Paradise or abelo poly national.

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Are you saying that the insulation provided by two pieces of poly of identical thickness is the same, regardless of the density of the poly?
Schellenberg, J. (2010). Dependence of Thermal Properties of Expandable Polystyrene Particle Foam on Cell Size and Density. Journal of Cellular Plastics, 46(3), 209–222. SAGE Journals: Your gateway to world-class research journals
it shows that the improvement in conductivity is asymptotic and that at high densities the curve is almost flat
 
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more weight means more cost
Bit difficult to cost: I believe that BS, Mmore and Paynes are made in the same UK factory (there aren't many) which has them by the short and curlies when it comes to production. Abelo are made by Lyson in Poland and production costs may be lower.

Is it more cost-effective to make a cheaper Abelo box in the EU and add export costs to GB than produce a more expensive Paynes box in that UK factory? Abelo were at one time looking to set up their own poly production in the UK.
 
Lyson use a different process to the others, it's quite crumbly poly inside the sort of pressed surfaces, plus the mating surfaces are bonded at manufacture to hard plastic edges, great for stopping the bees nibbling.
 
When did that change then? last time I spoke to Jon they were produced on the continent.
That's the version I was given, JBM.

I recall a conversation at Tradex a while ago in which the factory wanted to up prices considerably to three poly box firms. They got together and resisted some of it.
 
I've ordered some of the new Abelo hives, if they work out I'll slowly move away from wood.
 
I've ordered some of the new Abelo hives, if they work out I'll slowly move away from wood.
The old Abelo polyhives work well for me. I do however routinely make clear 3mm polycarbonate crownboards to replace the five hole poly that come supplied. They dont get wasted as glueing the corner caps in place and attaching a clearer mesh over the centre hole means they make a good clearer board when required. Alternatively a round feeder sits comfortably over the centre hole.
I also plug the various "vents" in the sides of the boxes.
 
Ericbeaumont’s suggestion

“How about a DIY wood floor, new design Abelo boxes, a DIY crownboard and an old design Abelo roof?”

is spot on, sorry, couldn’t work out how to quote it properly.
I’m making wooden under entrances as per JBM’s plans for my apiary with the big wasp problem. The Abelo brood boxes are great, I have the old ones. The crown boards are a bit fiddly but I think the insulation is good and the five holes make it easier to locate the cluster for winter fondant. The old roofs are great.

money saving wise I would go with homemade wooden floor, Abelo brood box, homemade crown board and kingspan block with roof made out of Correx (see fatshark Dave Evans on The Apiarist Blog).

Courty
 
I bought a couple of the Paradise brood boxes when they first came out - they have (had?) the bee space wrong between two brood boxes (about 3 mm) so it's easy to crush bees as you slide frames across which is not easy as there's no space at the end of the frames so the frames stick - even before propolis. A standard queen excluder doesn't work either as you need to chop the corners off. The frame rest is a bee-crusher as there's no lip for the frames to sit on. Shame really as they had promise. If these flaws have been rectified, please let me know.
 
All of my hives are cedar Smiths I also have 6 poly Everynucs. I like the fact that the bees do well in the Everynucs and they don’t suffer from damp and mould. Some of my Smiths can get quite damp so I’m tempted to try out an Abelo 12 frame National poly hive in my exposed apiary. I’m used with top bee space and I like the idea of the rebates.

I have a few questions

1 Will my Smith short top bars still fit on the Abelo frame runners I’m assuming they will.

2 Will the poly crown board house porter bee escapes and if not how do you use it as a clearing board.

3 Will the plastic tray under the floor cut down on the draught through the mesh floor (it would be handy in the winter time).

4 It looks like to me that the frames run the warm way. Having never worked hives the warm way are there any issues with that?

The cost of the hive doesn’t bother me as it should pay for its self in a couple of seasons. My main issue is it compatible with my Smith frames? Thanks for any help in advance.
 
Sorry I couldn’t wait any longer for replies so I’ve gone ahead and ordered two. :) My bees are building up so slowly that it’ll still be no bother to move frames over in a few weeks time.
 

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