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It is said that they have, and that some Chinese honey is produced by feeding sugar.

As I recall, the BBKA did support the VMD legislation.

Yes, of course queens lay in old comb, but the speed at which queens lay in new comb may convince you. You don't know, but background virus and bacteria are present in all colonies and the trigger to multiplication is colony stress.

Very good advice, Sweet. The BFA suggest similar, to increase numbers in line with experience. Experience is the main factor that will determine success, but logistics is the other: maintain commonality of equipment, find storage, set up a honey room, and be observant of security of the lot.

Better outcome, less expense, less labour. What is the disease history of this apiary?

My Series 3 leaks from the usual sump, front and rear main seals and the gearbox, but I found the biggest dribble at the top of the oil filter where the pressure gauge fits. Easy fix and better than taking out the gearbox to do the rear main seal (summer job, when time can be found).

Most complaints of heather crystallisation refer to large crystals suggestive of a slow process, but the cause of Darren's smooth set is likely to be a fast process high in glucose. A brassica such as hedge mustard would do it, but Darren is certain that nothing grows there except heather. Does...

Ragwort?

Only had one or two buckets of bell turn like that, Darren. It was quite quick and so very smooth. Perhaps there was hedge mustard about at the same time?

Yes, I checked a couple of frames in 13 colonies today and saw eggs & open larvae in only one. Of the others, 10 had patches of sealed brood and 2 were suspect queenless. I united one and will wait a week and unite a nuc to the last. Not much to do but follow JBM's advice and wait for spring...

Fair point, but bees are a shop window to tell a bigger story - planting for pollination, food production, intimacy with nature - and education is often worth the effort (and you can charge for it).

Drawback of the stress of slow decline could be the appearance of sac, bald, or chalk brood and perhaps even EFB. Robbing must be avoided, and if they're not going anywhere, pour into the feedhole at dusk a few pints of water+washing-up liquid. Burn the dead bees & combs and scrub the kit in...

Regular addition of open brood is a common recipe to deter LWs but context is all: imagine the outcome should a virgin emerge at this time of year: yep, zero chance of mating. Not for your current issue - JBM & Pargyle have solved that - but I encourage you to be proactive when dealing with...

How difficult would it be to remove OA from the list?

By car or courier? Cost ought to be included in the deal price.

Yes, your post in the link confirmed that it was OK; look further on the internet and the fog of conflicting opinion descends...

I meant in the pdf, which at 6 mentions 'an old saucepan' and later 'a jug' without mentioning that iron & copper will alter wax. Aluminium crops up in the same debate but seems safe to use, though certainty is elusive...

Would be useful to specify the pan metal when treating beeswax, Peter. Years ago I found an old copper pan and the result was an awful disaster.

Lovely! Forty years ago they were easy to find at London flea markets and I loved the design and sound quality, but that mellow sound would often crackle. Tempted to get one out of the loft and try the beeswax trick (or has the world deleted that low-fi signal?).

Would you add a location to your ID, Chris? Without it we have no idea which way is 'this'.