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Is yours a puma then?. The thrust bearing in those are shockingly bad, with the gearbox being a close second. I've changed both many times in a previous life on customer vehicles. You can't even drop the box on the crossmember like is possible with the R380.

Still stripping box's & putting strips in (Apistan) this year. Had a dose of sepis recently and it is still a struggle to do a full day. Not a lot needs feeding fortunately, apart from the late nucs. I received a much welcomed gift of a Montecola Queen bred on Anglesey courtesy of Stuart/...

I was going to say the same thing, maybe that could be the new "infused" range 🤣

I don’t know why my question ended up as a quote !!!. I will ask again, Oxalic dihydrate or crystals ?, or are they the same thing? . I have found differing sellers offering both for sale.

Give us a call, could possibly arrange something for when we have finished our own as not far from you, Or you are welcome to visit to look at our setup.

Varroa overload

There is one sure thing I have learnt, after twenty four years working for Shell, fuel companies will never be beaten, They may roll over and let you tickle their belly occasionally, but a keen eye has to be kept on the claws.

Very few of our BS nuc feeders are painted on the inside. We were advised by our paint supplier not to use any type of paint in the feeders unless certified food safe.

After talking with Murray about this we srarted using pins. It seems to me comparing brand new frames that over time & under tension crimped wire straightens out and looses tension, While pinned wires don't.

We've not had a one pull out, but then I tend to be quite careful & generally only pull the middle frames.

A long while ago I bought complete colonies from Ged Marshall and the frames in them just had a vertical staple through the top bar into the side bar. Those frames have been exposed to Lots of curses 🤬 over the years. Now as they are recycled a horizontal pin is added. I bought around 200...

As Murray states, the time V cost ratio works out a no brainer even for us and it gave the apprentice rainy day work waxing the frames we had. The Frames are a lot stronger than conventional seconds IMHO.

Nothing fancy for us when using the instavap, straight in the entrance with a rag to hold the vapour in, same way with the nucs.

Or buy new from Murray, wax dipped will last at least ten years before needing treatment again. No risk of disease transfer and probably on a par price wise with second hand cedar.

Started putting Apistan strips in the Colonies that have had the supers removed. I did our second nuc apiary also. 61 nucs of which only 11 needed feed, all Marco Queens. It's like bee armagedon at the yard today, robbing is at biblical proportions, and it's not our own which is frustrating.

60 to 70 mini nucs, a mix of Mann lake which have not had much use and some brand new Apidea. Only reason selling is that we are moving to Kieler box's next year. Open to offers as need the shelf space.

For us the jarring is never ending. I've just spent the last two days filling jars and the evenings labeling them and all the while thinking 🤔 " the Apistan isn't doing any good still in the packet ".

I do 😁, but only to clear any stragglers. Last year I bought a job lot of Canadian clearing boards from someone local that retired due to illness. These work really quickly, about four hours per colonie,we soon found that left anything more than overnight and the bees have worked them out.

Sorry I'm a late entrant to this discussion. For us the only option is the large Dadant, it just works where others need effort.