Peak efficiency

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Beagle23

House Bee
Joined
Jan 18, 2017
Messages
344
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Location
Chessington
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
3
So I think one of my hives has reached peak efficiency for the first time.

The beginning of May and I've added two more supers than I usually would, I've gone QX free and I'm juggling brood frames. The result is a hive absolutely full of bees with frames being drawn and filled in record time, and no Queen cells in sight. It's a very sweet spot and the first time since taking up the hobby that I've seen it happen.................I don't expect it to last :willy_nilly:
 
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It is second of May.... It continues.

Add boxes and extract capped boxes.

Give foundations. It hinders swarming.
 
Swarming activity may well be initiated when the current nectar flow diminishes. It is especially evident when OSR is the main forage.
 
For those unfamiliar with management of "critical mass (CM)" as a method of running configs
in peak efficiency I do highly recommend the linked video for those seeking helpfull tips on
both logic and technique in running at CM.
Note Hive#2.
Personaly an additional step is added in providing an entrance gate to 4.5mm (H), left insitu
up until that next inspection in 7days time. Done as it is known for that queen to be called out
despite the space and cell removal changes - the gate denys that impetus on the queen.

I attach a preview as indication of presentation quality.
Enjoy.

Bill

--
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=-GD0oKQSB-c
 
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I know nothing about "critical mass". That I know that the colonies start to expand and I add boxes. First I add second brood box under the brood. I do not wait that they make a bear.

I wonder, why this teacher guy did not give second brood box. The hives had lots of pollen and the queens had miserable laying space.

Just now my hives expands. We had two weeks 15-20C and hives are full brood. But today we have in whole country snow on ground and strong north wind.

I add new boxes in May down, because it is normal that nights are cold, and snow may fall. If I add second box up, heat of the brood escapes up to the empty space.

Some buckfast hives have now 3 langstroth brood boxes. Those few hives have 20 kg willow nectar and old winter sugar and I do not take the food away, because bees need stores the whole May.
 
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That I can say, that if the bees has swarming habit in their blood, no empty space stop them swarming.
 
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That I can say, that if the bees has swarming habit in their blood, no empty space stop them swarming.

I hate swarmy bees. And do not breed from them. And had almost zero swarms last year - except 1 from a very crowded TBH ..
 
Thanks for this video but it is confusing for us novices. As Finman says why just a crap load of supers? Even in decent weather does that work?

On the first hive inspection he also has 10 frames but no QC so just adds a super?!

I run brood and half on some of mine and would have added the super and kept the QE off, then apply the Wally Shaw watch-where-the-top-of-the-brood-nest-is over time to decide if the full or half goes at the top and swap accordingly. Surely swarming primarily is about whether the queen has room to lay?

He mentions at the beginning its about queen pheromone across the hive, sounds reasonable, so then why all that empty super space?

Also why did he take the queen out, cage her and then put her back in again?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 
Prof Robert Winston in his book "the biology of the honeybee" discusses the various theories regarding the triggers for swarming in chapter 11 and comes the conclusion that it is multifactorial involving resource abundance, colony size, broodnest congestion, worker age distribution, reduced transmission of queen pheromones. Well worth a read.

I may have missed it but I don't think he really discusses the genetic variability in the propensity to swarm or the influence of the age of the queen (in terms of pheromone production) which is a shame as these are both important in my view.
 
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I do not mind to read, what trickers swarming.

I became tired to my apiary, when 5 years ago swarming percent was 120%.

I bought new mated queens that I get ridd of swarming genes.

Buckfast hives have went best over swarming season.

Local Carniolans are terrible. I call them "forest bees". They swarm very early without any reason. It is their mission of life and it is printed in their genome.
 
It is always sad to hear that an educated man like you has closed his mind to such things.
 
It is always sad to hear that an educated man like you has closed his mind to such things.

I have not closed mind from these things. I know about swarming surely as much as you. I have seen Black bee swarming, Caucasians, numerous Italian breeds, Elgons, several Carniolans. They have different habits.

It is waste of time after all to read and wonder, why they swarm and why not. I do not waste my life stirring same things tens of years. It does noy help.
 
