Which wood preservative to use?

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Skylark

New Bee
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Bakewell
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National
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Hello
I have a flat pack hive ready to build and wonder which preservative/woodstain to use. I have Sadolin advanced one coat woodstain ready to go on. There is nothing on the label to say good or bad for insects/bees.
Also I assume its more important what on the inside wood as its next to the bees and they crawl on it and will get any fumes. Although by the time I stock the hive with bees next year there surely wont be any fumes.
Thanks
bee-smillie
 
I have one cedar wood hive which I was thinking of painting as well, and the flat pack was from Thornes sale , I think its cedar but not 100%, it doesnt say on the website, might be softwood.
 
Hello
I have a flat pack hive ready to build and wonder which preservative/woodstain to use. Although by the time I stock the hive with bees next year there surely wont be any fumes.

bee-smillie

The fumes given off are the solvent when it evaporates, the nasties are left behind in the wood , that's how it works. :banghead:

Bees will lick the outside clean, so equally important to chose carefully!!
:nature-smiley-014::nature-smiley-014::nature-smiley-014:
 
I think its cedar but not 100%, it doesnt say on the website, might be softwood.

Definitely a softwood if it is cedar!
 
Raw linseed oil for outside of boxes and floor. For roof and stands yacht varnish.
nothing inside
 
I use good for wood, not sure where it is from though.
 
I am with Hedgerow Pete.

Use the cheapest fence paint you can find that does not offend your eyes.

It is mainly finely ground rust and some wax - hence the colour. It stops the rain from soaking in and lets the moisture out. Repaint when the rain starts to soak in.

Cheap means no weird biocidal preservatives - Red Cedar is perfectly capable of producing it's own, that's why it lasts so long.

And yes, my understanding is that Th***ns buy so much Cedar that most seconds are the bits with knots in exactly the wrong place - you know what I mean!
 
I have one cedar wood hive which I was thinking of painting as well, and the flat pack was from Th**nes sale , I think its cedar but not 100%, it doesnt say on the website, might be softwood.

Big T's flat packs are always cedar, in one form or another
 
Hive treatment

I am with Hedgerow Pete.

Use the cheapest fence paint you can find that does not offend your eyes.

It is mainly finely ground rust and some wax - hence the colour. It stops the rain from soaking in and lets the moisture out. Repaint when the rain starts to soak in.

Cheap means no weird biocidal preservatives - Red Cedar is perfectly capable of producing it's own, that's why it lasts so long.

And yes, my understanding is that Th***ns buy so much Cedar that most seconds are the bits with knots in exactly the wrong place - you know what I mean!
just for my two pennyworth,
I use Ducksback its cheap drys quickly ive just treated some hives a few weeks ago, and thats with the bees inside, and there still alive (so thats a bonus!!) I have in the recent past also treated the hives first with cuprinol clear and then the Ducksback.

Dave W
 
What about Rapeseed oil or any of the other non petrochemical derived oils?Maize oil etc ????????????????????/

Rapeseed and maize oil can be prone to emulsifying, walnut oil (made from walnuts) is far too light. Teak oil and linseed oil will when applied to wood, oxidise at the surface giving an almost varnish like finish which is semi-permeable which allows the wood to maintain it's natural moisture levels. Teak oil is better for preserving wood, but the high odour levels, which can last for a long time, make it less desirable for hives. Linseed oil is the best compromise, but do not apply too much at once late in the year as hungry mice are attracted to it and will gnaw on the wood where it has not soaked fully into the wood.

Angus:conehead:
 
You lot are confusing me! I thought it wasn't necessary to paint or treat with oil a cedar hive. Is it? A definitive answer please!
 
You lot are confusing me! I thought it wasn't necessary to paint or treat with oil a cedar hive. Is it? A definitive answer please!

You do not have to treat a cedar hive for the first year or 2.
After 12 months though, the cedar will start to bleach and dry at the surface.
A light wipe over with linseed oil will help to preserve both the look and condition of the wood. It also removes a lot of fine dirt particles which also keep the hive looking good.

Basically applying linseed oil replaces the natural oils which are lost with time and weather.

If you want anything simpler buy a poly hive lol.

I hope this helps.

Angus:grouphug:
 

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