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The key here is dimensions. The roller needs to be the right size to fit national frames otherwise the side bars stop the rollers working.
Humblebee have something like that. It's basically two screed rollers bolted into a box so probably possible to make for under £40-50 including the box.@Martin Godet ....what a brilliantly engineered device that is. Do you think it could be adapted with spiky rollers to jiggle the cells of frames with heather honey?
With all the respect that a cheap Chinese knock off deserves, this copy of the American, Langstroth sized version is missing at least 5 significant design improvements. You can actually get an even cheaper one made from mild steel punched discs for $108 plus £55 shipping. By all means run a comparison test and let us all know how they perform.
I think we could easily produce a set of "Heather Loosener" rollers that could be swapped out or a sleeve over the roller, thanks for the idea and i'll add it to the dev list. I believe the main market is going to be in non-heather honey uncapping so we want to sell a few of those before diversifying too much.@Martin Godet ....what a brilliantly engineered device that is. Do you think it could be adapted with spiky rollers to jiggle the cells of frames with heather honey?
An attractive alternative option would be being able to place it on an existing uncapping tank. Although worth noting that Murray McGregor is constantly moaning UK beekeepers demanding slight modifications to suit their niche operation which results in what started as a simple product being overloaded with gimmicky additions.Since you raised design development, i have a question for you (thanks for being so active in interrogating the Uncapper, i will be adding your questions to the FAQ page over the coming days.)
I was testing it out with a local small scale commercial beekeeper (30 hives) yesterday evening and she asked if a valve / gate could be added to the box as it would suit how she goes about her extraction process.
I'm going to work out the Poll function and ask you if you think it would be a useful addition?
Like this, or this.asked if a valve / gate could be added to the box
Look at the first post.@Martin Godet sorry if being stupid how do i find the videos on youtube searched everywhere
Thanks he said he was also doing some others though showing frames maybe not quite as even that is my concern and also from say a 10 frame box where much fatter.Look at the first post.
@Jimmy, our uncapper comes with fixing points and fixings. They are designed to fix it the tray / box we are including in the sale price. Our box is standard so we will probably off the box as an opt out item, in the case of a breakage the box is very easy to replace. If you have basic DIY skills you will be able to use the @NationalUncapper fixing points to attach it to your own box.An attractive alternative option would be being able to place it on an existing uncapping tank. Although worth noting that Murray McGregor is constantly moaning UK beekeepers demanding slight modifications to suit their niche operation which results in what started as a simple product being overloaded with gimmicky additions.
In our case, the tray / box is just that. I can fit 9 or 10 frames in the box (which holds the Uncapper stable) and it is there to catch drips as you go through the frames and then load them into your spinner. After uncapping 20 fat frames loaded with warm runny hunny in Drone Comb filled frames last night, there was a good deal of honey in the bottom of the box. We don't incorporate a sive, so tip and scrape into your own siving set up.Like this, or this.
Supposing the 30-colony beekeeper had 90 supers or 990 frames to extract, then at 10 seconds a frame the whole job would be done in 165 minutes. How much wax and lost honey would that produce, and would it justify a tap? I doubt it, but an estimate of waste volume could be made after the Petersfield BKA session.
I have the Thorne version and empty it once a year, uncappping using a fork which produces far more waste wax and honey, for twice the numbers above.
Agree with Jimmy: make the core equipment as well-engineered as you can and let the buyer add the fiddly bits.
Fatter / fuller frames do uncap very well. In testing we removed one of the 3 O Rings at each end to reduce the spring force pulling the spindles together. All 3 O Rings and applying a little additional pressure over sunken areas dealt with less fulled areas. If the frame is really irregular then i trimmed them as i would if i were preparing them to go back into the hive. It takes a few goes to get the most consistent results.Thanks he said he was also doing some others though showing frames maybe not quite as even that is my concern and also from say a 10 frame box where much fatter.
Langstroth is on the Dev list - i have several myself. The changes are straightforward and then there are the other geometries too.I like the look of your design and would want to fix it to my existing Abelo Melliflow Pro. However, I am primarily now operating with Langstroth. Would you plan on offering your design for use with Langstroth in due course?
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