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Maybe thats why delivery drivers chuck things over the fence?

Editors always love something to put between the front and back cover so free content for them is much appreciated. I have written a couple of articles in the past - probably needed a couple of pictures to go with the articles. I'll look out for yours with interest.

I read Beekeeping for Dummies quite a while back - might be worth a look.

It's not uncommon for bees to partially close the entrance with propolis - they don't need much of an entrance at all. As far as insulation is concerned, if a colony was in a tree, it's possible that they could have >5 metres of timber above them, so a bit of 1/4" plywood is not quite the same...

A blend of EU and non EU honeys simply means that the jar could conatin any old stuff from anywhere. It is worthwhile signing the petition - the more petititions are signed, the more chance that the government will actually do something. Governments don't respond strategically, but simply by how...

Bees store food above them so at this time of year the hives will (should) be full, so the bees will not leave their brood which is under their winter stores which they will munch through over the coming months. The hive is probably heavy?

Bees will only draw foundation when they have to and they would usually rather extend existing comb. Sooner or later they will draw the foundation when they have no other option - once they start you're OK.

You obviously get more honey per frame and more per full box. And yes, if you want to argue - which you seem to want to do - there might be a part-filled super that is less-full as a result OR you might have, say, three full supers and not quite as much additional honey in the brood box once the...

yes - less gaps between frames.

As I hate uncapping it's 9 in a National and 8 in a WBC for me. It also means that you can scale up a little without buying any more frames - just the supers. Oh, and the castellations.

I freeze super frames in their supers; no need to wrap them unless they are going to be open to the air for a while after they are removed from the freezer as you don't want moths to jump in just as the frames are warming up and you store them for the winter months. It can take a while for a...

And I thought that Buckfasts were supposed to be well-behaved. Is it a first generation queen?

Bees don't like honey below them - they prefer it to be above and behind - so they can protect it. During winter they will munch their way upwards, so a winter visual check can reveal the level of stores by how high bees are in the frames. If they are flat against the crown-board, you might have...

No reason not to feed now unless you want to take some more honey off. I like to get me feeding done by mid September. Although I don't have to.

A hive would have to be absolutely crammed to the gunnals for a new queen not to lay; there is plenty of space and the queen isn't laying after being in the hive for quite a while. I would be surprised if she will now.

Washing soda is much safer! However a squirt from a hosepipe is all you need.

I am happy to see supercedure, there's no reason why queens should not be well-fed and if a colony has gone all season without swarming and supercedes or even supersedes, that's fine by me.

I hope you don't keep looking at tractors on your 'phone when at work. People will start to ask questions.

I assume the introduced queen is marked, so you definitely know it's her. As for the other queen, is she laying yet? If you have need of a queen, then I would consider using one of them (introduced one) as I would be surprised if two remain in the hive for too long.

Joy and Extracting are not two words that I usually put together. :)