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15 - almost completed. The fondant chamber is a little narrow perhaps, but that's a restriction imposed by the size of the hole in the polystyrene bo

15 - almost completed. The fondant chamber is a little narrow perhaps, but that's a restriction imposed by the size of the hole in the polystyrene bo

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14 - fit runners and spacer blocks for the top bars. Use 35mm centre to centre spacing. Hold everything in place with wood glue.

14 - fit runners and spacer blocks for the top bars. Use 35mm centre to centre spacing. Hold everything in place with wood glue.

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13 - line the entrance hole with an offcut of 20mm plastic piping, flush at both ends. I used hot melt glue to fix the pipe in place. This prevents

13 - line the entrance hole with an offcut of 20mm plastic piping, flush at both ends. I used hot melt glue to fix the pipe in place. This prevents

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12 - prepare some top bars with a groove cut in them to take foundation starter strips.

12 - prepare some top bars with a groove cut in them to take foundation starter strips.

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11 - bore a hole from the outside of the box, through the end panel for the brood chamber. I used a 20mm bit for this.

11 - bore a hole from the outside of the box, through the end panel for the brood chamber. I used a 20mm bit for this.

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10 - if made well, this should be push-tight into the box, no doubt helped by the poor quality polystyrene which has a little bit of 'give' in it.

10 - if made well, this should be push-tight into the box, no doubt helped by the poor quality polystyrene which has a little bit of 'give' in it.

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9 - prepare a piece of 9mm ply to separate the brood chamber from the feeder. Again, the sides should be at 76 degrees. Remember to take into accoun

9 - prepare a piece of 9mm ply to separate the brood chamber from the feeder. Again, the sides should be at 76 degrees. Remember to take into accoun

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8 - fit the end pieces. No need for glue or anything like that if they've been made a good fit.

8 - fit the end pieces. No need for glue or anything like that if they've been made a good fit.

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7 - modify the end plates with a couple of scrap block arranged to allow the "sides" to be at an angle of 76 degrees (dimensions from the Kieler and t

7 - modify the end plates with a couple of scrap block arranged to allow the "sides" to be at an angle of 76 degrees (dimensions from the Kieler and t

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6 - bore four holes in the base using a 20mm bit and prepare an offcut of OMF mesh to prevent the bees having access to the el cheapo polystyrene. Th

6 - bore four holes in the base using a 20mm bit and prepare an offcut of OMF mesh to prevent the bees having access to the el cheapo polystyrene. Th

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5 - two end plates built from 3mm ply.

5 - two end plates built from 3mm ply.

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4 - the internal space. Note that the grooves inside the box are irrelevant.

4 - the internal space. Note that the grooves inside the box are irrelevant.

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3 - lids off. Kieler has four TBH-style frames and a drop-in feeder to take fondant.

3 - lids off. Kieler has four TBH-style frames and a drop-in feeder to take fondant.

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2 - size comparison with a Kieler mini nuc from Modern Beekeeeping. Note that the quality of the polystyrene in the latter is much higher.

2 - size comparison with a Kieler mini nuc from Modern Beekeeeping. Note that the quality of the polystyrene in the latter is much higher.

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1 - the starting point. A polystyrene box ~30cm cube with an internal space ~15cm cube. These are used for shipping reagents to molecular biology la

1 - the starting point. A polystyrene box ~30cm cube with an internal space ~15cm cube. These are used for shipping reagents to molecular biology la

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fatshark

DIY mini nuc/mating hive

A project to convert a polystyrene box to a mini nuc (mating hive) using scraps from the offcut bin. There does not seem to be a way to determine the upload order for pictures, so these are numbered sequentially.
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