Splits / nucs

[garethjbarry]

Hi, I am trying to plan for the season ahead. I currently have to colonies that have over wintered and seem to be doing well (Only peeked on a nice day). I hope to create a Nuc to build into a full colony by next year but this year would like to build my original two colonies into honey collecting colonies. What I would like to know is when to make the split and how best to do it. Im happy to buy a mated queen to help the nuc build up. Any advice would be much appreciated!

 

[Davelin]

Well not yet.

If your colonies are into their second year and building up well, they will most probably produce queen cells at some stage this summer.

You could then do an artificial swarm which would increase your number of colonies if you don't recombine.

You could make up a nuc including a frame with queen cells in.

If you buy in a queen you could make up a nuc by taking a frame of brood and food from each of your hives in May time if they have lots of brood, that depends on when queens are available.

Whatever you do increasing your number of colonies will decrease the crop you get, but it needn't be by much if you keep your two existing colonies fairly strong.

You should certainly expect a crop from them if we have a half decent summer.

 

[user 7889]

I am beginning to sound like a one man Wally Shaw fanclub!

Go to the WBKA website and look in the information section for a paper about snelgrove boards, and how to use them. You will also find plans for a snelgrove board in the same area. You can add a super below the excluder/crown board, and once the colony has built up carry out a pre-emptive split, putting the new colony above a snelgrove board. You can then, if you wish, make nucs from the top colony, by transferring frames with at least three queen cells to a nucleus hive with bees. Alternatively you can leave the colony above the board.

Personally I wouldn't buy a queen. No need, and potentially of dubious heritage. I would rather raise my own, or work with another local bee keeper.

 

[REDWOOD]

As much as I like Wally the snelgrove board is great for a home apiary but not practical if you can only get to your apiary once a week.

 

[Midland Beek]

Expect both colonies to want to swarm no matter how big or small they are and no matter how early you give them foundation. This is especially the case if they get a whiff of OSR. As such the process of artificial swarming is the way for you to make increase, so get reading the 'Swarming' chapter of your beekeeping book now.

 

[garethjbarry]

Thank you every one, I have a few things to think about. Bring on the good weather!

 

[Bosleeu]

Hi

 

[Bosleeu]

Hi, I am trying to plan for the season ahead. I currently have to colonies that have over wintered and seem to be doing well (Only peeked on a nice day). I hope to create a Nuc to build into a full colony by next year but this year would like to build my original two colonies into honey collecting colonies. What I would like to know is when to make the split and how best to do it. Im happy to buy a mated queen to help the nuc build up. Any advice would be much appreciated!

Simplest way would be to do an artificial swarm. Alternatively you can take a strong nuc from one or both colonies, then raise daughters from your favourite queen (there are quite a few simple methods, my favourite a Miller frame) and use them as increase or requeen with them in Autumn. The Dave Cushman website has great info on all the above.

If you don't manage the above before you find queen cells, the bees have done all the planning for you and all you have to do is the artificial swarm, They should raise a nice new queen for you.

If you want to use bought in Queens, just make up a nuc with a few brood frames (sealed if possible but not essential) and some stores a bit later in Spring when the bees are going strong. There are many ways to introduce a queen, none of them guaranteed.

I hang the new queen in her cage between two frames but I don't remove the little seal to allow the other bees to release her. This I only do after destroying all queen cells on day 4 and 6 after making up the nuc, and the bees are not making an angry bundle all over the queencage anymore. If you miss a queen cell they are unlikely to accept her, but then they should be on their way to request themselves in anyway provided she gets mated.

This is just what works for me.

Good luck.




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[richardbees]

Gareth
Suggest you do 'Artificial Swarm' procedure (or 'split') with each hive and move the 2nd box from one side to the other as described in Ted Hoopers 'Guide to bees and honey'.
This keeps all the foraging bees with the original site to maximise honey production.

 

[susbees]

As much as I like Wally the snelgrove board is great for a home apiary but not practical if you can only get to your apiary once a week.

Is over complicated for the results obtained - keep it simple. We had a talk the other week where a second year beekeeper was absolutely fixated on the thing as the only way. Not great for someone with almost no experience.