Teak oil

[pipewrench36]

I am due to collect a nuc on Saturday, and have been preparing my equipment. In doing this I gave the external surfaces of brood box, roof and stand a wipe over with teak oil. I used this as I did not have any linsead oil. My question is, does anyone have any knowledge or experience of using teak oil ? I started wondering after I had done the deed if it was a wise move as I have not read of anyone else using it.

 

[Baggyone]

From the last lot of teak oil I used, it was mainly linseed oil plus a few other ingredients. As usual allow to dry fully and probably no issue.

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[pipewrench36]

From the last lot of teak oil I used, it was mainly linseed oil plus a few other ingredients. As usual allow to dry fully and probably no issue.

Sent from my Blade using Tapatalk

Thanks for that Baggyone, I will keep my fingers crossed.

 

[Moggs]

No problem at all with multi-coats on most of my hives. Be sure to let it dry though. I approached a 'well known manufacturer' for advice many moons ago and they couldn't (wouldn't?) give me a definitive answer as to safety with bees. However, there was no reference to insecticide on the COSHH datasheet, so, on it went. Make sure that your oil doesn't contain insecticide per se and you will probably be OK.

 

[pipewrench36]

No problem at all with multi-coats on most of my hives. Be sure to let it dry though. I approached a 'well known manufacturer' for advice many moons ago and they couldn't (wouldn't?) give me a definitive answer as to safety with bees. However, there was no reference to insecticide on the COSHH datasheet, so, on it went. Make sure that your oil doesn't contain insecticide per se and you will probably be OK.

Thnks Moggs, this is all very reassuring. Prety sure there are no insecticides, but will check label. As far as I am aware it is just plain Teak Oil. It should be well soaked in as I applied it 2 days ago and I am not putting any girls in the hive untill the weekend. Cheers.

 

[viridens]

Teak oil is normally used as a 'top-up' for existing finishes, and dries on the surface. It will of course soak in to unvarnished wood. Traditionally, it was boiled linseed oil, (boiled to speed up hardening), thinned with turpentine.

These days, the linseed oil is not boiled, but modified with metallised drying agents, and a cheaper thinning agent/solvent such as white spirit is used. A fragrance such as pine oil may also be added.

There will be nothing toxic to your little buzzers once the solvent has soaked in or evaporated, which will only take hours.

Grandfather was a cabinet maker and furniture restorer. I was indoctrinated with this stuff...

 

[pipewrench36]

Many thanks for taking the time to reply. I feel reassured now.

 

[teak]

Ex bee keeper here and present Teak guy.

Do not use teak oil near bees. Teak oil primarily contains petroleum distillates.
A very popular brand is 70 % kerosene and 30 % linseed oil. Xylene and tolulene are also common additives. Each brand has different chemicals to imitate traditional teak oil and do it cheaper.

Traditional teak oil is 40% turpentine, 30% boiled linseed and 30 % tung oil

best regards...Ken / Island Teak