What did you do in the 'workshop' today

[Garry R]

I had two long hives but they seem to be breeding as the photos show. Another week and it will be finished but waiting for STB correx sheets (are deliveries slow?). This is 100% pallet construction except the floor and the mesh. I came across a skip two doors down from me and it was full of sheets of 50mm polystyrene - about 30sq metres which I retrieved. Loads left if I go burrowing in the skip again but storage space is going to beat me. It was clean underfloor insulation and despite my raid there is tons left. They are replacing it with Celotex before re-tiling the floor so got some really clean moisture resistant chipboard as well. Must be a couple of hundred quids worth of stuff being chucked out. Scandalous! But the bees are going to have new roofs.

Just about finished now - only the roof cover to go on after another coat of Barretine preservative.

 

[MillMeadow]

Just about finished now - only the roof cover to go on after another coat of Barretine preservative.

How do you find that table saw please Gary? I was looking at getting one of that brand but havn't pulled the trigger for fear of getting something that wouldn't last.

 

[JamezF]

How do you find that table saw please Gary?

There appear to be four or five different versions of the same basic Evolution saw with differing features depending on how much you're prepared to pay. Some have fences that only lock at the front, some lock at both front and back. Some have fixed tables, others have tables that slide out on either just the right, or both the right and left. Some have a fixed stand, others a folding trolley. I don't think they all have the sliding mitre saw section in the table and not all have the dust extractor hose for the blade guard, though it seems common for people to block the inlet for the hose and remove the blade guard as most of the time it just gets in the way anyhow. I think some models have a pressed steel table rather than a cast table.

I've had the R255PTS version from Screwfix for a shade under a year now and whilst it's not perfect, I'd say it's a fair saw for the money. Sufficiently good in fact that when my compound mitre saw died after twenty years of abuse I bought the Evolution equivalent to replace it. I use the table saw quite a bit and it still works as well as it did when new.

The niggles I've found are:

The dust extraction is poor, even with a decent vacuum. Most of the sawdust ends up on the floor under the saw. I know some people have fixed this by removing the existing dust extraction shroud, fitting a solid base to the underside of the saw body and fitting a dust extraction take-off into that.

The blade wobbles (probably the entire motor, actually) when the power is switched on. I fitted a soft start unit bought on ebay for about £15 (I think) that calmed the problem down a lot. I don't know why they didn't fit one in the first place. The mitre saw has soft start. I had some crimp-on spade connectors that meant the entire modification could be done without soldering or cutting wires.

The throat plate doesn't fit flush with the rest of the table at the front on mine. For 90° cuts I've made a replacement zero-clearance throat plate from ply that fits properly. The standard throat plate is also a bit too flexible.

Even though the fence locks at both ends it's still possible to get it slightly off square if you're not careful.

The mitre attachment is a bit cheap and nasty. I made a crosscut sled that works better if I just want to cut 90° angles. I've read that some people find the sliding table section for cutting mitres has some play, but I've not had a problem with mine. That may be because mostly I use the sled. I might be tempted to argue that a crosscut sled is so useful that you'll want to make one anyhow.

Some people say they've had examples where the table isn't flat, but mine seems to be ok.

The arbor is 1" rather than 30mm (I believe the latter is much more common). Blades sometimes come with spacers to allow them to be used on either, but they're fairly easily to get hold of separately.

The off switch can be a bit awkward to find by touch. I've 3d-printed a cover (though I've not fitted it yet) that allows the switch to be operated fairly easily with any convenient part of one's anatomy.

You do need to check it's all square once assembled as there's no guarantee it's spot on as delivered.

That might seem like a long list, but when I was looking even saws costing a couple of hundred pounds more still had quite a few issues mentioned in reviews so I'm not unhappy with my purchase.

Personally I'd avoid anything with a pressed steel main table and I really don't like the fences that only lock at one end (there's one on our bandsaw and it's a pain in the backside, frankly). The right hand extending table section is useful for cutting larger sheet material, the left hand one less so (and it doesn't extend that far anyhow). The factory blade is something of an animal, but a bit coarse. Lots of people seem to recommend Saxton blades for something finer. The folding trolley base is handy if you don't have the space to leave the table set up or need to move it around. Otherwise I'd not bother with it because it takes up a fair bit of space in use.

The saw seems to have quite a following on YouTube and there are lots of videos on getting it set up properly and improving how it works.

James

 

[Garry R]

How do you find that table saw please Gary? I was looking at getting one of that brand but havn't pulled the trigger for fear of getting something that wouldn't last.

Thanks James for that comprehensive review and it's pretty much my finding too. This is my second one, After about 8 months for some reason I was unable to raise or lower the blade fully so it went back and because it was bought through Amazon I got a full cash refund with no problem. However I liked it enough to buy another. The problem with this one is that the blade and the river do not align properly (by a fraction) and I am fiddling to get that sorted - it's much better now. James saying to check squareness is spot on. I was having to cut 7cm deep timber to make the outside of the hive from the planks I cut and it managed those well, so all in all I am pretty pleased with the cutting. As regards the dust extraction I use a Henry hoover and that works OK but there is sawdust on the floor as well - about 5% at a guess. It was under £200 so good value for the cash.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

The Haynes Car maintenance manuals in the early days were a bit like that ...

