Should I be inspecting my hives

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Mar 13, 2016
Messages
579
Reaction score
77
Location
Burwell, Cambs
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
9
I have two hives. One being fed and one being treated for varroa. Queen excluders have been removed from both. I haven't inspected the hives for a few weeks and am just letting them get in with their winter preparations. I'll look in their when all the treatment and feeders need removing but is there any other reason why I need to inspect them at the moment or shall I just leave them to it?
 
been no reason to inspect since mid August really. Unless you think there is a problem don't look in on them at all now - once you've finished feeding, get rid of the feeders, close up the holes and you're done.
 
if you are not weighing your hives and as yet are not too experienced in judging stores by hefting, then that might justify a quick peek to see the full extent of the stores and how that equates to the heft. No need to remove any frames though, just a look down them from above. JBM got in there while I was typing
 
Just one point. If you have an eke on for treating, then I would remove that once the treatment is over. Otherwise is additional space they need to heat.
 
The trouble with new beekeepers opening up now is they might squish a queen and if the queen is having a brood break there will be massive panic attack.
 
Depends, what did you have in mind that may need fixing?

I have nothing in mind that could need fixing as any problem should have been fixed a month or two back.
Nothing to do with wood or foundation, what else could be a problem now, that can be fixed so the bees carry on into spring with a good laying Queen that we had on last Months inspection.
 
Last edited:
what else could be a problem now, that can be fixed so the bees carry on into spring with a good laying Queen

Re- queening any hives that have just been brought back from the heather and found on stripping out to have a failing or drone laying queen, uniting multiple q- mating nuc bees and giving them a new queen so they are good strong stocks to go through winter...with a good laying queen, etc.

Transferring mini nucs, with queens that are surplus, into quad boxes to go through winter on top of strong colonies.
 
Last edited:
Re- queening any hives that have just been brought back from the heather and found on stripping out to have a failing or drone laying queen, uniting multiple q- mating nuc bees and giving them a new queen so they are good strong stocks to go through winter...with a good laying queen, etc.

Transferring mini nucs, with queens that are surplus, into quad boxes to go through winter on top of strong colonies.

Surely that is the norm for a commercial fellow who migrates lots of hives during the honey season.
The same does not apply to static bee keepers does it ? , i'm not arguing i would just like to know the pro's and con's of a novice opening up this time of the year, i know the cons but i can't find any pro's.
 
Another reason to open the colony up now is to get a picture of the strength of the colony going into winter. When you open them up again in the spring, you have something to compare it with.

Lets say the colony thickly covers 10 frames in October but only 8 in the spring. You know that 80% of the colony over wintered successfully.
Lets say a different colony covers 10 frames in October but only 7 in the spring. You know that 70% of this colony over wintered successfully.
This is useful information if you are looking to rear queens from one of your colonies next year.
 
Last edited:
Is there anything that can be fixed now though as we are into October ? .

I fixed two hive stands last week, now that the supers are off and it's fairly easy to lift the hives :D

Otherwise, unless you have a shedful of spare queens kicking around in your mating apiary and are but a mere small scale beekeeper - no.
 
I still can not understand opening the brood box now.

We have scales for weights.

We have an inspection tray that monitors varroa, the inspection tray also lets you know what brood is being uncapped and in which areas of the brood nest, more towards the front of the hive the warm way, regardless of that drivel.

WHAT is the point and what would you gain from pulling the brood box apart this time of the year, none commercial 3000 hive owners by the way.
 
I fixed two hive stands last week, now that the supers are off and it's fairly easy to lift the hives :D

Otherwise, unless you have a shedful of spare queens kicking around in your mating apiary and are but a mere small scale beekeeper - no.

I mentioned wood earlier in my ramblings.
 
I still can not understand opening the brood box now.

See post #15
Its not about brood. Its not about weight. Its not about varroa (at least not directly).
Its about the susceptibility of the over-wintering bees to the viruses that often kill off disease prone bees. I am looking for vitality (which comes from having the genetic make-up to withstand most of what nature can throw at them).
Now, of course, not everyone will do this (especially not a beginner) - but, some of you might ;-)
 
See post #15
Its not about brood. Its not about weight. Its not about varroa (at least not directly).
Its about the susceptibility of the over-wintering bees to the viruses that often kill off disease prone bees. I am looking for vitality (which comes from having the genetic make-up to withstand most of what nature can throw at them).
Now, of course, not everyone will do this (especially not a beginner) - but, some of you might ;-)
Whoops you have now made me a clueless beginner, which i am any way.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top