Transferring from Nuc given current weather

[RogerJ]

Hi All - just got my first Nucleus on Sunday (after procrastinating for several years) and waiting to transfer to the hive. As the weather was fairly diabolical yesterday thought it best to wait for some improvement - bees were flying when I first opened up the Nucleus but no visible activity at present (presumably due to the poor weather). So my question is that as the weather is supposed to get better this afternoon should I transfer them then or wait even later in the week when it is supposed to improve even more? The hive location is fairly sheltered from the wind and it definitely feels warmer today compared with yesterday.

Thanks.

 

[B+.]

as the weather is supposed to get better this afternoon should I transfer them then or wait even later in the week when it is supposed to improve even more?

I should get the job done as soon as you get the opportunity to.

 

[Amari]

Welcome to the craft! Probably best to transfer when it is fairly warm. I assume the nuc is adjacent to the hive - if the nuc is more than a couple of feet from the hive the bees after transfer might not find the new location. We are entering the 'June gap' of usually reduced nectar availability so best to feed some sugar syrup for a couple of weeks - ideally via a contact feeder rather than one where the bees need to climb up through a slot or tunnel

 

[TryingToLetThemBee]

Hold the phone! Some questions before answers. Do you know that they are ready to go into a hive? It's a slightly odd time: late for an over-wintered nuc and possibly early (depending) for a this-year one. So, was it over-wintered or made up this year? I suspect the latter. Is it from an artifical swarm? How many frames was it started on and when? How many frames of brood and of stores are there now? Is it bursting with bees? Are they building brace-comb on top of the frames? Have you checked for queen cells?

 

[RogerJ]

Hi TryingToLetThemBe - The supplier of the Nucleus reckoned they were ready to go (not an over-wintered Nucleus and made up this year with a new queen) - I haven't opened them up apart from the small entrance hole so can't say what the brood and stores quantity is. It is a 5 frame nucleus.

Thanks all for your advice and input.

 

[Travelator]

My advice would be to have your empty hive ready when you inspect the nucleus, and decide whether or not to transfer based on what you see.

 

[Erichalfbee]

If all frames are drawn and outside ones in use; brood/stores then put them into your full size hive in the order they are in ,add a frame of foundation each side and dummy down the rest of the space.
Add foundation as they draw the frames out.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

If it's a made up nuc I wonder if the queen has her own bees in there yet or just sitting on her brood (depends how reputable the supplier is i suppose) anyway, doubt there's a massive hurry to get them transferred just wait for a decent day, inspect and go from there. No need to open up in the cold/rain/wind and cause more damage than good

 

[itma]

... I assume the nuc is adjacent to the hive - if the nuc is more than a couple of feet from the hive the bees after transfer might not find the new location.

Ummm ...
The nuc should already be on the hive's designated spot.
Begin the transfer by moving the nuc box to the side and replacing it with the full hive, then move the frames, shake in the last of the bees before closing up and taking the empty nuc box out of sight.
There should be no "new location" ... !

We are entering the 'June gap' of usually reduced nectar availability so best to feed some sugar syrup for a couple of weeks - ideally via a contact feeder rather than one where the bees need to climb up through a slot or tunnel

The difficulty of bees accessing a 'rapid feeder' is regularly overdone. A dribble of syrup for the bees to follow quickly teaches them how to use it.
However, the difficulty of a 'contact feeder' for a new beek needs to be given greater recognition. It needs to be removed for its level to be checked (and to be refilled). And removing it, after being propolised down, all too frequently means a flood of syrup for the unsuspecting new beek, never mind the squashed bees when the thing is replaced.
In contrast, a rapid feeder can be checked and refilled without removing the feeder or releasing bees. It is so much simpler for the novice, even if theoretically it might not be absolutely optimal for the bees. Tiny disadvantage to the bees, major simplification for the novice beekeeper - avoid "contact feeders" for now!

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

avoid "contact feeders" for now!