I well remember the instruction 'Undo set bolts and withdraw halfshaft' when I broke the half shaft on my 1958 Austin Healey - Three days with a slide hammer, the car anchored to the garage wall to stop it moving and liberal applications of penetrating oil and heat plus an even bigger slide hammer borrowed from the local steelworks and more sweat than I've ever experienced before or since and it finally gave up and came out .... getting the broken end out - well, that's another story !

When I had the Landy Series III I found (and I am definitely in the Luddite camp when it comes to motor mechanics) that the official LR workshop manuals were much easier to follow and understand than the Haynes manuals

 

[pargyle]

There appear to be four or five different versions of the same basic Evolution saw with differing features depending on how much you're prepared to pay. Some have fences that only lock at the front, some lock at both front and back. Some have fixed tables, others have tables that slide out on either just the right, or both the right and left. Some have a fixed stand, others a folding trolley. I don't think they all have the sliding mitre saw section in the table and not all have the dust extractor hose for the blade guard, though it seems common for people to block the inlet for the hose and remove the blade guard as most of the time it just gets in the way anyhow. I think some models have a pressed steel table rather than a cast table.

I've had the R255PTS version from Screwfix for a shade under a year now and whilst it's not perfect, I'd say it's a fair saw for the money. Sufficiently good in fact that when my compound mitre saw died after twenty years of abuse I bought the Evolution equivalent to replace it. I use the table saw quite a bit and it still works as well as it did when new.

The niggles I've found are:

The dust extraction is poor, even with a decent vacuum. Most of the sawdust ends up on the floor under the saw. I know some people have fixed this by removing the existing dust extraction shroud, fitting a solid base to the underside of the saw body and fitting a dust extraction take-off into that.

The blade wobbles (probably the entire motor, actually) when the power is switched on. I fitted a soft start unit bought on ebay for about £15 (I think) that calmed the problem down a lot. I don't know why they didn't fit one in the first place. The mitre saw has soft start. I had some crimp-on spade connectors that meant the entire modification could be done without soldering or cutting wires.

The throat plate doesn't fit flush with the rest of the table at the front on mine. For 90° cuts I've made a replacement zero-clearance throat plate from ply that fits properly. The standard throat plate is also a bit too flexible.

Even though the fence locks at both ends it's still possible to get it slightly off square if you're not careful.

The mitre attachment is a bit cheap and nasty. I made a crosscut sled that works better if I just want to cut 90° angles. I've read that some people find the sliding table section for cutting mitres has some play, but I've not had a problem with mine. That may be because mostly I use the sled. I might be tempted to argue that a crosscut sled is so useful that you'll want to make one anyhow.

Some people say they've had examples where the table isn't flat, but mine seems to be ok.

The arbor is 1" rather than 30mm (I believe the latter is much more common). Blades sometimes come with spacers to allow them to be used on either, but they're fairly easily to get hold of separately.

The off switch can be a bit awkward to find by touch. I've 3d-printed a cover (though I've not fitted it yet) that allows the switch to be operated fairly easily with any convenient part of one's anatomy.

You do need to check it's all square once assembled as there's no guarantee it's spot on as delivered.

That might seem like a long list, but when I was looking even saws costing a couple of hundred pounds more still had quite a few issues mentioned in reviews so I'm not unhappy with my purchase.

Personally I'd avoid anything with a pressed steel main table and I really don't like the fences that only lock at one end (there's one on our bandsaw and it's a pain in the backside, frankly). The right hand extending table section is useful for cutting larger sheet material, the left hand one less so (and it doesn't extend that far anyhow). The factory blade is something of an animal, but a bit coarse. Lots of people seem to recommend Saxton blades for something finer. The folding trolley base is handy if you don't have the space to leave the table set up or need to move it around. Otherwise I'd not bother with it because it takes up a fair bit of space in use.

The saw seems to have quite a following on YouTube and there are lots of videos on getting it set up properly and improving how it works.

James

I hate to say it but that's the problem with modern budget engineering ... Most of my woodworking machines are nearly as old as I am ! But ... they were built with proper frames, very little (if any on some) plastic and are still going strong. I think the youngest bit of kit I have is my Elektra Beckum table saw .. it has a pressed steel table with a sliding mitre, the basic table is 700 x 800 and although the fence is only secured at one end it's such a good securing mechanism that it will cut true down to almost veneeer size. MIne cost £60 a good few years ago but is still going strong with the original blade. They are still made by Metabo but the quality is not what it was ... but you can pick them up for around £100 fairly regularly... there's one on ebay at present:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185744062940?hash=item2b3f3579dc:g:XAIAAOSwBuFjyWf5

 

[MillMeadow]

@ James, Gary and Pargyle
Thanks a lot , that's helped me make up my mind.

I had heard broadly similar things online but I place much more weight on hearing from folk who are real and know can operate the tool and what to reasonably demand from it in terms of performance.

