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Ahh, you’ve noticed. 100,000 cells are not needed for brooding about every 25 days.🙂. Thats even with a honey arch, for stores for the brood. Whether a super or an extra brood box rather depends on your local situation. A super is for honey and a brood box is for brood - there is the first...

‘No nosema” How did you test?

First question from me would be ‘Where are you located?’ We don’t know enough details to be sure of what is happening. Somehow I doubt she is a late starter - but it could be - so a location of the colonies and there specific orientation/shade/etc could be relevant. Have you tested for...

One question might be ‘Why all the dead bees?’ Bees should survive the winter, not die off in large numbers - unless there is a reason….

Apiarisnt Versus hemo Apiarisnt is correct. Hemo is wrong (but now seems to be back-tracking somewhat, to cover his initial post?). Lithium ion batteries come in several types. The chemistry is different. The cell maximum voltages are different. Recharge life-span are different. Charge...

No - well I doubt it. Deeps are heavier than shallows

As I see it. ASHP is rarely cost effective at the moment. In the long run, as more electrickery is generated from renewables (ie less fossil fuel burned) the overall CO2 emissions will decrease - but the individual homeowners will not particularly be better off while the ratio of energy cost...

They don’t need to dilute honey during the winter, so it’s only needed for brooding. I expect that water was simply collected in a more amenable position - less cold due to direct sunshine. Next time, check whether the bees are in the sunshine or collecting in the shade. You will likely be...

Might be ‘bring your own box’?

At last, someone referring to shallows and not mis-using the word ‘super’. Obviously the Latin language is long gone, but they, at least, would have known what ‘super’ meant in this cntext. There are a few posts which demonstrate that many beekeepers don’t really think about what they are...

That is far better than buying a nuc in the autumn. I hope it as all of those you were hawking around last autumn - maybe/hopefully the readers took my advice and avoided the risk of buying a nuc in the autumn. You are likely better situated, to get them through the winter, than unsuspecting...

Not necessarily. Stop trying to make assumptions, and bcome a beekeeper!.

My next question, now, is: Are you reducing the pressure, to boil off the liquid at a lowered temperature?

Obviously not thought of diluting a small amount, such that the refractometer would register a result?

Mason bees do not hatch in the spring. Like bees from pupation, they emerge. There will be more than one imago exiting the individual tubes, presumably? I might expect mason bees would prefer to emerge from a north facing position, to avoid early development (much like queen bumbles...

A/S and nucs do not go together in my experience. Certainly not with very strong colonies.

Aim for 120+, or so, and unite the surplus in the autumn. Not much honey crop, if any, to be taken, so loads of feed can be provided all summer, as necessary, to keep the colonies expanding. Feed and bought-in queens might be on a par, in cost, with packages. Depends on the season, I suppose...

When the bees decide the weather is suitable, of couse. They are generally not so stupid as to start earlier, but also not dumb enough to wait for even better weather while stores are diminishing rapidly. In other words, when spring actually arrives!

It’s usually the little ones that start threads like this.:LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:

No change of use, just the usual unknowing following the unknowing and the unknowing passing it on to more of the same. A shallow box is usually called a super when OVER the brood box as a HONEY BOX. It cannot be termed a super when it is either nadired or used as the (usual) top section of a...