Varrox question

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I'm too stupid to figure out a "purification " method and CERTAINLY too stupid to write it down. Daft.
ADD Good news is, being licenced, it works in tiny quantities.
 
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If I may digress a little... I had a look at the varrox instructions on Thornes site and it says that a 12v car battery, 40Ah should be used. A beekeeper I know who uses a varrox says that I should get a "leisure" battery because of the "deep cycling". Can anyone offer any advice, please? Thanks. (Apologies for hijacking).
 
I think it's because leisure batteries are designed to be regularly discharged whereas a car battery produces a large amount of current for a short period....ie starting the car.
I'm sure somebody else with a better answer will come along soon.
 
If I may digress a little... I had a look at the varrox instructions on Thornes site and it says that a 12v car battery, 40Ah should be used. A beekeeper I know who uses a varrox says that I should get a "leisure" battery because of the "deep cycling". Can anyone offer any advice, please? Thanks. (Apologies for hijacking).

Not a hijack compared to me above! A Varrox is 150W = 12.5A at 12V. For 2.5 mins per hive (max, as sort of discussed above) that's 0.52Ah. So if you have 40 hives, yes, but otherwise you shouldn't be taxing an average car battery. Some on here use m/c batteries for portability.
 
Thank you both, for your replies.

TLTB, you suggest that 40 stocks would be taxing an average car battery. How about 20 - 25? and PS, if I may ask, what strength would you suggest an average car battery is? Thanks

Sorry for my ignorance, but I tried getting my head around the discussion on this thread and got very lost. http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=35764&highlight=battery

Oh, and I meant to ask if you can get a motorcycle battery of the correct strength - for portability - I have quite a long walk if the field is too fragile!
 
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I tend to borrow one from our old Ford Fiesta. Small car, obv. If I look on Halfords the replacements go from 41 to 50Ah depending on grade. So I am pretty comfortable that 40Ah is a small car battery. I based the "40 hives" on a 50% cycle. That is arguably more than is healthy, but it's twice a year so I do not see serious harm. 20 hives, and about 25% cycle, would surely be OK.

"Leisure batteries" are a compromise between starter and deep cycle, and so undoubtedly are not going to mind the cycle but you can't filch them from your son's wheels...

I don't know about motorcycle batteries, but some on here can pipe up or it's an easy Google in terms of Ah, cycling ability etc.
 
I bought a 2 year old battery from Gumtree £10..

If it last two years, that's all I want before I buy another... Cheaper than a £40 new one with a 4 year life..
 
I think it's because leisure batteries are designed to be regularly discharged whereas a car battery produces a large amount of current for a short period....ie starting the car.
I'm sure somebody else with a better answer will come along soon.

I use a leasure battery for exactly the reason you state.
 
Sublimox vaporiser

For anyone who might be interested in an alternative to Varrox, I splashed out and bought a Sublimox - pricey (around £300), but in my opinion much quicker and easier to use than the varrox. The first time I treated a took along a generator, but Maplin do good inverters - the bumph suggests a 300w one should be sufficient...I bought 600w to be safe, and after an hour of use, the fan hadn't even started to turn, so very comfortably within its limits.

I got mine from Icko in France, but I think Thomas and a few others sell them too. Made in Italy, and unlike 80s Italian motorbikes, the electrics seem to be very good.

Advantages of Sublimox (apart from sheer speed) are:

1) the heat isn't in the hive - vapour is put in by a small copper tube, so there is no scorching damage to frames, bees etc.

2) It isn't necessary to cool it down between hives, as the pod of crystals is below the heat plate until insertion when the whole instrument is turned upside down - the crystals then fall onto the plate and 2g of OA are vaporised in about 30 seconds.

3) The bit to shove in the hive is about 8mm diameter, so much less fiddling around and scorching entrance foam etc.


I have drilled a hole in the side of the floor of each of my hives just big enough to get the copper pipe in (frames are "cold way"). I put in a bit of thin ply to cover the ventilated floor, bung the entrance with a foam strip, insert the pipe and it is done.

Without rushing and on my own, it averages about 2 mins to treat each hive. With an assistant, this would easily come down to 1 minute.


A sublimox would be overkill for just a few hives, but if you have 20 or 30 plus, I reckon it is a good investment.
 
I tested the heating time in the open to see how long it takes to sublimate the
2g. It takes 3'40" with the car battery that I have to get through all of the 2g and hence the 3'45". I have 2 types of floors, from different suppliers. 1 I have to jack up the front of the hive just to get the varrox under, the other I can just slide the varrox in without jacking up the front of the hive. Both have slide in floors under the mesh with less space between the mesh and the slide in floor than the height of the varrox. So maybe I shall have to modify a slide in floor by cutting a hole in it and mount the varrox below that. Anyway thanks for your comments.

Can't you jack the hive with poor clearance with a 3 sided eke? Screwed onto the underside of the OMF also possible for future use. Of course one needs a sheet of metal underneath the floor on which to place the sublimating tool and foam to stuff in the gap at the rear to keep the particles within the hive. No good trying to suspend it in mid-air and flood the air with the oxalic particles is it!!!
Afternote edit: Hadn't seen Echichalfbees almost identical post. Precisely same suggestion from two great minds!!!
 
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Further to Arfermo's suggestions all floors now fitted with Ekes below the omf. 1 old pc cover cut down to make nice solid metal slide in floor. A good 3" clearance now available below bottom of bottom box and varrox.

Did some further testing of required "power on" time to sublimate the 2g of OA, and have found I need only 2'30" plus a further 1' of residual heat for the OA to sublimate totally.

So thanks all for your help. Hopefully thats an end to scorched frames and melted wax!
 
Further to Arfermo's suggestions all floors now fitted with Ekes below the omf. 1 old pc cover cut down to make nice solid metal slide in floor. A good 3" clearance now available below bottom of bottom box and varrox. Did some further testing of required "power on" time to sublimate the 2g of OA, and have found I need only 2'30" plus a further 1' of residual heat for the OA to sublimate totally.
So thanks all for your help. Hopefully thats an end to scorched frames and melted wax!

God forbid. Some on this forum will have a fit if they don't add something more just to confuse.
 

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