Questions from a new beekeeper

[Joe_01]

Hi guys,

I have a few questions that I could use answers or opinions. Some can only be peoples opinions and that fine but if you can back up your opinion that would be even better. Feel free to answer all or only some.

1) Should the the hole/holes in the crown board be covered up at all?
2) I have a crown board rapid feeder tray and it seems that some bees drown in it. Anyway to reduce or stop this?
3) (The long standing debate) Should entrance reducers be used at all, sometimes, or not at all?
4) When do you start wintering bees? (Live in Hampshire, UK. Average winter temperature - 0-2C)
5) Any other tips for wintering bees? (Live in Hampshire, UK. Average winter temperature - 0-2C)
6) Comb is being build on the bottom of the frames which brood is being used for brood. Should I remove this at all?
7) I currently have a open mesh floor, come winter should I get a solid one? (Live in Hampshire, UK. Average winter temperature - 0-2C)

Thank you in advance,

Joe

 

[enrico]

Hi guys,

I have a few questions that I could use answers or opinions. Some can only be peoples opinions and that fine but if you can back up your opinion that would be even better. Feel free to answer all or only some.

1) Should the the hole/holes in the crown board be covered up at all?
2) I have a crown board rapid feeder tray and it seems that some bees drown in it. Anyway to reduce or stop this?
3) (The long standing debate) Should entrance reducers be used at all, sometimes, or not at all?
4) When do you start wintering bees? (Live in Hampshire, UK. Average winter temperature - 0-2C)
5) Any other tips for wintering bees? (Live in Hampshire, UK. Average winter temperature - 0-2C)
6) Comb is being build on the bottom of the frames which brood is being used for brood. Should I remove this at all?
7) I currently have a open mesh floor, come winter should I get a solid one? (Live in Hampshire, UK. Average winter temperature - 0-2C)

Thank you in advance,

Joe

Hi, welcome
1)the holes in a crown board are for feeding only and should be covered at all other times
2)rapid feeders will crown bees if using a 1:1 mix sometimes. When you pour the syrup in twist the cup and you will see any drowned bees float to the surface where they can be removed by other bees. If they are alive they can climb out
3) entrance reducers are a personal matter depending on wasps, weak or very strong hives etc. Use common sense
4) when any nice flows have come to an end
5) feed well if necessary so that they don't need emergency feeding and decide on varroa control
6) I leave that extra comb but I would check the space between frames and floor
7 up to you!!!
E

 

[Murox]

Well Joe you certainly know how to ask questions that will probably bring a lot of conflicting answers!
Here is my twopenny worth.
1 - yes, unless you need to use it for some purpose.
2 - work out how they even get into it.
3 - Sometimes yes. Suggest you switch to Kewl floors or use the idea from Millet on this forum and use tunnel entrances.
4 + 5 - talk to your local association. Its a process not an "instant" task.
6 - no need to unless its causing you management issues.
7 - OMF usually come with a slide in tray/cover, many leave them in during winter.

Much of this depends on your preferences and circumstances, the bees often don't seem too bothered by what we do, as they will do things their way anyhow. Listen to what they tell you.
By the way, Welcome.

 

[Angry_Mob]

1) Always unless using the board for another purpose such as letting them get up to a rapid feeder.

2) Rough grit sandpaper.

3) Only during the cooler months or weak hives.

4) Winter preps start early September for me when they will get treatment for varroa.

5) Make sure you have treated for varrora and fed well. Buy some fondant in for January in case you require it.

6) I find it only happens in my Swienty hives. I knock it off as it usually built wonky and catches on the other frames when lifting the frame, aggravating the bees.

7) I wouldn't but if you have one; you could put the slider tray in to reduce the air flow.

 

[Madge]

...
2) I have a crown board rapid feeder tray and it seems that some bees drown in it. Anyway to reduce or stop this?
....Joe

I suppose you mean the round feeders with the cone in the middle, covered with a cup? Make sure you push the cup in firmly - really firmly - and you won't get drowned bees. Also, when filling the feeder, check that you're not covering the bees on the cone with syrup. Give them a chance to move away.

