Oul Seed Rape Extraction

[DonkeyDonz]

Can members point me please to a definitive OSR harvesting document? What if the frames aren't capped? Do I return to the bees for cleaning/replenishing? TIA!

 

[Erichalfbee]

I don’t know if there is one
Take honey off when the flowers start dropping before it’s capped. You can use the shake test or more accurately your refractometer
Yes put the frames back for the summer flow.

 

[Wilco]

Here's what I do.

• Once OSR is well in flower I'll take a quick look at a couple of shallow frames when I do weekly inspections to see how capped/ready it is.
• Generally it sets very quickly so usually half capped frames through the shallow is my tipping point. I will confirm with the shake test (shake a frame in horizontal plane, if little or almost no drops come out it's probably ready) as it's quick. You can take a refractometer but this takes longer and if you've got a suit on it's more awkward.
• As there is a decent chance it is setting/thick, keep spin speed low to reduce blowouts.
• Once spun I strain into a bucket, confirm moisture content with refractometer and then wait a couple of weeks for it to set.
• At this point the frames can go back into use or storage depending on need.
• Once it has set (fully set and rock hard) I warm each bucket to 37-39C. This usually means the honey has a slurry/sludge like consistency, which is what you want
• At this point, out comes the drill with a paddle mixer. I prefer the spiral mixers of the type used for paint/plaster but it's recently been pointed out this may not be appropriate for food as most are powder coated or galvanised rather than stainless steel (or just don't specify). If I find a not extortionate stainless steel one I'll update the forum.
• Mix for about 10 minutes which smashes up the crystals nice and small. You are now ready to jar it, I'd recommend doing this while it's still warm. It will now stay soft set.

 

[Wingy]

Took my OSR crop off as the frames were full but not yet capped. I think that during a mega flow which OSR gives the bees are just too busy collecting to get round to capping it off. As said the shake test is a good indicator and check with a refractometer. I do this prior to extraction just in case then the supers could go back on if need be. However I’ve never had an issue and from the 50 litres extracted so far this season the highest reading was 17.4 and that’s from 95% un capped frames

 

[Mint Bee]

Unless you are lucky, I think you will find a good portion will be starting to set now if its predominately OSR. I took mine off 2 weeks ago and the super frames that failed the shake test have started to crystallise on the hive. If you can, make sure supers are kept warm prior to extracting as this will help with processing

 

[Amari]

Here's what I do.

• Once OSR is well in flower I'll take a quick look at a couple of shallow frames when I do weekly inspections to see how capped/ready it is.
• Generally it sets very quickly so usually half capped frames through the shallow is my tipping point. I will confirm with the shake test (shake a frame in horizontal plane, if little or almost no drops come out it's probably ready) as it's quick. You can take a refractometer but this takes longer and if you've got a suit on it's more awkward.
• As there is a decent chance it is setting/thick, keep spin speed low to reduce blowouts.
• Once spun I strain into a bucket, confirm moisture content with refractometer and then wait a couple of weeks for it to set.
• At this point the frames can go back into use or storage depending on need.
• Once it has set (fully set and rock hard) I warm each bucket to 37-39C. This usually means the honey has a slurry/sludge like consistency, which is what you want
• At this point, out comes the drill with a paddle mixer. I prefer the spiral mixers of the type used for paint/plaster but it's recently been pointed out this may not be appropriate for food as most are powder coated or galvanised rather than stainless steel (or just don't specify). If I find a not extortionate stainless steel one I'll update the forum.
• Mix for about 10 minutes which smashes up the crystals nice and small. You are now ready to jar it, I'd recommend doing this while it's still warm. It will now stay soft set.

Exactly my method.

 

[DonkeyDonz]

Here's what I do.

• Once OSR is well in flower I'll take a quick look at a couple of shallow frames when I do weekly inspections to see how capped/ready it is.
• Generally it sets very quickly so usually half capped frames through the shallow is my tipping point. I will confirm with the shake test (shake a frame in horizontal plane, if little or almost no drops come out it's probably ready) as it's quick. You can take a refractometer but this takes longer and if you've got a suit on it's more awkward.
• As there is a decent chance it is setting/thick, keep spin speed low to reduce blowouts.
• Once spun I strain into a bucket, confirm moisture content with refractometer and then wait a couple of weeks for it to set.
• At this point the frames can go back into use or storage depending on need.
• Once it has set (fully set and rock hard) I warm each bucket to 37-39C. This usually means the honey has a slurry/sludge like consistency, which is what you want
• At this point, out comes the drill with a paddle mixer. I prefer the spiral mixers of the type used for paint/plaster but it's recently been pointed out this may not be appropriate for food as most are powder coated or galvanised rather than stainless steel (or just don't specify). If I find a not extortionate stainless steel one I'll update the forum.
• Mix for about 10 minutes which smashes up the crystals nice and small. You are now ready to jar it, I'd recommend doing this while it's still warm. It will now stay soft set.

