What did you do in the 'workshop' today

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Been doing a few hive repairs. Fortunately not many this year as I did almost everything last Spring.

I had a couple of poly broods that needed a few wax moth holes patching up, a roof that was starting to come apart at the corners because the nails had rusted through and another with rot in the internal battens (clearly not cedar, though the rest is).

I also have a couple of old wooden brood boxes that need some repair work to the top and bottom edges of the boxes where the bees created their own entrance.

James
 
This thread allows for a loose interpretation of 'workshop'.

Painted (with wood preserver) three tall stacks of empty boxes - at the apiary. Despite the highish temperature, not many bees were flying. However, the boxes with bees looks smart enough. The lack of warmth gives the empties a decrepit look after a winter outside. Of course, you might say that I wouldn't have to paint them at all if I left them as bare cedar. But it's not an age-with-dignity look, the dull grey that they take on.

I had time to look at a couple of hives that had a question mark hovering over them. The first was bursting with bees, so I took put a second deep on and put two frames with open brood, plus honey and pollen and empty drawn comb in it. The other has a queen which is becoming a drone layer. Brood is very patchy and about 66% drone. I decided to remove her and hope that they raise a new queen. Some drones have already emerged in this hive. I'm hoping that in three weeks' time a queen will be able to get mated.

Perhaps the queen is by now a full drone-layer even though there is some sealed worker brood. Should I have given the colony a frame of with eggs from another colony?
 
Converted 2 x Commercial polynucs ex Maisemore to National via table sawing in two to reduce height and adding width to end walls with 25mm Celotex.
Labour of love - but then they were barely used and free. (a must for a skinflint)
 
Does anyone know if the Lyson langstroth polyhives from Abelo are interchangeable with wooden langstroths? Thank you
 
Does anyone know if the Lyson langstroth polyhives from Abelo are interchangeable with wooden langstroths? Thank you
Phone Abelo and ask for dimensions. I always check if I am thinking of a change of supplier for the same brood boxor super size even if the internal dimensions are regular eg National, Langstroth as they are often a little different externally depending how much insulation they incorporate in the design/mould,
 
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Needed to move my two out apiary hives into a more secure footing so made up this. Had already secured scaffold jacks for a reasonable price and spent the morning working out dimensions and drove it over lunchtime.
 

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Needed to move my two out apiary hives into a more secure footing so made up this. Had already secured scaffold jacks for a reasonable price and spent the morning working out dimensions and drove it over lunchtime.

I like the idea of legs on hive stands that are adjustable as pretty much nowhere I have bees is level. Scaffold jacks always looked far too expensive as a way of doing it though.

James
 
Most places I have bees, I can get away with wedging bits of wood under the stand legs or manage to balance some slabs so they are level but this site is so lumpy & uneven.
 
I like the idea of legs on hive stands that are adjustable as pretty much nowhere I have bees is level. Scaffold jacks always looked far too expensive as a way of doing it though.

James
Still way cheaper than this option! I can make 3 lots for the price of this….
 

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I used four pieces of wood the same width and depth as the legs of the stand and cut a slot in them, Drill a hole in the main legs and put a long coach bolt through it which will also fit through the slotted extensions. Use a big penny washer at each side. Level it all up by sliding the extensions up or down and tighten - I use a wing nut. When you are happy with your level then use a long screw or two per leg to fasten each extension in position. Also has the advantage that the short extensions are the bits that may rot over the years - not the main legs.
 
I used four pieces of wood the same width and depth as the legs of the stand and cut a slot in them, Drill a hole in the main legs and put a long coach bolt through it which will also fit through the slotted extensions. Use a big penny washer at each side. Level it all up by sliding the extensions up or down and tighten - I use a wing nut. When you are happy with your level then use a long screw or two per leg to fasten each extension in position. Also has the advantage that the short extensions are the bits that may rot over the years - not the main legs.
Pictures please!
 
Needed to move my two out apiary hives into a more secure footing so made up this. Had already secured scaffold jacks for a reasonable price and spent the morning working out dimensions and drove it over lunchtime.
I was also making these last week. Really pleased with the outcome as fit perfectly in the back of the pick up, quick and easy to assemble / level. I can fit three Langstroth hives on at a squeeze but prefer to put on two & use the space in between to place the roof & supers when inspecting. I have another 12 to assemble in the next few weeks. I got the scaffolding jacks for £6.25 each so a bit of an investment.
 

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Finally finished making another four frame stand. That's the last of the reclaimed timber used up.

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A very nice job .I 've just made 2 like this myself only thing different is i made the bottom edge of the leg the same as the angle so is parallel to the top of the frame ,more support for the legs especially when boxes filled with.honey ,easier to transport in the back of the car too .
John.
 

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