Thymol

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Jim,

My view is that OA was for varroa and thymol was for Disentry prevetion/cure?

Why do you treat for dysentery if there are no signs of dysentery?
Cure? Prevention?
So you are saying that to treat with thymol it will prevent dysentery?
I think not Jim, as there are a number of ways the bees will get dysentery and thymol will not kill the spores that cause Nosema or the symptoms of dysentery.
 
Thymol is initially put into syrup to prevent it fermenting or going mouldy, that it also keeps Nosema in check is an added bonus.

Oxalic acid in the winter will indeed reduce varroa infestation, but treatment also needs to be administered after the summer crop as the mites have had all summer to build up again.

Frisbee
 
Hivetool and those new to bees,

there should be no need for any other treatment until the following December.

Not necessarily true and a very dangerous assumption. Possible but you must continue to be vigilant regarding varroah.

Robbing, drifting bees, large quantities of drone brood, and other opportunities for increasing infestation can mean the poulations can reach danger levels long before a year is up.

By all means do it and hope, but don't take it as a hard and fast rule. (I did note you said 'should')

Remember also efficiency of the 'cide' is never(?) 100% so starting at a high level of infestation (at treatment time) will mean, even with high % mite mortality, there will be a higher base level for starters. Try multiplying 5 by 1.7 fifteen times. How few mites do you think will be left after your treatment?

That is 17 three week cycles. That could be a lot of mites!

Regards, RAB
 
A few things to add re varroah for those who haven't read (and should have!) all the relevant material.

Defra PB10859 Managing Varroah is an excellent booklet on the subject. Facts and does not pull punches or extoll the virtues of any particular method.

Mine is far outdated, probably, at June 2005 and updated reprints are probably fairly regular occurencies. Everyone should have one.

Simple. Monitoring and taking effective appropriate action early is the key to success.

By all means, do your own thing re-control - OA, thymol, formic acid, lactic acid, apiguard, brood trapping/disposal, icing sugar, talcum powder, frame traps, drone brood removal, open mesh floors, other systems.

To be on top of it all the time, use, or have available, several of the methods as appropriate. Remember the times that maximum knock-down is achieved (at times of no sealed brood, normally), the most effective for the time of the year, inappropriate methods ('cides' and chemicals with respect to honey flows) at different times of the year.

There is nearly always a method available to suit the conditions providing it is not an emergency situation to prevent total colony breakdown occurring imminently.

Varroah will destroy your colony, given the opportunity. They are a parasite and do not live symbiotically with your bees. Yes, there are some colonies which can resist the effects of the mite, by controlling their numbers, and these are being investigated but until you are prepared to risk a colony, give them some help, well, all the help they need.

That means monitoring, monitoring, monitoring. And action at the first confirmed signs of excessive or potential excessive mite numbers. Beginners beware, especially.

Regards, RAB
 
My view is that OA was for varroa and thymol was for Disentry prevetion/cure?

Hmm:confused:. In which case the many of us using apiguard are wasting our time:). To quote Vita:
Apiguard® is a natural product specifically designed for use in beehives. It is a sophisticated slow release gel matrix, ensuring correct dosage of the active ingredient thymol. Thymol is a naturally occurring substance derived from the plant thyme. It has a proven high efficacy against the varroa mite and is also active against both tracheal mite and chalkbrood.

Apiguard® is a specially designed and patented slow release gel containing thymol. Apiguard gel, presented in 50gm ready to use aluminium trays, regulates the liberation of thymol within the honeybee colony and provides a much more efficient control of hive pests than was possible before.
 
Thank you to everyone who has responded in this thread as it now shows that treatment for disease and varroa must be monitored on every inspection.

As a beginner there is a multitude of this method and that method and I have noticed different methods are recommended by a wide range of experienced beekeepers, again thank you all. (It's as clear as mud)
 
Thank you to everyone who has responded in this thread as it now shows that treatment for disease and varroa must be monitored on every inspection.

As a beginner there is a multitude of this method and that method and I have noticed different methods are recommended by a wide range of experienced beekeepers, again thank you all. (It's as clear as mud)
It is oft said that to get a beekeeping question answered, if you ask 9 beekeepers you'll get 10 different answers. I think this is unfair and inaccurate. Experience shows that if you are as bold as to ask 9 beekeepers you'll get at least 20 different answers, and a good 50% of the beekeepers will then change their mind anyway! :)
Best idea in beekeeping is get as many viewpoints from as many sources as you can, then create your own belief , which seems to make sense to you, constructed from those answers, and see if it holds up in practice. ... a sort of DIY metanalysis of prevailing views. Read around the subject as well. Beware of beekeeping "urban myths". And finally, try to get hold of that elusive strain of bees which can actually read the books! :)
 
Gaz Fella,

I'll second what you said.

Hivetool,

Remember the age old saying : 'There is more than one way to skin a cat'.

Regards, RAB
 
I gave mine a copy of Hooper's Guide to bees and honey - they chewed it up and spat it out:svengo:
 

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