Contaminated beeswax foundation sheets.

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I just bought a silicone mould and plywood follower system from an Ebay seller - am going to give it a try after I've done a Bailey comb change later this season (am on my third year now). Earlier this month I spent a small fortune on sufficient wax foundation for the new brood boxes and supers. I'm hoping I'll be self sufficient, am planning to use the thermostatically controlled uncapping tray to melt the wax.
What's the best way to wire the foundation? Should I make a plywood jig, to get the W pattern? Thanks.

i have the similar silicon moulds, and wire my frames not the wax but a bit of ply with 7 nails (5 for loops and 2 terminal),loop the wire around the nails then place the cut sheet on the wires + 12volts and it is wired wax....leave it too lond and you have wire and 7 triangles of wax
 
You can never be sure.

Use you own wax, make your own foundations? Yes new beekeepers may becat a disadvantage - but never buy cheap chinese!

I can't agree more, having made and sold a few cedar garden chairs on Ebay with stainless steel fittings which take 2 days to make, people want something for next to nothing all the time, due to cheap Chinese imports that fall apart in no time!
Consequently it's not worth the time, shame.
 
yes it is the 14x12 bl&&dy awful isn't it, even darker with the packing off, and it is premium wax not the standard range

It came with a a "everything you need hive pack" bought as a birthday prsent and the person doese not want to be a beekeeper so did not use but wax is only 6mth old

Wow, I handle around 4 tons + of yellow beeswax a year and never seen it that colour ( grey ) it vary s in shade from a vivid yellow ( like your super foundation ) to a dark yellow dependent on type but I would kick off big time if some arrived that colour
 
The melting points quoted are ranges eg for pure beeswax the sample starts melting at 62 Celsius and is completely melted by 64 Celsius. Adding Stearin for example would mean that the sample started melting at 54 and finish melting at 72. It wouldn't 'average out'.
Use a small sample, heat indirectly in a water bath, allow the temperature to rise as slowly as practical. Observe the sample and the thermometer. If any part starts to melt before 62 or any part melts after 64 then it is not pure beeswax. If the sample is too large then it would be possible that the upper limit is not accurately observed but most contaminating waxes will melt at a lower temperature.
No good for low level contamination by pesticides or antibiotics
The best way to determine the spread of melting is by calorimetry method. You heat the wax sample in a super insulated vacuum test cell Heat the sample with known power and then plot the temperate rise of the sample. There is a knee in the temperature rise when the sample starts to melt. And another knee when it is completely molten. The changes in the rate of rise are caused by the latent heat of waxes. I did this at uni a long time ago on liquid crystals.
 

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