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For how many years have you used it?

If it works - and plenty of non-treaters make it work - then don't let those laughing emojis get to you, but do let us know how it pans out long-term.

The smiley after the statement tells me that you're being ironic, Viv. How well do your colonies survive the lack of varroa treatment?

Veto Pharma pdf states '2 strips per brood box', but perhaps, if the brood is on 4f downstairs and 5f up, a strip in the brood nest of each box would be sufficient (in my view).

No, cram them in now; might be chucking down rain all October. Do you treat for varroa?

Not only possible, but far more effective: no real need to feed and bees will be ready to expand in early spring. Beekeeping catalogues give the idea that a hive is made of one brood and 2 supers, but that misleads too many beekeepers into working cautiously. Hang on: are you on one BB + a...

It is likely that the bottom box is relatively unpopulated but with plenty of pollen, and the bees up top because it's warmest. Bees are better condensed for winter, so as long as you leave them 20kg they will do well in two boxes. Suggest you make a clearer board and put it under the top box...

In shards in small glass jars. Screens are ideal if I can remember to put them on, but to remove it from Manley side bars needs planning, because it must be collected cleanly, without honey. Removing it from a full frame is not practical and an extracted frame is sticky, so I put the empty...

Yes, for a beekeeper who has experience of swarm management, can identify and deal with defensive bees causing trouble on the ninth hole, and preferably, have the BBKA Basic Assessment. The last not because it suggests competence (it is too easy to pass) but because prospective landowners are...

I agree, but the info. given so far is realistic and aims to explain the difference between the dream and the reality of beekeeping at scale. No, he doesn't, and quite often I don't either 🙂 but then beekeeping is a permanently fluid, elusive and awkward activity at odds with regular...

Heed Mark's point at your peril: if you mean it to be a part-time or your sole job and you set out to market well and sell at top price, and to limit outgoings, run 100-200 colonies yourself. You will retain the satisfaction of the entire job, from spring awakening to winter market customer...

Advice from the BFA is to build numbers slowly in line with developing experience. Investment in equipment is the killer, but sell honey at a proper price and invest the return in more kit. Bees are not such a struggle, because once you have them more can be made, so long as you have...

Ah! I thought you may have a distrust of the urban environment, which in reality produces some of the finest flavours.

The easily-persuaded led by others as easily persuaded: Carmel expected it to be good as some experienced beekeepers recommended it.

Take off the half box in spring when all is green and lovely and bees are expanding. Remove about half the frames from the new BB and put that box on top of the current BB. Shake all the bees into the void, including those on the super walls and add the rest of the BB frames, closing them up...

This thread may be useful, Alan. If you buy used wood or poly, clean before use. Good luck with the course; plenty of time to read this book.

Agree, but as I said earlier, that sells well at market. It's another job but another revenue opportunity. Nice! No shifting of frames and leaky cappings when barrowing boxes over bumpy ground. Yes, that can be trouble, but they come out easily if you bang the whole box onto two blocks of wood...

Recall that Viton O-rings are used; The Apiarist has all the details way down the page here: https://theapiarist.org/vaporiser-tips-and-tricks/ and also https://theapiarist.org/sublimox-spares-and-repairs/

Why? Edit: which frames did you buy?

Lovely to see it, Darren; good work by you and the bees.