Thanks for this video but it is confusing for us novices. As Finman says why just a crap load of supers? Even in decent weather does that work?

On the first hive inspection he also has 10 frames but no QC so just adds a super?!

I run brood and half on some of mine and would have added the super and kept the QE off, then apply the Wally Shaw watch-where-the-top-of-the-brood-nest-is over time to decide if the full or half goes at the top and swap accordingly. Surely swarming primarily is about whether the queen has room to lay?

He mentions at the beginning its about queen pheromone across the hive, sounds reasonable, so then why all that empty super space?

Also why did he take the queen out, cage her and then put her back in again?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

The info was posted in respect of Beagle's observation, my effort to clarify (using example) of what "peak efficiency"
actually looks like.
" I think one of my hives has reached peak efficiency for the first time."
If you read the whole of that post _and_ note the expansion allowances made in the video your questions on supers
added have clear answers.
As the video states CM lies between how Hive#1 and Hive#2 present.

There are many many "lessons" in that presentation and why I specifically use it as tutorial for CM, many of the tips
not vocalised. So it is I will attempt to address the questions you raise from your veiwing

"On the first hive inspection he also has 10 frames but no QC so just adds a super?!"

Myself I would have left Hive#1 as is, adding an FD next inspection... depending on flow. Likewise with Hive#2 I
would only be adding a single FD. Unless there is an owned b'keep mobility problem - 0r one is producing free
form cutcomb - it is not "efficient" for bees to be using smaller boxes than FD, regardless of what the Internet says.

"I run brood and half on some of mine..."

I cannot help (anyone) with BCs beyond a single FD box.
Having tried all those differing configs eons ago it is known (to me) such is actually regressive for "efficiency" - no
doubt the maths in showing this have been posted here more than once in the past.

"Surely swarming primarily is about... "
Swarming is not primarily about space, that there is an Internet generated meme... n0t a b'keeps understanding, at all.

"He mentions at the beginning its about queen pheromone..."

Phereomone (queen and brood) tells bees a colony is "queenright" and so to be recognised is indeed throughout the colony on it's airpaths. B'keeps rely on the Fact in performing many management manipulations from raising emergency queens through to correcting LWS (laying workers syndrome).

"Also why did he take the queen out. .."

The queen (any) is caged on finding as with bees past CM - and so in full swarm mode - it is possible to find more than a
single queen running around. He is simply following Good Practice.

Happy to help on any other points noted in video on efficiency without expanding on explantions now supplied - the
topic is on "peak efficiency" so it is a presupposed readers understand the topic, and the example supplied in
that way, none other.

Bill
 
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Prof Robert Winston in his book "the biology of the honeybee" discusses the various theories regarding the triggers for swarming in chapter 11 and comes the conclusion that it is multifactorial involving resource abundance, colony size, broodnest congestion, worker age distribution, reduced transmission of queen pheromones. Well worth a read.

.

Those are usual knowledge in beekeeping. Nothing professor level knowledge.

Resources = bees have work to do, and they have not time think about swarming. Trickers: Rainy week, too cold to fly, blooming gap...

Colony size= biggest colonies swarm first

Broodnest congestion = the beekeeper did not enlargened the hive in time.

Worker age = when the first round of brood has emerged, wintered bees die and hive has only youg bees. Another race or breed use to swarm a month later, and the hive has normal worker age structure.

Pheronomes = you cannot see them. But you can see new queen cells. Thinking pheronomes does not help you.

Genes: If you take the queens from a swarmed hive, you surely get swarms next year. To maintein non swarming genepool in your apiary, it needs a huge amount of work and beebreeding and selecting. In a small apiary it will not succeed. Sooner or later you meet inbreeding problems.
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Amazing to find so much gibberish and blather
stuffed into one post.

Understandable translation - from the veritable social butterfly.
Granting the "benefit of the doubt" in opting out to rattle your glory box
- over entering into an affray - the above naming is found well justified.
A newcomer to Apis.* husbandry your (tantrum) angst is quite the pattern
of the challenged.
[April 2011]
" I know the bees will propolise any space they don't like
but how much of a gap can I get away with? "

.... damning enough :rolleyes:
Tune in, you will most certainly sail through that lump in your learning
... curb.

Bill
 

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