What did you do in the 'workshop' today

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Candle making has been going on. We are wondering how cost effective it actually is though. Without loads of moulds, it takes a long time to produce candles, that won't sell for that much, considering. We are looking at sending them out as Christmas presents instead. Their burn time is very good......better than non beeswax! I think that just selling blocks of wax and furniture polish is a far better route to take in the future. View attachment 23007

That's the problem with home crafting, you generally only make the cost of the materials back and can't charge much for the labour. Depending on your market about all you can do is pitch the candles as a quality / premium product, emphasises the smell, the burn length, how much better they are than the cheapo paraffin wax ones that you get in the supermarket. You could also mention it's a natural wax rather than a fossil fuel variant. A quicker way to make sale candles is to roll them from sheets. You can also do smaller sample ones by cutting the sheet into strips so you're in effect making rolled tealights, just without the metal case.
 
That's the problem with home crafting, you generally only make the cost of the materials back and can't charge much for the labour. Depending on your market about all you can do is pitch the candles as a quality / premium product, emphasises the smell, the burn length, how much better they are than the cheapo paraffin wax ones that you get in the supermarket. You could also mention it's a natural wax rather than a fossil fuel variant. A quicker way to make sale candles is to roll them from sheets. You can also do smaller sample ones by cutting the sheet into strips so you're in effect making rolled tealights, just without the metal case.
You are right on all fronts. Beeswax candles are far far superior and I would market them in that way, if I was to sell them! Funnily enough, I was talking about 'rolling candles' with my partner only the other day. After I picked myself up off the floor .....She had misunderstood.....and regressed back to her kick-boxer mode for a moment :willy_nilly: she had to agree that it was easier. We will experiment more. With the candle-making as well! :devilish:
 
More wax related stuff today. I've been cleaning up super frames, that never survived the attentions me uncapping them and the extractor. It's not that pleasant. I now wish I had a wax-melter to do it, like I saw mentioned on here a while back. Not enough room or money for such luxuries here though! I have about thirty left to do. Then the wax will have to be melted....cleaned....cleaned some more and even more......then....who knows! I think polish will be more profitable than any candles, judging by prices on the 'Tinterweb.'
 
Used my wax steam melter today. Made it from a 75mm deep box with insulated bottom lined with an aluminium skin. The steam is introduced in to this box and the wax runs out via a hole in the base. Above this is a filter made from a Varroa mess then another made from a QX. The wax or a box of frames can be placed on top of the QX
 

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Another 12 boxes almost done..... Salvaged timber - Making a plan....
 

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A few ready for painting.....
Still short about 16 for 1st supers on new colonies / cut outs / trap outs...
Not the neatest construction but gets the job done.... My opinion about this whole bee thing is it's all about animal husbandry....
Give them what they need and they will thrive......
20201122_175017.jpg
 
A few ready for painting.....
Still short about 16 for 1st supers on new colonies / cut outs / trap outs...
Not the neatest construction but gets the job done.... My opinion about this whole bee thing is it's all about animal husbandry....
Give them what they need and they will thrive......
View attachment 23097

Looks good, sounds ok. Managing bees is very much about adopting sensible methods and having a continuous pollen and nectar supply available from spring to autum, technical factors like beehive quality help too. :)
 
I have a Paynes 6 frame nuc that I have converted to a 8 frame by removing the feeder which is fine during the summer when you don't need to feed BUT this nuc is still on the light side so I have been feeding fondant in an extension but I feel that's a large volume of air for the bees to heat. So I have made a feeder out of PIR above a crown board which they should be able to keep warm much easier.

I made a new crown board from correx and cut a 28mm hole in it using heated copper pipe.

Then I made the eke from 25mm PIR with a 16mm downstand at the edge and sealed with Ali tape. This eke has a rectangular hole cut in it for the fondant with a thin plastic hinged sheet to keep the recess sealed when removing the roof.

I then placed 2x8mm sheets of expanded poly sheet to fill the void under the roof.

Then placed the original roof on top!

Now I just need a warm day to pop it on the hive!
 

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I have a Paynes 6 frame nuc that I have converted to a 8 frame by removing the feeder which is fine during the summer when you don't need to feed BUT this nuc is still on the light side so I have been feeding fondant in an extension but I feel that's a large volume of air for the bees to heat. So I have made a feeder out of PIR above a crown board which they should be able to keep warm much easier.

I made a new crown board from correx and cut a 28mm hole in it using heated copper pipe.

Then I made the eke from 25mm PIR with a 16mm downstand at the edge and sealed with Ali tape. This eke has a rectangular hole cut in it for the fondant with a thin plastic hinged sheet to keep the recess sealed when removing the roof.

I then placed 2x8mm sheets of expanded poly sheet to fill the void under the roof.

Then placed the original roof on top!

Now I just need a warm day to pop it on the hive!
Very creative... my Paynes Poly Nucs have a Nuc super as the crownboard. I set a clear polycarbonate sheet in the bottom of it to give me top bee space and a central feeder hole (covered when not in use) to allow a feeder to go in there - I use a shallow nuc feeder and there is then sufficient room for a slab of 50mm Kingspan on top of the feeder and under the standard roof. I can put an inverted tub of fondant over the hole or spread on top of the bars if needed.
 

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I use a 14x12 eke to accommodate either a round rapid feeder or insulation. That way I keep the advantage of that lip which keeps water out and warmth in
Exactly... I like the paynes nucs for lots of reasons and that lip is one if them ... very snug - I have a colony over wintering in one and another that probably should be ....
 
Very creative... my Paynes Poly Nucs have a Nuc super as the crownboard. I set a clear polycarbonate sheet in the bottom of it to give me top bee space and a central feeder hole (covered when not in use) to allow a feeder to go in there - I use a shallow nuc feeder and there is then sufficient room for a slab of 50mm Kingspan on top of the feeder and under the standard roof. I can put an inverted tub of fondant over the hole or spread on top of the bars if needed.
That was my initial thought but I needed the extension/eke to get the insulation to fit snugly and that was already on the nuc. When I swap them I will then do what you have done!
 
Adapted a couple of Abelo supers to take castellations.
 
I’ve done all my Swienty supers
I run top space so the runners simply go in as normal with castellations cut in them
I don’t think there is a particular advantage using either top or bottom spaced, as long as you don’t mix them .
 
Perceived or theoretical advantage ?
Actual ! A bee space is a bee space !
some people say a top bee space avoids crushing bees when replacing boxes !
replacing a top bee space box with bees hanging off the bottom of the frames requires care as a lot of bees require time to disperse to avoid being squashed .
crown boards need to be flush to avoid creating a double bee space .
you pays your money and you takes your pick 😎
 
I’ve done all my Swienty supers
I run top space so the runners simply go in as normal with castellations cut in them
I just drilled and glued some small rawl plugs into the poly and the screwed in the castellations, I didn't need to cut them in.
 

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