Xmas.

 

[fatshark]

How many supers should I have?

Almost always more than you've got … nothing worse (well, OK, there are lots of things much worse but it's an expression of speech) than running out in the middle of a fantastic flow.

 

[Pete D]

I work on the calculation of four supers per hive.

Me too for honey as I don't do brood and half, did have a couple with 5 on this summer.

I like to have plenty as they make good eke's whilst feeding and insulating and with spare empty ones it saves storing the frames separate.

 

[REDWOOD]

speak for youself

I know, but you've seen how far I have to carry mine. a little often

 

[Swarm]

Almost always more than you've got … nothing worse (well, OK, there are lots of things much worse but it's an expression of speech) than running out in the middle of a fantastic flow.

That's what the extractor is for

 

[YorkshireBees]

I work on the calculation of four supers per hive.

in general and had been working to the rule of 4 per hive based on some hives would need less and some more.

Then this year happened!

It was an exceptional year for me and probably one that will not be repeated very often but I had between 4 and 6 supers on almost every hive!

That's what the extractor is for

That doesn't work if the supers are not ready for extraction!
In my case a massive Spring flow from OSR and other sources resulted in a massive number of supers on each hive but none ready for extraction!

** Note in the photo there are clearer boards on the hives, before anyone asks! **

 

[sharonh]

in general and had been working to the rule of 4 per hive based on some hives would need less and some more.

Then this year happened!

It was an exceptional year for me and probably one that will not be repeated very often but I had between 4 and 6 supers on almost every hive!


That doesn't work if the supers are not ready for extraction!
In my case a massive Spring flow from OSR and other sources resulted in a massive number of supers on each hive but none ready for extraction!

** Note in the photo there are clearer boards on the hives, before anyone asks! **

Great to see. Very impressive indeed. Are they all double brood? How do you find the polystyrene hives compared to the wooden ones?

 

[YorkshireBees]

Great to see. Very impressive indeed. Are they all double brood? How do you find the polystyrene hives compared to the wooden ones?

They were double brood at that stage as I had already demareed them several times and was hoping that double brood would give them enough space to deter swarming!

Poly hives are lighter in weight and in general the bees seem to do well in them but I'm still comparing them (multi year trial).

 

[sharonh]

They were double brood at that stage as I had already demareed them several times and was hoping that double brood would give them enough space to deter swarming!

Poly hives are lighter in weight and in general the bees seem to do well in them but I'm still comparing them (multi year trial).

Hard to know whether to change. I'm considering trying one maybe next year. Think what's deterring me, is that they are easily damaged compared to wood. Other side,is that they would be lighter, which might suit me,as have a bad back.
Thanks for sharing your photos, lovely seeing thriving colonies.

 

[YorkshireBees]

Hard to know whether to change. I'm considering trying one maybe next year. Think what's deterring me, is that they are easily damaged compared to wood. Other side,is that they would be lighter, which might suit me,as have a bad back.
Thanks for sharing your photos, lovely seeing thriving colonies.

I was typing a sentence to say they were lighter (which ofc they are) however it's not a major difference when they are full of honey!!

As with everything there are advantages and dis-advantages. Also I am not trying 2 different makes / designs. In general I'm in favour of them but a complete changeover for me would just consist of me only buying Poly to replace wood as and when they are no longer serviceable as it would be too much of an outlay otherwise!

 

[sharonh]

I was typing a sentence to say they were lighter (which ofc they are) however it's not a major difference when they are full of honey!!

As with everything there are advantages and dis-advantages. Also I am not trying 2 different makes / designs. In general I'm in favour of them but a complete changeover for me would just consist of me only buying Poly to replace wood as and when they are no longer serviceable as it would be too much of an outlay otherwise!

Yes I think your right. Would be very expensive to change over completely.
I may give one a trial myself & see how I get on. Just another question, can mice chew through them.How do you protect them for winter.

 

[itma]

I was typing a sentence to say they were lighter (which ofc they are) however it's not a major difference when they are full of honey!!

It can be a very significant difference, like 10% when full.

Some polys have standard *external* dimensions, in which case they are smaller inside, with space for fewer frames - which makes their contents about 10% lighter before considering the small difference in the actual box weights.

BHS and Paynes are made to a 500mm sq external 'footprint' - in order to have standard internal dimensions, and full interoperability with BS wooden components (except that a BS wooden roof is too small to fit directly onto one of their poly boxes).
The other makes are smaller inside.

 

[YorkshireBees]

Yes I think your right. Would be very expensive to change over completely.
I may give one a trial myself & see how I get on. Just another question, can mice chew through them.How do you protect them for winter.

So far I've been mice / wood pecker free. I don't protect any of my hives besides a narrow entrance block and haven't had any invasions / damage.

The only thing I did have one year was mice chewing through some kingspan like insulation material in the roof to get to the fondant in the middle but I now use plastic takeaway containers to cover the fondant and all the insulation is wrapped in tape.

 

[REDWOOD]

OSR, I don't get any of that down here

 

[Swarm]

Sharonh,
If you try swienty or MB boxes, they take 10 frames so are lighter to lift when full, plus they have good hand holds and are easy to lift.
paynes have a stupid design, with a central bar precisely where you would like to take hold. The grips either side are inadequate, only deep enough for the tips of your fingers. This alone can actually make a full super feel heavier than a wooden one.
Something to consider if you decide to try one.

 

[Erichalfbee]

I tried those MB hives as I was new to poly and they were top space as my wooden kit is. I hate those lips so they have all been removed. I see you have Swienty as well. They are much much better.