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Ah yes, I was just thinking brood here, if you had both in the brood then the supers would have to be top beespace.

Then you would have a problem if you put a super UNDER a brood......double brood....... Naw, that don't work
 
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You said t+b so I took that to be supers as well....

PH
 
Now i'm getting confused.
start with brood box 8ml on top ,if you then put a super on with 8ml on top thats right ,or is that wrong.
This 8 ml is from the top of the frames to the bottom of the above frames, is that right.
 
Effecively yes.

TBS means there is 8mm between the top of the top bars and the top of the brood box.

The super above has the bottom bars flush with the bottom of the super with again 8mm between the top bars and the top of the super and so on.

PH
 
looks like i'm getting somewhere ph :)
 
I am one of the crusties whatever they are defined as - long time beekeeper or just aged? I started bbs and changed to tbs. I would not change back. Ask that question and I doubt you will find many who have tried tbs (from bbs) and changed back to bbs

The whole hive needs to be one or the other; mixing the two will eventually find an operating problem.

Yes, cost is a factor (eg coverboards), as is simplicity. Laying flexible queen exluders directly on the frames is another. The Dartingtons are tbs (made that way), so if I want to use National supers on those I might have a problem with bee space, if I had a mixture. For me tbs on everything. Lifting frames is no real hassle (long lugs or short) as far as I can see. There are always pros and cons to any format; things are a compromise. I just utilise what suits me; tbs 14 x 12s.

Regards, RAB
 
Having tried to modify a flat pack national to TBS, having read on a prevois post on the forum you could easliy do it

i found that, yes you could move the bearing wall of the hive down 8mm to creat TBS

but that then meant that the end of the frame lugs rest on the top bar ledge you have created by moving the bearing wall down . The frame rest on the top bar as the plastic frame bar attached to the bearing wall is only 6mm high , ie as the frame lug is now resting on the top bar ledgem, the plastic frame bar is 2mm below the frame lug

i though that would mean the frames would get propolised to the top bar and it made the frame bar redundant

So decided to keep BBS this year and perhaps try a langstorth...going all the way, bigger box, short lugs and TBS next year
 
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From memory here.

Making up a nat brood box you haver two sides that slip into rebates? You have a top end (machined for top bars to sit on) which is clear and a bottom end.

To make bottom bee space you slide the sides to the bottom.

To make TBS you err slide the sides up? I seem to remember that working for me.

Probably wrong though..LOL

PH

Ar*se about face I think PH.

The ends which hold the frame lugs are made up of 2 bits. 1) a rebate which is jointed to the 2 sides which run the length of the frame. 2) a piece which attaches to the inside vertical face of this rebate. This bit can easily be dropped 8mm during construction. This just leaves the rebate to have 8mm taken off the inside edge.

It is easy to see when you have the bits in front of you but difficult to describe. If I've done it and I failed O level woodwork then anyone can :) :)
 
I know this isnt the theme of the thread
but
Langstroths do seem easier.

They are simpler to make
Top Bee space
More room than a BS

However I am still a beginner, so I shall see what happens this year with the BS Hive that I am going to add
 
Hi steve

"I know this isnt the theme of the thread
but
Langstroths do seem easier.

They are simpler to make
Top Bee space
More room than a BS"


You are correct and in most likely hood that's why the rest of the world use them. It could also be why every time some muppet decides to invent a new hive some of us want to cry:svengo:


Regards Ian
 

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