Gasvap Modifications

[understanding_bees]

Probably not that important but with the experiments so far I've found that the dry weight (after the tablets have dried) does vary considerably ... I'm sort of aiming for 2gm dry weight per tablet and with the hand making equipment I have I find it varies between 1.00gm and 2.2gm ... not sure why this is as weighing the 'dough' before pressing the tablet and using the same weight of dough should yield the same dried weight ... but it doesn't ?

I think that I have an insight into why there may be variation in weight of the dried tablets. You refer to the mixture of powder and water as "dough". I would be inclined to have only a slightly damp mixture, which should be mixed very thoroughly to ensure that it has uniform consistency. If you want 2gm dry tablets, and use 10% water (for example), then 2.2 gm mixture would yield a 2gm dried tablet. If you have such a great variation in dry tablet weights, it suggests to me that the mixture was not uniformly damp.

 

[pargyle]

I think that I have an insight into why there may be variation in weight of the dried tablets. You refer to the mixture of powder and water as "dough". I would be inclined to have only a slightly damp mixture, which should be mixed very thoroughly to ensure that it has uniform consistency. If you want 2gm dry tablets, and use 10% water (for example), then 2.2 gm mixture would yield a 2gm dried tablet. If you have such a great variation in dry tablet weights, it suggests to me that the mixture was not uniformly damp.

You can't add very much water as the OA basically absorbs it and becomes liquid ... you literally have to add drops of water and the the binder takes up the moisture not the OA. 10% is about 20 times too much.... perhaps my use of the word 'dough' was misleading ...

I suspect it's something in the chemistry ... OA is Hygroscopic and gum arabic also absorbs water so it may be that selective absorbsion by the two components and selective retention when the tablets are air dried could be the problem ... more work to do.

 

[understanding_bees]

You can't add very much water as the OA basically absorbs it and becomes liquid ... you literally have to add drops of water and the the binder takes up the moisture not the OA. 10% is about 20 times too much.... perhaps my use of the word 'dough' was misleading ...

I suspect it's something in the chemistry ... OA is Hygroscopic and gum arabic also absorbs water so it may be that selective absorbsion by the two components and selective retention when the tablets are air dried could be the problem ... more work to do.

Thank you for your response. I acknowledge that my experience has not been with OA, and I hope that you have success with your investigations and experiments. I can appreciate that only a very small amount of moisture is required. You mention gum arabic as a binding agent, and I wonder if you are dissolving this gum in water before moistening the OA. If the gum is dissolved first, and the resulting solution of gum is not viscous, then it may be possible to achieve a truly homogenous mixture of OA with only a minimum amount of binder.
I also wonder about the method that you use for compressing the powder. You mentioned in an earlier comment using a hammer or mallet to compress the powder, but I wonder whether the steady pressure that could be applied by squeezing the tablet forming tool in an engineer's vice may be a good alternative.

 

[DeeJunFan]

Does anyone know would this single flame Cadrim version work ok

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cadrim-Kit...7M482MM/ref=dp_fod_1?pd_rd_i=B087M482MM&psc=1

 

[pargyle]

Does anyone know would this single flame Cadrim version work ok

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cadrim-Kit...7M482MM/ref=dp_fod_1?pd_rd_i=B087M482MM&psc=1

There's no reason why it shouldn't but the key to using these little culinary torches is to get the heat of the Gasvap up quickly and then turn the flame right down to maintain the sublimation. I've had a number of this type of small torch and they do produce a very hot flame ... what tends to happen if you let them keep going a long time at a high heat is that it burns out the piezo igniter and then... it's pretty useless for using with the gasvap. You can still make creme brulee ... but you will need a match to light it.

 

[blackcloud]

I use the cheapest butane torches I can find on eBay (as low as a fiver) and have made a a copper reducing ring to adapt them to the gas cap
I've fitted the Gas vap into a tripod holder so it can be set down and kept running The piezoelectric lasts longer than the throttle valve.
I preheat the gas vap with another torch.Turn down the torch to absolute minimum Use butane propane mix cans in colder temps and keep them warm before use.
This has eliminated the flaring issue completely.
Marvellous invention

 

[polymath]

Here you are Bobba ... Mk 2 .... and a few. Not my greatest woodturning but they are not a work of art ,,,

Okay being a bodger i have just used a 38mm whole cutter and and a 24mm flat bit hole cutter to make mine. The question i have though is what glue did you use to put the brass into the wood and hold it. I have been looking up high temperature apoxies and some others but if you have a recommendation much appreciated, will post pics when all done.

