Apiguard on poly hives

[herefordshirehoney]

Hi,

I'm just about to get some apiguard for my two hives. I remember reading something about this but couldnt find the answer when searching.

I have Langstroth Poly's with top beespace, I don't have an ike and understand that the space ontop is not enough. Is it ok to put this on the top of the open mesh floor or do I need some other solution?

As my hives are only recently established from nucs, i'm thinking more near the end of august as long as the temp is above 15o.....

Thanks,
Chris

 

[oliver90owner]

Thymol vapour is heavier than air, so will leak downwards through the OMF. Your treatment may not be as effective as above the frames and without an open mesh.

I would suggest you follow the product instructions and make an eke for your hive before you start the treatment.

 

[MandF]

You can use a super in the meantime. You'll get a bit more brace comb, but it means you can start the treatment right now

 

[herefordshirehoney]

Ok thanks will have a think not brought the apiguard yet. I do have some thymol though and some decent scales now after making the sugar syrup supplement ready for winter feeding.

Just reading back on hivemakers thread on making your own treatment like apiguard it reads "much more effective than apiguard". Mind you i've got the same issue with this treatment an ike seems the way forward, im sure b&q will do some strips of wood that I could make some.

I'm wondering if go down this route or buy a pre-made treatment.....

 

[Poly Hive]

First of all what are your mite levels? As in do you need to treat?

If you do need to treat why not wait until January and use oxalic acid?

Two thoughts which may minimise making an eke.

PH

 

[herefordshirehoney]

I have yet to put in the monitoring tray to the hives, I cant see any visible issues with damaged wings. I asked the local association guy who I got the nucs from who is now the bee inspector for the area and he said as they where on old combs best to treat to be safe. (roughly 3 old combs per hive, rest new).

I know he takes the view of oxalic acid every year himself, i've already made the decision to do winter feed with the emulsified thymol mix. The only one left is whether to treat with apiguard or make the thymol treatment.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[oliver90owner]

If you do need to treat why not wait until January and use oxalic acid?

Disagree, just about entirely, with that.

I want to be a sure as I can, that the winter bees are not infrected with all sorts of pathogens, by varroa feeding on them while pupating. I consider the end of honey season the most important treatment for varroa (some won't, of course).

Healthy bees going into winter when they are needing to survive until spring is a very important priority/consideration for me.

 

[Poly Hive]

Fair enough Oliver but I monitor my drone brood and if I find nothing which is usually the case then I feel safe in leaving it until Jan.

KISS

PH

 

[herefordshirehoney]

If you do need to treat why not wait until January and use oxalic acid?

Disagree, just about entirely, with that.

I want to be a sure as I can, that the winter bees are not infrected with all sorts of pathogens, by varroa feeding on them while pupating. I consider the end of honey season the most important treatment for varroa (some won't, of course).

Healthy bees going into winter when they are needing to survive until spring is a very important priority/consideration for me.

Sounds good to me (I know some people disagree not to give treatments if needed though). As I dont have any honey to takeoff, am I best just getting the treatment made or ordered and doing it whilst the temp is higher now, rather than wait?

The bees did seem to have quite a bit of fresh nectar the weekend, I am going to balance the second hive that was not as strong as the first by taking a frame of brood the weekend hopefully, which hopefully will counteract putting on a super on the first hive too.

 

[oliver90owner]

When to do it?

If the mite loads are excessive, they need the treatment.

If not, the closer to winter bee rounds of egg laying the better.

All a juggling game, which is why my thymol treatments are as late as I can arrange and I do take note of the conditions with my treatments. Apiguard, IMO, is not anywhere near as good as it is made out to be in the advertising hype. I have some but don't often use any.

 

[drstitson]

chris - HM thymol recipe can be soaked into folded kitchen towels. It can then be placed under the perspex cover of you hives. that's what i do.

 

[herefordshirehoney]

chris - HM thymol recipe can be soaked into folded kitchen towels. It can then be placed under the perspex cover of you hives. that's what i do.

Great thanks sounds good to me.

 

[JohnF]

I use Apilife Var and put on top of frame without the use of an eke

 

[herefordshirehoney]

I use Apilife Var and put on top of frame without the use of an eke

Not for me as it melt's polystyrene =)

 

[itma]

I have yet to put in the monitoring tray to the hives, I cant see any visible issues with damaged wings. I asked the local association guy who I got the nucs from who is now the bee inspector for the area and he said as they where on old combs best to treat to be safe. (roughly 3 old combs per hive, rest new).
...

1/ Varroa levels need to be checked. For a 'hobby' hive they can easily be checked monthly. Check the natural death rate for yourself, averaged over several days - and THEN decide about treatment urgency and methodology.

2/ Old combs? Hopefully a misunderstanding there. Should have b*gger all to do with varroa. Some diseases definitely associate with old comb. But not varroa.

 

[itma]

Not for me as it melt's polystyrene =)

Isn't that ONLY on direct contact ? -- and which could be prevented.

 

[Poly Hive]

Yes direct contact.

As for they are on old combs and so need to be checked? What? There is no higher attraction to "old comb" compared to new comb that I am aware of, unless your mannie knows something that the rest of us ought to be aware of?


PH

 

[herefordshirehoney]

Yes direct contact.

As for they are on old combs and so need to be checked? What? There is no higher attraction to "old comb" compared to new comb that I am aware of, unless your mannie knows something that the rest of us ought to be aware of?


PH

Unsure only repeating what he said to me, he usually gives good advice =). One can only assume he was referring to other bee diseases. I just want to give the bee's a good start to the winter =)

 

[mbc]

old comb generally has more drone sized cells so is more attractive to varroa

 

[Poly Hive]

Not splitting hairs but it is nothing to do with the age of the comb per se. It is the number of drone cells that may result in a higher varroa level in those cells.

A new comb with a drone inclined colony may well pro rate have more and I have seen colonies determined to produce masses of drones with a good worker laying queen.

Nothing with bees is definite always. There is always wiggle room.

I was taught many years ago in Germany long before varroa arrived here that there was a factor of 8x's more attractiveness in drone cells to worker.

I spot check drone cells every inspection and have yet to see a varroa in a drone cell. I find that very odd but at the same time very pleasing. I have no explanation for it.

PH