Winter Preperation

[VixyB]

Hi,

I have a few newbie questions on preparing for winter that I can't find a clear answer on. I wondered if you guys might be able to offer some views of how you prepare?

After I have completed the treatment for Varroa, I will look at the level of stores in the hive. They had a late start and then swarmed about a month ago, so I am assuming they might need some help. So in late September/early October, if they do need feeding, should that be with syrup? If so, for how long? Will they store it in the brood chamber or should I leave a super on for them to put it in?

Should I leave a fondant block in the hive over the winter, or judge whether they need one if they feel light later on?

Should I leave the floor open?

Do I need to insulate under the gabled roof or will they be okay as they are?

Because they aren't as strong as they could be, I just want to do the best for them and maximise their chances of survival. I only have one hive unfortunately.

Sorry for all the questions, but my local association aren't very helpful.

Vicky

 

[Davelin]

My method.

Assess stores in September, if needed feed.
As a rule they need 40lb of stores as a very rough guide. Each National frame will hold about 4lb, so a National brood box needs to be pretty full of stores.
You would in my opinion be better off with a super as well so you have room for brood and stores.

Feed 2:1 syrup (2lbs sugar: 1 pint water.) Feed this in as big a feeder as you have got Miller/Ashforth type)

Do not routinely put a block of fondant on, you may add one in late winter if needed.

I leave floor open, no tray.
I insulate on top of crown board with a sheet of celotex/kingspan type stuff.

This works for me, others will do things differently.

 

[VixyB]

Can you buy Celotex/Kingspan from B&Q or would I need to go to a builders merchant?

 

[VixyB]

Oh and when do you put the insulation in? After the Varroa treatment or a bit later on?

Thanks

 

[einsteinagogo]

Can you buy Celotex/Kingspan from B&Q or would I need to go to a builders merchant?

B&Q, but Wickes is cheaper! (and sell a small board, 4ft ish which fits easily in the car!)

 

[Davelin]

Oh and when do you put the insulation in? After the Varroa treatment or a bit later on?

Thanks

Yes after all treatment and feeding done and shut up for winter, unless it gets very cold.

Also put a strap round hive over winter to prevent anything blowing away in a storm.

 

[madasafish]

Can you buy Celotex/Kingspan from B&Q or would I need to go to a builders merchant?

Look on ebay..

Often 20% of the new price.. (note: "of" not "off")

 

[Erichalfbee]

My insulation is left on all year.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

 

[Dusty Rhodes]

My insulation is left on all year.

And I leave insulation on my bees all year.

Dusty

 

[itma]

... So in late September/early October, if they do need feeding, should that be with syrup? If so, for how long? Will they store it in the brood chamber or should I leave a super on for them to put it in?

Should I leave a fondant block in the hive over the winter, or judge whether they need one if they feel light later on?

Should I leave the floor open?

Do I need to insulate under the gabled roof or will they be okay as they are?

Because they aren't as strong as they could be, I just want to do the best for them and maximise their chances of survival. I only have one hive unfortunately. …

First thing to be clear on is that there are differing opinions out there.
So, its not so much what is 'right' as what works best for you.

A National brood box will hold enough stores for winter (20kg), but it needs to be pretty full. Hence some people like to use brood and a half.
My points there are that there must be no QX restricting where the Q can go. And that if the half is part of the brood box, then you should be using brood-frame-spacing, ideally hoffmans on rails (not wider spaced on castellations). I use deeper brood frames. 14x12 gives the capacity of brood and a half without any extra frames - they are just deeper.

Depending on your microclimate, you can feed strong ("2:1") sugar syrup until at least the start of November. After that the simple advice is to have some fondant to hand in case its needed - with a reasonable amount of stores in the hive, it shouldn't be needed until close to the end of winter (if at all).
I let my bees fill up on Ivy honey. And if they are still short, I give then commercial bee syrup, early Novemberish - but I'm in a mild spot close to the coast and sheltered from North winds.

I like insulation. Most of my hives are poly (so insulated all year). All get no-hole coverboards for the winter. The wooden hives and those with old (thin) poly roofs get a slab of Celotex above the coverboard (cut to fit inside a super or eke).
Did I mention that I like clear coverboards? You can look in without opening the hive, and so can get an idea of what they are up to without disturbing them.