 

[polymath]

I use the cheapest butane torches I can find on eBay (as low as a fiver) and have made a a copper reducing ring to adapt them to the gas cap
I've fitted the Gas vap into a tripod holder so it can be set down and kept running The piezoelectric lasts longer than the throttle valve.
I preheat the gas vap with another torch.Turn down the torch to absolute minimum Use butane propane mix cans in colder temps and keep them warm before use.
This has eliminated the flaring issue completely.
Marvellous invention

can you post a picture of the tripod you have made would love to see.

 

[blackcloud]

can you post a picture of the tripod you have made would love to see.

The contraption is at the apiary until next week but if you can excuse the scrawling until then this might help.
Its been roughly made from light duty strap used as meccano.
The copper pipe spacers are cut to the diameter of the blowtorch nozzle which is then clamped between the upright pillars which have been grooved inside with an angle grinder to locate it at te best angle
Its in its prototype stage but so far performs well and allows me to put the gas vap down still running while I prepare the next hive and not have to faff about relighting and adjusting.
Next mod will be a heat shield to protect the blowlamp head

 

[JamezF]

I think that's a lovely "exploded parts" diagram Obviously not an engineering drawing, but provides the necessary information sufficiently clearly.

I would have been very impressed if you'd produced CAD drawings though

James

 

[pargyle]

Okay being a bodger i have just used a 38mm whole cutter and and a 24mm flat bit hole cutter to make mine. The question i have though is what glue did you use to put the brass into the wood and hold it. I have been looking up high temperature apoxies and some others but if you have a recommendation much appreciated, will post pics when all done.

I used a bit of fire cement to bed the timber into the copper cap and then put a small self tapping screw (countersunk) through the end of the timber cap and into the copper cap just to make sure it did not come off.

 

[blackcloud]

I would have been very impressed if you'd produced CAD drawings though

James

Thanks but after three hot showers the shame hasn't gone yet...

 

[polymath]

Okay as i said I am bodger, no access to nice wood turning, not that I would know how to use. So here are some pics, thanks to some guidance on sizes previously on this forum, 24mm flat wood drill for hole, 38mm hole cutter for outside, flame retardant to bond copper cap pieces to wood and then 35mm flat wood drill to cut holes for holders and an old biscuit tin with some bits off a an old caravan roof. Jam jar is to carry small amount of crystals with me when doing swarms.

 

[polymath]

Here you are Bobba ... Mk 2 .... and a few. Not my greatest woodturning but they are not a work of art ,,,

Not as neat as you, I am a total bodger, no wood turning skills, just used 38mm whole cutter, 24mm flat bit whole cutter that made top pieces and another flat whole drill bit to make whole in wood and old biscuit tin and bits off an old caravan roof. But should make it easy to move. To join the copper to the wood i used heat resistant silcone. Not used in anger yet that will be this season on swarms.

 

[blackcloud]

Apart from the pair supplied with the GV I've made all my own caps,and deburr them to death with coarse grit broken sander belt.
I can (quickly!) take them out without gloves.The odd one will stick occasionally and needs a chamis leather to twist it out.

 

[pargyle]

Not as neat as you, I am a total bodger, no wood turning skills, just used 38mm whole cutter, 24mm flat bit whole cutter that made top pieces and another flat whole drill bit to make whole in wood and old biscuit tin and bits off an old caravan roof. But should make it easy to move. To join the copper to the wood i used heat resistant silcone. Not used in anger yet that will be this season on swarms.

I like it - rustic but does the job - I like your biscuit tin cntainer and the 'rack' for your caps ... and the general organisation ... really good, I have some old buscuit tins and bits of ally sheet and pop riveter ... now I just need and hour or two of spare time.

 

[jinks]

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61f0t8tps2L._AC_SY355_.jpg

My tool for handling hot gasvap parts

 

[Buzz Off]

My tool for handling hot GV parts

 

[victor meldrew]

My tool for handling hot GV partsView attachment 34984

Gland pliers Snap!

 

[blackcloud]

Why are you guys having trouble getting the caps off?