I guess I only need to use my uncapping roller on capped stores not the whole frame?

 

[Wilco]

I guess I only need to use my uncapping roller on capped stores not the whole frame?

Yes although I tend to use one of these or a hot air gun


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-...ocphy=1006716&hvtargid=pla-660910534537&psc=1

 

[DonkeyDonz]

Yes although I tend to use one of these or a hot air gun


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-...ocphy=1006716&hvtargid=pla-660910534537&psc=1

Here's what I do.

• Once OSR is well in flower I'll take a quick look at a couple of shallow frames when I do weekly inspections to see how capped/ready it is.
• Generally it sets very quickly so usually half capped frames through the shallow is my tipping point. I will confirm with the shake test (shake a frame in horizontal plane, if little or almost no drops come out it's probably ready) as it's quick. You can take a refractometer but this takes longer and if you've got a suit on it's more awkward.
• As there is a decent chance it is setting/thick, keep spin speed low to reduce blowouts.
• Once spun I strain into a bucket, confirm moisture content with refractometer and then wait a couple of weeks for it to set.
• At this point the frames can go back into use or storage depending on need.
• Once it has set (fully set and rock hard) I warm each bucket to 37-39C. This usually means the honey has a slurry/sludge like consistency, which is what you want
• At this point, out comes the drill with a paddle mixer. I prefer the spiral mixers of the type used for paint/plaster but it's recently been pointed out this may not be appropriate for food as most are powder coated or galvanised rather than stainless steel (or just don't specify). If I find a not extortionate stainless steel one I'll update the forum.
• Mix for about 10 minutes which smashes up the crystals nice and small. You are now ready to jar it, I'd recommend doing this while it's still warm. It will now stay soft set.

Is it true all traces of OSR should be removed to avoid crystallisation of further non OSR stores?

 

[Wilco]

Is it true all traces of OSR should be removed to avoid crystallisation of further non OSR stores?

Pass. Others on here suggest that nadiring the frames gets them emptied and traces go to shallows which are supered which seems to lower the risk of crystallising but I've not had enough personal experience/experimenting to give you a conclusive amswer.

 

[robmort]

Took my OSR crop off as the frames were full but not yet capped. I think that during a mega flow which OSR gives the bees are just too busy collecting to get round to capping it off. As said the shake test is a good indicator and check with a refractometer. I do this prior to extraction just in case then the supers could go back on if need be. However I’ve never had an issue and from the 50 litres extracted so far this season the highest reading was 17.4 and that’s from 95% un capped frames

Wow, that must be a good refractometer: reading to 0.1 accuracy!

 

[Hedgerow Honey]

Melted out four hundred frames this year, just didn't get around to spin it,
Nowhere near as bad as the ivy last year, that cost us seven hundred.

 

[Hedgerow Honey]

I realise that my post does sound quite extreme, we all have Covid and I should have maybe put an explanation in as well.

We don't view melting out supers as a loss at the moment, we have lots of national that came from a downsizing beefarmer, these contain all sorts of frame types.
There are Smith, national, wired & unwired, it is quite frankly a right PIA dealing with them, lots have had cut comb removed and have been drawn far from straight.

Last year we also ran an experiment during the OSR flowering, I have always used drone in supers, just following on from my grandfather, but a larger beefarmer in our BFA KEG group put forward some pretty good examples of the difference in production between drone & worker in supers.
Starting with colonies as similar as possible, foundation intermixed with drawn comb, we found a 12% increase in box's containing just worker comb, in fact in a few colonies they didn't touch the drone, as a consequence we are not pushing to spin out the drone as its being replaced.

 

[Newbeeneil]

I realise that my post does sound quite extreme, we all have Covid and I should have maybe put an explanation in as well.

We don't view melting out supers as a loss at the moment, we have lots of national that came from a downsizing beefarmer, these contain all sorts of frame types.
There are Smith, national, wired & unwired, it is quite frankly a right PIA dealing with them, lots have had cut comb removed and have been drawn far from straight.

Last year we also ran an experiment during the OSR flowering, I have always used drone in supers, just following on from my grandfather, but a larger beefarmer in our BFA KEG group put forward some pretty good examples of the difference in production between drone & worker in supers.
Starting with colonies as similar as possible, foundation intermixed with drawn comb, we found a 12% increase in box's containing just worker comb, in fact in a few colonies they didn't touch the drone, as a consequence we are not pushing to spin out the drone as its being replaced.

Very interesting. Pity 80% of my supers have drone in them