RogueDrone
House Bee
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2011
- Messages
- 340
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Wet Wales
- Hive Type
- National
- Number of Hives
- 30
Once you paint you have to keep painting if you don't then you don't, less work more time for the important BK tasks.
wood can double its thermal conductivity if its allowed to absorb water.
a good reason to paint or at aleast waterproof
I paint my lesser quality cedar hive parts with Cuprinol shades. and the good quality red cedar I lightly oil with boiled linseed oil which retains the deep natural red of the cedar and shows off the grain really well. It's all purely aesthetic as cedar doesn't really need treating in any way because it's retains its natural oils and lasts for years.
I have to join this conversation, since I am still not sure how to best paint the hives. Our hives are all cedar seconds from that big supplier we all know. I have used linseed oil with melted beeswax inside, because I love the colour it comes out with, but noticed that some have still turned a bit grey and some got black spots after the winter, like water went in.
What went wrong? Should/Could I use Cuprinol clear on top of the linseed oil to preserve it better? I don't like when they turn grey/silver and would like them to keep their colour, but how to do that best?
As far as I am aware, grey comes from a "sunburn", so you normally need paint with pigments inside to protect it from burning, clear paint got no pigments, so would that not mean that it will turn grey with just clear? Could the combination of linseed + clear solve this?
And how much Beeswax do I have to add to the Linseed? I suppose that the Beeswax is for waterproofing the Hive, which didn't seemed to have worked.
I hope someone got the experience with this, my Hives looked all great the first year, but after the first winter....
I used linseed with beeswax for my pallet built TBHs. (Pallet wood is rubbish wood).. The beeswax and linseed washes out after a year. I now use more durable paints.. Cuprinol etc.. which wash out after three years or so...
If looks are one of your major criteria, use one of the range of 5 year woodstains from Ronseal etc. I used these on my Langs made from red something or other wood (can't recall offhand). Some very nice shades and 5? year life.. Three coats mind you so labour intensive. OK so far after two winters..
Is this really the only option?
No, you could dip them in hot wax.
Isn't that why we use cedar? IIRC it doesn't absorb water.
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when started Ronseal quick dry all externals no time now.
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