And with the top draughtproof, the open mesh floor is left with the inspection board out. Warm air collects in the 'diving bell' of the hive. Condensation and debris can drop out.
Fit a mouseguard to the hive entrance when the Ivy pollen stops going in. Simplest is to remove the entrance reducer when you fit it - otherwise you need to be checking (with a chopstick, I suggest) that the usable holes haven't got bunged up by a dead bee!

Discover whether you might need to be protecting against Green Woodpeckers. This varies from area to area, but is usually only an issue when the weather is cold enough for the ground to be frozen.


And start practicing hefting now. This is feeling the weight of the hive to judge the amount of stores within.
Start now, while you are still inspecting, so you can see with your own eyes what the weight you have just felt looks like.
I have a luggage scale, but that isn't for everyone.


I'll leave it for someone else to say something about preventing isolation starvation!


/// Oh, and its worth a mention that excessive left-over stores present another beekeeper problem in Spring! (So don't overstuff them, more is not always better!

 

[Jamieb]

itma,

How do you deal with feeding (if the need arises) with no hole in the crownboard?

 

[Arfermo]

My insulation is left on all year.

Never use it other than when moving nucs to full BB. Most local bees are acclimatised to UK so cannot see the need.

 

[Erichalfbee]

itma,

How do you deal with feeding (if the need arises) with no hole in the crownboard?

You substitute the crown board with a feeder board

 

[itma]

itma,

How do you deal with feeding (if the need arises) with no hole in the crownboard?

If the need arises during the winter, it would be for fondant.
And to make that most accessible to the bees, whatever frame(s) they may be clustered on, I put a thin sheet of fondant under the coverboard - crossing as many as possible (if not all) frames.

I think that putting fondant above a feeder-board hole makes it less accessible - the bees have to come to the hole and then go up.
That's my call. Plenty others put an upside-down tub of fondant over a hole and usually get away with it.
I just think that under the coverboard is better. If large quantities of fondant are going to be needed, an eke can be used to provide more topspace.

Fondant is best wrapped in clingfilm and slashed when it is put onto the hive - that prevents it drying out and becoming near-impossible for the bees to access quickly and easily whatever the weather.

 

[Jamieb]

Thanks, I usually opt for the tub over the feeder hole but interesting to hear your thoughts regarding placing it straight on the frames. The only worry I would have is lifting the coverboard and letting out all the heat?

 

[itma]

... The only worry I would have is lifting the coverboard and letting out all the heat?

Because air carries very little heat (low specific heat), you aren't letting much out (let alone all), particularly if you don't hang about. Its a job that takes seconds - quite literally.


/// Nevertheless, you shouldn't be opening up un-necessarily in Winter. So, it comes down to definitions of necessity!

 

[pargyle]

itma,

How do you deal with feeding (if the need arises) with no hole in the crownboard?

You can easily have a dual purpose crown board ... just cut a circular hole in the crown board the size of the hole in the base of your rapid feeder. Keep the circular section you have cut out and glue it to a square of the same material the crown board is made of (plywood or polycarbonate - I prefer the latter) and place it over the hole when you are not feeding them. The bees will rapidly propolise it in place but you have an access hole in waiting to put a feeder on without cracking the crown board. A bigger hole to allow fondant to be placed on the top of the frames is an easy option.

If you have a slab of insulation on top of the crownboard and are quick with putting the fondant or the feeder on you will hardly lose any heat.

Works for me:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/99514363@N06/sets/72157634865981506/

 

[Tremyfro]

You can easily have a dual purpose crown board ... just cut a circular hole in the crown board the size of the hole in the base of your rapid feeder. Keep the circular section you have cut out and glue it to a square of the same material the crown board is made of (plywood or polycarbonate - I prefer the latter) and place it over the hole when you are not feeding them. The bees will rapidly propolise it in place but you have an access hole in waiting to put a feeder on without cracking the crown board. A bigger hole to allow fondant to be placed on the top of the frames is an easy option.

If you have a slab of insulation on top of the crownboard and are quick with putting the fondant or the feeder on you will hardly lose any heat.

Works for me:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/99514363@N06/sets/72157634865981506/

Hey P.....that is a great hive. Did you build it yourself? Love all the knick knacks you added. Makes other hives look boring. A real Des Res!

 

[B Special]

I have one super on with no honey in it. Should I remove it and when should I do this ?