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I think it was on here someone suggested heating the feeder in the oven at a low heat for 15 minutes then pouring in melted wax. I did this with three I made up , you pour in the wax and it stays very fluid but soaks on well, and just pour out the excess. No problems with leaks. Just remember to...

I would also get the entrance as small as possible and clean up any syrup spills. Wasps are about in force where I am and could wipe out a colony given incentive.

If possible put the brood box below one super, if you can fit all the used frames from the two supers in to one super. Just a thought, they only have one super to use before shifting to the brood box.

If you have it I don't see why not. That is effectively what is done on apideas.

Would the mesh on the floor be an issue? EWither with the bees hitting it or loss od vacuum?

I think the contact I sent is a different person. Not sure on his prices.

I sent you a PM with details of a good source in Ards.

Hi all My eldest (aged 11) would like to have a go at making candles. He is happy to start with something simple. I was thinking tea/night lights might be a good place to start. Can anyone with experience help. If tea/night lights are the way to go what is the shopping list? Any help much...

Try the QX for a couple of days. Beyond that you will either isolate a virign queen or annoy a colony that is dead set on leaving. If there is a mated queen , if you can keep her there and she lays your chances go up.

MDOTB makes good points re the thickness they will draw frames to. The only other thing I would say is to consider marking the frames as being without foundation. I just put a line on mine (like a minus sign). When you have all your supers back at the end of the season you know not to extract...

Great question! I am not even sure I know of a definition of a bad beekeeper. If you lived in a built up area and let your bees swarm I would say maybe you could argue that beekeeper was inconsiderate but bad? If you dropped frames all the time full of bees maybe clumsy not not bad? I suppose...

I have done that with one side, never both.

great photos MAsterBK. I had thought that was possible (part of the design) but a picture syas a thousand words!

If the site you moved them to is within about three miles of where you collected them then some of the bees might return to the swarm site the next day. It has happened to me and within a couple of days they had moved on.

Can I suggest a very good article to read: There are Queen Cells in My Hive I hope the link works. It does now .....Dani. http://www.wbka.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/There-Are-Queen-Cells-In-My-Hive-WBKA-WAG.pdf Knocking down queen cells isn't a successful approach to stopping them swarm!!

I actually like OSR honey so in general have no complaints. There is almost always some near my apiary doesn’t I make sure to extract any honey as soon as I lift supers otherwise it invariably sets. Not such a hassle on a small scale.

Good luck with your operation. If you get a better picture on the legal aspect after working with the food hygiene guys.

I used to use linseed oil but recently changed to coloured wood preservative as I think the hives look better.

Be careful with the QX. If it is a cast swarm with a virgin queen she will need to get out and mate. Of course if you have seen eggs there is less urgency.

The Dave cushman web site will give you loads of plans and advice. What material were you thinking of using?