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Would they need heat to aerosolise it? I thought the heat was for sublimation.

I assumed we'd mix water with the oxalic crystals to form a "liquid" and that would be injected into a cup of sorts to be heated and vaporised, so "similar" to the other vaporisers. Is my understanding incorrect?

I was looking through options for Oxalic treatment. I only have 12 hives so been using a wand, want something easier. I see tons of products ranging from £105 to £130 that use propane as heating source. How effective are these compared to the much more expensive systems that run off 230v? For...

I put a good table spoon and still seems to attract the wasps. I put the trap out with a sugar water mix with spoon of vinegar and wasps attracted to it in seconds.

In my UFE I use dowels to very easily and quickly change the entrance size

I’ve tried traps about 20-30m from my apiary and that seems to do the trick. I also changed most of my hives to UFE and the rest reduced the entrance and so far no problems with colonies being overcome.

When replacing a queen in a defensive colony we all say you see the improvement in 6 weeks. When I look at the sequence of events this is how I see it: Kill the old queen Wair 7 days, knock down EQCs and introduce new queen Two weeks (14 days) countdown to when all the old queens cells have...

I had similar last year.

I found this very interesting. The power of 6’s Has anyone tried something similar?

I tried a trap about 20m from my apiary and trapped what looks like hundreds of wasps, see no bees at all. I used sugar water with about two tablespoons of vinegar. Last year I had a trap in the same place and got mostly wasps but also a few bees. This year we have an incredible number of wasps.

I read that bees won’t be trapped if you include a bit of vinegar. True?

For some reason the bees made no headway through the candy. So given that there were mostly nurse bees I opened the cage and put it onto the bars. She walked out, walked around a bit and went down between frames.

Yeah, part of the reason we released the new queen to a mini-nuc. Gives us time to find out what’s really going on and deal with the old one.

Good advice thanks. When I said I’d wait to make sure the new queen is ok what I was thinking is to make sure she’s laying well. I was going to base it on eggs, but maybe as you suggest wait for capped brood. The existing queen has been a massive challenge to find. I’ll write another thread on...

I need to re-queen a very defensive colony with loads of bees. Interestingly they only filled two frames in the super. Really undesirable genetics. Instead of doing the usual caged introduction I decided to build a 3-frame nuc with open bottom (see pic), using a frame of brood with nurse bees...

Not sure if you got the idea from this guy (The Bee Whisperer) He explains it in detail, says he’s tried it with great success.

As the two colonies were very similar we decided to buy two different queens to compare (Ligustica and Buckfast). Bought from two different suppliers as well. The Ligustica was a fairly small queen with an already faded dot. She was also not moving in her cage like the Buckfast. Looked a bit...

Interestingly I find the contrast of white eggs on dark background easier to see.

Tried that, but maybe not the right one.