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Sounds a good plan to me. Once they have chewed through the paper and integrated you can resort the frames. I tend to leave them a week, but think they probably do it quicker than that.

Well they'll be black now, even if they weren't before!!:rolleyes:

Never assume anything!!!

If you look on the BBKA website under Learn/General info/useful leaflets ther is one called allotment beekeeping which is intended for allotment managers. It will probably serve your purpose.

:iagree:

If there is brood in the super it should not be split from the main brood box. Put a queen excluder over the top and add your second super. With a healthy laying queen you should see brood in all stages. The eggs you saw last time will now be larvae, the previous larvae will be pupating and...

The older foraging bees will return to this site; so if there is a flow on they will continue to fill the supers.

See my second response posted 2mins before yours!!

Nationals are normally bottom bee space so yes flush with the top of the box. There will be bee space around the sides and bottom of the frames for the bees to get to the other side, so they don't need to go over the top. In a wild colony they fix the comb to the roof. As I said, the problem...

No idea what is attracting them in however: Hardly anyone uses white WBC hives these days, and the bees navigation skills guide it very accurately back to its own hive. There must be someone with bees or, less likely, a colony of wild bees fairly close to you otherwise they wouldn't be there.

From the bees point of view, not really. However if you ever want to get the crownboard off again I suggest you make a rim or you will find it glued to every frame.

Better go and read the book again then! :nono:

Just re-read your OP. Don't leave an open feeder outside the hive. All you will do is encourage other colonies to come and rob! A feeder on top is all you need.

:yeahthat: Don't panic Captain Mainwaring! Absolutely no need for pollen supplements at this time of year, (or any for that matter). Don't expect too much, they will do want they want to in their own time. They are still alive so they haven't starved, you have now fed them, they will be fine.

Probably take less time to do an Avery label than it took you to post on here!

Indeed! It's called living and learning!

When I got my first nuc a few years back I fiddled around making frame extensions to fit into 14 x 12. Was quite pleased with them at the time, but if I were doing it now wouldn't bother with them.

You need to leave the tray in at least a week to get an indication of mite drop, even then it's only an indication. I have had a relatively low drop from hives that turned out to have much higher mite level than indicated. Monitor now and then in August. Unless you get a very high drop now you...

Top Bar Hive!!:rolleyes:

Why did you split into 2 nucs? Surely easier just to introduce new queen after killing old one. The queenless nuc will most likely have made emergency queen cells by now. I would go through this nuc and remove said cells and re-unite asap.