Search results

:iagree: Always use hive straps. Luckily I don't have to worry about flooding at any of my apiaries but one is quite exposed to wind so I use a pair of ground anchors to pass the strap through and now there is no chance of anything being blown over!

Brilliant looking but I'm like the others and prefer dark green or colours that blend in for hiding my hives. I do like the paint job on the supers, makes them look like wood! :icon_204-2:

I have no experience with the above but looking at the specs "Image sensor 1.3 Mega Pixels (interpolated to 2M)" It's not a high number of pixels for the resolution they offer so it all really depends on what you want to do with it.

Glad you seem to agree with what I was thinking! Funnily enough another thing (besides the price) that put me off the Nikon R1 system was the use of non-standard (as far as I'm concerned) CR123A batteries! I have AA and AAA rechargeable batteries for all my kit. Anyway still have a few weeks...

Thanks for all the advice. Have just spent some time reading about ring flashes vs macro flashes! ATM I'm considering Metz mecablitz 15 MS-1 Macro Flash

Yes I have researched and read so much about the lens that I finally convinced myself to buy it. Regarding the flash, the R1 is just too much for me to justify for the amount of use I would make of it! I just can't decide if to spend a bit more than some of the cheaper offerings for TTL

Having indulged my passion for photography during beekeeping using a trusty compact camera for a few years I have decided to upgrade my DSLR kit to enable me to have a better go at macro shots. I have a Nikon D300S and have pretty much decided on the lens to buy Nikon AF-S VR Micro NIKKOR...

After a talk at our bka a couple of years ago by the man from the council I have ONLY used specific "Best Before" dates as my lot/batch identifier! ie Best Before 01/04/2016 Makes my labels simpler and as I only jar in smallish batches I can easily keep track of them.

Never presume anything! No idea what the weather has been like in your area but, besides a couple of nights, we have had very mild / warm weather so far this Autumn and it wouldn't surprise me in the least to find brood in any of my colonies.

I did the same. Installed in an old under-counter freezer (compressor removed).and it works completely fine. I do not believe in heating too much and it will do 2 x 30lbs buckets (OSR / Spring) at say max 36 degs C over a couple of days. I used cable ties and tywrap bases to secure it to the...

AFAIK Most if not all sublimators are 12v "The power source can either be a 12v car battery of 40 Ah or more, other type of accumulator, or a car cigarette lighter used with a seven metre extension lead."

:iagree: I had a batch once that started fermenting, I stuck it in the freezer and use it for baking only. Doesn't taste of fermentation but I would never sell it (or give it to friends and family either).

I use the Demaree method with great success but it has taken a few years to get the timings right. It is, in my opinion, the best method to retain all the bees together and keep the colony as productive as possible. I use a method that varies to the one described in that link but each to their own.

I'm not making it difficult at all. Just pointing out there are different options and doubling of colonies due to artificial swarms is NOT the only path. Also it is a common mistake / problem that is encountered by beginners when they only have 1 colony and need, for example a test frame! I...

Not necessarily. There are well published ways of keeping bees without doubling your hive numbers all the time, otherwise I would have long ago been in trouble. I only increased from 12 to 15 this year and at no point did I double up and then combine. I will not argue with the fact it may be a...

Be careful when using acronyms, I think you probably mean AS (Artificial Swarm) ??

My bee shed (where I store all my supers / BB's etc.) is near to 2 hives in a garden. During normal times I can work inside with the door open and no bees bother me but at the moment when (as I believe there is a dearth of nectar) I only have to have the door open a couple of minutes before...

I had a colony once that the bees seemed to seek out people in the garden from. TBHI solved it by moving it to one of my field apiaries.

I've only experienced wax moth damage in supers that have frames that have been brooded in tbh.

AFAIK and in my experience wax moth, specifically their lavae (that do the damage) are only interested in frames of drawn comb that have at some stage had brood in! I have only had problems with stored used brood frames. In terms of wax moth in a hive, as others have said, a healthy sized...