14 by 12 s or just lots of supers?

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he did say that a queen isn't going to fill up a whole brood box in a 'hundred years'.

Unless she is consistently laying well over 2000 eggs a day, i seem to remember a someone on the forum who had a queen that layed 5000 eggs a day.
 
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Horses for courses, but I think double brood standard national is vastly superior to 14x12 if you need more room than a standard national, so much more flexible.
 
Horses for courses, but I think double brood standard national is vastly superior to 14x12 if you need more room than a standard national, so much more flexible.

I agree, far superior.
 
I use Langstroth jumbos and tilt and look is easy.. You never NEED to lift a brood box in inspections...

As for filling them up, all my langs had full brood boxes this year...

Buckfast/carnie/mongrel mix...
 
We are relative beginners but have some regular nationals and some 14x12. The bigger box can be quicker to inspect due to only having one box of frames. We find the downside is that the big frames are heavy to flip around when inspecting and the foundation distorts. I put 3 horizontal wires in the frames now as well as using wired foundation. We don't move the hives often but they are definitely a 2 person job to lift.

Ray
 
Shropshire BKA had Peter Sutcliffe give a talk last evening "Bees on double BBs". I use mostly National brood and a half but I am considering double standard BBs from now on based upon his view that using 8 frames in each box with dummy boards either side, it creates a flexible arrangement that eases manipulation and checking for QCs, insulates the brood by virtue of the void that the bees don't waste time visiting and which is available for putting outside frames in during manipulation instead of propping them up on the outside of the hive somewhere and enables the movement of frames from top to bottom and vice versa as circumstances dictate which then enables the bees to multiply more quickly than would be the case otherwise, QE and supers on top as usual in season. The way he explained it made sense last night and if I have misquoted his version of the basic idea I apologise - but in my dotage (80 plus) what do I know anyway? He is sending me a copy of his pdf on the subject, if anybody is interested?
 
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Interesting theory keeps brood insulated ? Peter has been keeping bees for 20 years, has he moved forward with the matchstick theory and insulation, It all seems a bit unnecessary to me.
 
How come no one on here is mentioning whether they are using poly hives or wooden ones? I have jumbo 14x12's & the Q's lay fully from front to back, I had a swarm when one was less than half full, don't know why they swarmed, there didn't seem any reason apart from plenty pollen & nectar about. I hefted one a week ago & I thought it was still strapped down! I haven't looked in them for a few weeks so it will be interesting come spring to see how the frames look, hopefully still well intact.
 
How come no one on here is mentioning whether they are using poly hives or wooden ones? I have jumbo 14x12's & the Q's lay fully from front to back, I had a swarm when one was less than half full, don't know why they swarmed, there didn't seem any reason apart from plenty pollen & nectar about. I hefted one a week ago & I thought it was still strapped down! I haven't looked in them for a few weeks so it will be interesting come spring to see how the frames look, hopefully still well intact.
Bees swarm that the way they go forth and multiply, some strains will swarm and throw casts at a drop of a hat no mater what space or stores they have. This year has seen a big increase in bees swarming possibly due to a mild winter and bees were able to build up quickly in the spring
 
Horses for courses, but I think double brood standard national is vastly superior to 14x12 if you need more room than a standard national, so much more flexible.

I agree
 
We are relative beginners but have some regular nationals and some 14x12. The bigger box can be quicker to inspect due to only having one box of frames. We find the downside is that the big frames are heavy to flip around when inspecting and the foundation distorts. I put 3 horizontal wires in the frames now as well as using wired foundation. …

Ray, if its hard, then you aren't doing it the easy way!

With the deeper frames it is more important than ever to keep the frames in the vertical plane while "flipping" them - more like turning a TBH comb to see the other side.
The weight (and comb flopping) only comes into play when the comb is out of the vertical - you shouldn't be lifting it by twisting the topbar.
It is MUCH easier with the right technique!



/// Expert pedant point - yes you should indeed hold brood comb at 45º to the vertical when doing one's occasional disease (brood 'scale') inspections. However, you'd only be doing that on comb that has had brood in it, and which has therefore been stiffened by prop and brood silk.
 
double standard BBs from now on based upon his view that using 8 frames in each box with dummy boards either side,

Might be almost as good as using matchsticks!

The big cold space at the sides will ensure a downdraught, requiring an updraught past the cluster or brood …

I can see the point of using double (10 frame poly) nationals as being 10% smaller and lighter than full double brood, but 8 frames and two dummy boards loose in the middle of the hive is just plain … or wait … castellations aren't part of this brilliant scheme as well, are they? :rolleyes:
 

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