I'll continue my search for a 2nd hand trade or workshop one and have a proper think about where I can find a permanent spot for it.

Appreciate the helpful responses.

 

[JamezF]

I hate to say it but that's the problem with modern budget engineering

I can't disagree with this. I would have bought a used older model and the one linked in your post looks very tidy. Unfortunately others often look quite abused so unless it's possible to find one for sale locally it can be a bit of a gamble. I saw one on ebay when I was in the market that looked as though it had been used as a welder's bench when it wasn't needed for woodwork

James

 

[Garry R]

I can't disagree with this. I would have bought a used older model and the one linked in your post looks very tidy. Unfortunately others often look quite abused so unless it's possible to find one for sale locally it can be a bit of a gamble. I saw one on ebay when I was in the market that looked as though it had been used as a welder's bench when it wasn't needed for woodwork

James

A sort of "cut and paste" machine then!!

 

[JamezF]

A sort of "cut and paste" machine then!!

Yes

James

 

[pargyle]

I can't disagree with this. I would have bought a used older model and the one linked in your post looks very tidy. Unfortunately others often look quite abused so unless it's possible to find one for sale locally it can be a bit of a gamble. I saw one on ebay when I was in the market that looked as though it had been used as a welder's bench when it wasn't needed for woodwork

James

Yes ... you do sometimes have to wait a bit and travel a bit to get the one you really want ...I picked up my Startite Inca planer/thicknesser from a bloke in Essex ... but, it was £50 had been painted with red lead paint and didn't look like it had been cleaned in years .... but .. the Swiss engineering underneath was sound and after a really good fettling, the paint removed and some proper paint ... it's a gem which I could sell tomorrow for nearer £300 ! It's another machine from the 1960's or 70's but will outlast me for sure. There's no serious guards on it and it scares me half to death but ... works a treat.

 

[Parsonage Bees]

I posted here a picture of the Startrite table saw I was using. Response was that it was a good one. Now up for sale at auction. It's 3 phase, cast iron bed so not very useful for most but here's a link.

 

[pargyle]

I posted here a picture of the Startrite table saw I was using. Response was that it was a good one. Now up for sale at auction. It's 3 phase, cast iron bed so not very useful for most but here's a link.

View attachment 35042

Classic bit of kit .... not impossible to convert to 220/240 ... it would go for more if it was but a 110v transformer will only cost £40 and you have a machine that will outlive most of us on here .., wish Skeggie was a bit nearer or I'd be a player for it and sell my Elektra Beckum. Those Startrite machines were built to last ...

 

[pargyle]

MInd you ... I prefer these up for sale by the same company... His and Hers Patrol boats for less than a terraced house on the Costa del Fareham ... not sure 'er indoors would agree though ...

https://www.ramco.co.uk/sales

 

[Parsonage Bees]

Classic bit of kit .... not impossible to convert to 220/240 ... it would go for more if it was but a 110v transformer will only cost £40 and you have a machine that will outlive most of us on here .., wish Skeggie was a bit nearer or I'd be a player for it and sell my Elektra Beckum. Those Startrite machines were built to last ...

Don't understand electrics. You mention a transformer? Could you just replace the motor? How much would that cost?

The fence is poor. But serviceable. Runners are bent. I'd want to replace it. The riving knife needs some adjustment.
It's not had heavy use. As I mentioned before it was mainly used to cut 15mm ply into treads for workshop steps. Maybe once a week, if that. Probably had more use making floors, crownboards, nucs, stands, etc in the last couple of years.
Looks like it got wet and the bed has surface rust. Hope it didn't get into the electrics. #pillocks#

It's being sold as my brother-in-law is closing his business. I don't have a workshop but I might buy it back in the hope one day I might.

. . . Ben

 

[Moobee]

Accumulated a load of stuff when I did my first fair at Christmas and only realised what a mess my beeshed was when I tripped over most of it putting some sales stuff away.
Spent the afternoon putting up extra shelving to get all the display crates, paper bags, signs and boxes of paraphernalia off the floor.

 

[Garry R]

Had a bit of fun making foundation today - 25 done so far so getting prepared for springtime. Reckon to need about 50 sheets for splits/replacements and any swarms. Will wire it when the weather warms a little and the wax is less brittle.

 

[Sutty]

Had a bit of fun making foundation today - 25 done so far so getting prepared for springtime. Reckon to need about 50 sheets for splits/replacements and any swarms. Will wire it when the weather warms a little and the wax is less brittle.

Looks good!
What mould did you use?

 

[Garry R]

Looks good!
What mould did you use?

The mould I make myself - have used it for about 6 years now. Wax is thicker than commercially produced but the bees love it - easy to wire too. Big advantage is you use your own wax so you know where it comes from - think adulterated .................

 

[Sutty]

The mould I make myself - have used it for about 6 years now. Wax is thicker than commercially produced but the bees love it - easy to wire too. Big advantage is you use your own wax so you know where it comes from - think adulterated .................

Could you elaborate on how you made the mould? Or if you already have, point me in the right direction?