Recent content by Barbarian

I usually place bait hives in friend's gardens. They enjoy watching scouts checking out the hives. I place each hive on a stack of 3 milk crates. I'm too old to climb ladders. One problem I've had with captured swarms is that you can get swarmy or aggressive bees. I like to re-queen swarms from...

I collected a bait hive from a friend's garden. It's on on my list to clean up but I won't be returning it for a couple of months.

In my area, these filters can go in the general waste bin. General waste goes to an incinerator where the heat is recycled.

From my local scrapyard I got a piece of perforated metal. The holes are too small for bees to get through. I cut strips about the same size as standard mouseguards. I use pushpins to secure to the hive, leaving a beespace entrance below the bottom edge. The guard does not pollen-strip...

My SO Energy supplier is giving a £40 sweetner if a pal switches to them. I also get £40 for the recommendation. The reference code is so.energy/r/SQMKMHQHH I have used them for several years and get Priority Service Meter Readings at no charge.

Is it worth the effort ? You will have your energy cost, filter materials cost, mould cost and your time and effort. I prefer to use my solar wax melters and use kitchen roll for filtering. The blocks of wax are traded at honey equipment auctions and to beekeeping eqipment suppliers.

In the late 80s I kept my bees in a shed. Because of problems, I have kept them outdoors since then.

I need help. For several years I have had a swarm trap at home, and a trap in the gardens of a couple friends. For the last few years we have not had success in attracting a swarm. The traps are made from old WBC brood boxes, have a small entrance and are about head height. Each is loaded with...

For several years I have used a system similar to Simon's which I read on a Canadian (?) source. In the apiary, I set up a slightly distanced stack. On a stand, I put a crude solid floor which is opened at the front and bac, on top goes a shallow eke, then a clearer board where the bees exit...

Sorry if I upset anyone by using capitals. I have sight problems and my current laptop is an ASUS one which doesn't have a light-up key which comes on when the CAPS key is engaged.

I SHARE AN OUT-APIARY WITH 2 OTHER BEEKS. WE DON'T USUALLY HAVE PROBLEMS WITH HIGH WINDS. WE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH VANDALS PUSHING HIVES OVER. TO COUNTER PROBLEMS WE USE STRAPS. WHEN A STRAPPED HIVE IS PUSHED OVER THE SECTIONS USUALLY STAY TOGETHER. THERE IS LESS CHANCE OF THE Q AND THE BEES...

The behavour of the bees on your inspection can give a clue. If the bees are moving purposely on the comb, then a Q may be present. Running agitatedly about the comb may point to Q less.

I don't insulate my hives. I think that insulation inceases the heat in the brood nest which causes the bees to use more stores. I prefer to feed my hives if they get light. I prefer to breed from the hives that have not needed feeding.

In the same vane, I got some sealed tins of T & L Golden Syrup which were OOD. I am thinking of using them to make a dilute stimulus feed on some of my hives. Does anyone know about HMF levels in such a source ? Thoughts ?

I prefer to have my frames warm way. If I have a frame that needs replacing I put it next to the entrance. The Q seems relucant to lay on this cold frame so I can lift it out when all the larvae have hatched/reduced.