 

[Newbeeneil]

I suppose you mean the round feeders with the cone in the middle, covered with a cup? Make sure you push the cup in firmly - really firmly - and you won't get drowned bees. Also, when filling the feeder, check that you're not covering the bees on the cone with syrup. Give them a chance to move away.

I certainly found I lost bees in the large square feeders when I first put them on the hives last year so I added addition grip to the cone by spraying with cellulose paint and sprinkling dry sand into it. I don't kill bees anymore.

 

[Madge]

I certainly found I lost bees in the large square feeders when I first put them on the hives last year so I added addition grip to the cone by spraying with cellulose paint and sprinkling dry sand into it. I don't kill bees anymore.

Yes, they work the same as the round ones. Make sure the cup is firmly pushed down - and if that didn't work ... Perhaps the square ones' dimensions are a bit off. I don't know. I've never used them.

 

[eltalia]

Hi guys,
I have a few questions that I could use answers or opinions.

Sure Joe, issit okay with all I address all in paragraph form tho'?

Take the whole of the boxing design as a whole entity for security, ventilation, and dearth feeding
to begin with a solid bottom board owning an adustable screened fullwidth entrance and
17mm riser to box, that entrance and the ventilated migratory style insulated (40mm EPS
minimum) allowing bees to control their environ throughout the stack at any point in
establishment.
No crown board, no mesh bottomboard, and box/frame design that maintains beespace (9mm).
Not an opinion, simply observance of what works for literally tens of thousands of colonys, everywhere.

As to wintering?
Pays to think of this time (season) as a Dearth, which is what it is albeit with variations in extents of the
lowest ambient temperature and the highest of rH (relative humidity) in accordance with latitude (Nth&Sth).
For some days in microclimates there will be exceptions as deep snow or driving rain in high windspeeds
requiring particular retrofits to a basic preparation.
In those last days of autumn, lift the stack, minimum 300mm denying ponding water and ground surface
temps to influence the integrity of the environ bees are to holdup in.
Tilt the stack towards the entrance around 2 to 5 degrees and strap the stack down.
Where practical provide a windbreak across the entrance without any restriction to the entrance itself in
terms of air circulation.
For the colony itself preparation actually begins around those last days of summer into the fall as decisions
are made with them still working flora and brood rearing cruising along, dates are flexible but a broodbreak
during this period will reduce numbers allowing the reconfig of the stack back to broodchamber plus a single
super, no excluder fitted. As bees backfill combs the queen is released to begin laying up of those bees to be
wintered along with bees of age to be wintered. As flying days diminish the assessment of stores is made, and
if in doubt clumped sugar placed above topmost frames under the lid.
All of the above presumes there is a year plan for varroa control, one rigidly adhered to in reducing numbers to
as close to zero as possible in those days before bees cluster.
As in any dearth perodic inspection of sugar consumption should be maintained yet retricted to only
those days where popping the lid is not going to impinge on the cluster in respect of prolonged exposure to
very low temperatures.

Again, not opinion, just more of what works over extended dearth where flying days are nil to none for long weeks
due to either temperature or humidity, or both.
Help?

Bill

 

[Joe_01]

@eltalia - Yes, thank you!

@Madge - Yes, I've got a square one from Thorne but I will definitely go check that my one is on properly in the next couple of days!

@Newbeeneil - Seems we have the same type of feeder so thanks a lot for that idea. If bees continue to die I will try out your idea!

@Angry_Mob - Thanks very much for the advice!

@Murox - Yes I knew I would get an array of opinions but they all help me when it comes to decision time in different scenarios! Thanks for the advice and the welcome!

@enrico - Thanks for the advice and the welcome!

Thank you all for your advice! It's all been very useful!

 

[Anduril]

Entrance reducers can be used on weak hives to reduce the risk of wasp attacks in the autumn, allowing the guard bees to defend the hive. Nothing worse than seeing a hive depleted or destroyed by wasps. Also think about mouseguards for the winter, they can take up residence and eat your brood near their nest inside.