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I sell 8oz jars for £3.50, and always sell out. I also sell little 1.5oz jars for £1 and they always sell, even though it's more economical to buy an 8oz jar. Using smaller jars increases volume which in turn increases profit.

Put a test frame in from your good hive and go back to it 3-4 days later and see if any queen cells have been started, if no queen cells then she's in there. If you find queen cells , you have two choices, 1. let them rear a queen or 2.if they are quite weak, combine to the good hive then maybe...

I paint my lesser quality cedar hive parts with Cuprinol shades. and the good quality red cedar I lightly oil with boiled linseed oil which retains the deep natural red of the cedar and shows off the grain really well. It's all purely aesthetic as cedar doesn't really need treating in any way...

I wouldn't feed fondant, it's not necessary. A thick 2:1 syrup is best now as they will store it better and only if it's needed.

Yes, this got sold but will have a couple in the spring time, thanks.

It's harder to extract when cold

Capped honey keeps for ages, it's the wax moth you need to worry about.

It looks like your bees are evicting drone brood in the pupae stage. It's nothing to worry about, they probably decided they don't want any more drones taking valuable resources. Let them get on with it and in early September give them an apiguard treatment or other varroa control medication.

Without being condescending, if you are starting beekeeping you really need to learn how to see eggs in cells. Saying that, if there is brood in the hive, she will be there, again, learn to look for a queen. One way I find is to not look at individual bees but slowly scan each frame and look for...

It's all weather dependent and if there are enough drones about. You will see an increase in drones during spring and summer and a decline in Autumn. So to answer the question, as long as weather is good and plenty of drones about, anytime between late April to September (roughly).

I see people on here that have out apiaries and also taking their hives to the heather. Do you need permission to take the hives out to the heather/fields or do you just put them out there out of sight from prying eyes. I've got a field 2 minutes from me and it would be ideal for a couple of...

Name and shame them, they might bother to do something about it if no one buys from them.

I united recently. They got through the newspaper in less than 24 hours, all was ok and queen was alive and laying, they will just colonise all boxes you place on. To see if they've got through the paper, look under the hive and you'll see it on the floor.

You could kill the "angry" queen, introduce the good queen from your nuc into angry hive then let the bees in the nuc raise another queen. No queen-less period and you're still raising from your own stock. The only disadvantage is if the newly emerged queen from the nuc mates with existing...

Could be inadequate ventilation in the hive. Is your inspection tray in situ? If it is, remove it unless you are monitoring for mites. Is your entrance block in or out? Even though the weather appears over cast, it's still quite warm and even more so inside a hive full of bees.

I united a nuc to a larger colony using newspaper method. Paper was eaten through within 24 hours, it was successful .

Hi, I have a nucleus for sale it's advertised on here under 2014 nucs for sale. I am open to offers if you're interested and I'm not a million miles away.

Forgot to put price £160, this includes correx box for transportation.

I got one from bs honeybees, very fast delivery and good quality .

I have a 5 frame nucleus for sale with a marked (green)2014 queen. Plenty of Brood in all stages and stores. On DN4 Hoffman frames.The queen is from my own 2013 queen and are very good tempered and productive. They are ready to be hived. You can transfer into your own box and inspect if you like...