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10 - if made well, this should be push-tight into the box, no doubt helped by the poor quality polystyrene which has a little bit of 'give' in it.

13 - line the entrance hole with an offcut of 20mm plastic piping, flush at both ends. I used hot melt glue to fix the pipe in place. This prevents

12 - prepare some top bars with a groove cut in them to take foundation starter strips.

11 - bore a hole from the outside of the box, through the end panel for the brood chamber. I used a 20mm bit for this.

10 - if made well, this should be push-tight into the box, no doubt helped by the poor quality polystyrene which has a little bit of 'give' in it.

9 - prepare a piece of 9mm ply to separate the brood chamber from the feeder. Again, the sides should be at 76 degrees. Remember to take into accoun

8 - fit the end pieces. No need for glue or anything like that if they've been made a good fit.

7 - modify the end plates with a couple of scrap block arranged to allow the "sides" to be at an angle of 76 degrees (dimensions from the Kieler and t

10 - if made well, this should be push-tight into the box, no doubt helped by the poor quality polystyrene which has a little bit of 'give' in it.

fatshark
Jan 3, 2011

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