Avoid them full stop - they're the devil's work

 

[Arfermo]

Avoid them full stop - they're the devil's work

I would have agreed with this comment in the past, especially when warm weather tends to make the syrup and air expand within and make the things leak over the brood frames below and the CB to boot, thereby inviting ants in for a slurp. However, just this last 3 weeks or so the weather has not varied a lot and I have found contact feeders to be much less of a problem than previously and more readily accessible for a developing colony. Your choice

 

[RogerJ]

Yes the Nucleus is sitting where the hive is due to go - so I got that bit right!!

It's interesting on the different opinions, both on the forum and in "reputable" books that exist on whether to fill up the brood box with frames or just add a couple with a dummy(s) - I guess similar differences exist in all hobbies.

I was going to use a frame feeder - looks as though there are many opinions on that also!

It's actually reasonably warm outside now - still blowing a bit though. I'll see what the weather is doing in a couple of hours.

Thanks again all.

 

[alanf]

What hasn't been mentioned yet in detail is - what are they in currently? Thin, ply, correx board or substantial five frame wooden or poly nuc? And are they exposed to the full wind/rain?

If the current box is thin they might be having problems maintaining the brood they have. Dummy or partition the full hive brood box down to the size of the nuc box and if it's a lot more substantial than what they are coming from they will soon be happier and warmer moving than staying where they are.

I'd agree that a "rapid" feeder is a lot more beginner friendly than the alternatives. It gives an opportunity for regular peeks and top ups to reassure that they're still there and active without too much disturbance. A frame feeder needs the board off to check and top up and it's a big cool tank of liquid inside a hive they may be struggling to keep warm. But if you only have a frame feeder ready, then it's better than nothing. Add some grass stalks or long twigs as well as the wooden float they usually come with to help the fallers crawl out.

 

[RogerJ]

It's a correx board box - but I've put a hive roof on top to protect from the rain. The hive is protected from the wind so that doesn't seem to be an issue. I've just had a look (on the outside only) and they seem to be happily flying now and I can pollen on some of them.

I've got a rapid feeder (I also bought one of the cheepo lids at the Honey show for a contact feeder but can't find a jam jar that it fits!).

So go for it this evening or leave till tomorrow morning?

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I think the forecast is for better weather tomorrow - so do it then

 

[itma]

... (I also bought one of the cheepo lids at the Honey show for a contact feeder but can't find a jam jar that it fits!).
...

You should find that it fits a standard 1lb round honey jar ... the small size of which is a nuisance for a feeder, but the clear glass jar and the screwed on lid avoid a couple of the major bugbears of contact feeders.

 

[sean-a]

thereby inviting ants in for a slurp. H

I have had quite a few ants in my hive. Is this a problem, or can the bees deal with them?

 

[pargyle]

Avoid them full stop - they're the devil's work

+1 ... I tried one only once ... more syrup on my wellies, the bees, the crown board and the side of the hive than where it should be - just did not work for me !

I use rapid feeders .. cheap as chips .. never had a drowned bee in them and so easy to see when they need refilling and to refill without disturbing the bees at all. Some are a bit smooth in the bee-side parts and I've roughed them up with a bit of sandpaper to give the girls a bit more grip but that's the only issue I've found.

 

[RogerJ]

Well the weather stayed warm and bees safely transferred - so I guess that's the easy bit!

Thanks all for your advice - no doubt I'll be back.

 

[Amari]

+1 ... I tried one only once ... more syrup on my wellies, the bees, the crown board and the side of the hive than where it should be - just did not work for me !

I use rapid feeders .. cheap as chips .. never had a drowned bee in them and so easy to see when they need refilling and to refill without disturbing the bees at all. Some are a bit smooth in the bee-side parts and I've roughed them up with a bit of sandpaper to give the girls a bit more grip but that's the only issue I've found.

No need for that! Fill the contact feeder almost to the brim, fit the lid then invert the feeder over a sandwich box. About 50ml will run out until the consequent vacuum holds the rest. Place the feeder over the hole in the crown board - or directly onto the frames.
The reason for suggesting a contact feeder is that early in the year bees are reluctant to climb up slits or tunnels to the syrup - but no problem later in the year for autumn feeding.