Number of frames in a wbc

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ROACHMAN

House Bee
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Location
North Wiltshire uk
Hive Type
Langstroth
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50+
Ive got 2 WBC hives

All the books state that they accommodate 10 frames which leaves a gap. Is it OK to fill this gap with an eleventh frame or is this a definate no no.

I apologise if this has been asked before but im new to this forum

James
 
its normal in a wbc to use a dumby frame whish is simply a piece of 1/2 ply with a timber batton nailed to the top a bit of a solid frame as it were, if you want or need 11 frames build/buy a nation box, it will fit inside the outer casings mine all have 12by 14 nationals inside the outers
 
Ive got 2 WBC hives

All the books state that they accommodate 10 frames which leaves a gap. Is it OK to fill this gap with an eleventh frame or is this a definate no no.

I apologise if this has been asked before but im new to this forum

James

normally you leave a space for a dummy board so you can easily remove frames when they a stuck down like BBBBBBB

the spacing of frames depends on your needs, in a wbc brood 10 +dummy

in BS super its 9.10 or 11

in a BS national brood it is said to be 11 frames (35mm centre) plus dummy but their is nothing to stop you using 12 frames..excepts it is bl**dy difficult to get them out and you'd kill a few bees doing it...and THE GIRLS will remember and take revenge the next time you go in

some use even closer spacing at 32mm when using 4.9mm small cell foundation so as to force the bees to make smaller depth cells,

so in a BS national at 32mm that is 12 frames plus dummy so at that space you could get 13 frames if you repace the dummy...dont try it unless you have mastered normal size cell bees and use 4.9 or 4.7 foundation

Dummy boards:- i use Cushman's design as on his web pages:

http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman/dummyframe.html

it is a standard straight sided frame with solid bottom rail with hardboard sides rough side out nailed on (or in my case 14x12 hoffmans stripped of the shoulders to make straight sides)
 
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thanks for that

Do I need a dummy board or can I just leave the gap ?
 
Quote "it is a standard straight sided frame with solid bottom rail with hardboard sides rough side out nailed on (or in my case 14x12 hoffmans stripped of the shoulders to make straight sides)" unquote.

MM,
Any particular reason why the hardboard is rough side out? Not being picky just curious:)
Mike
 
Quote "it is a standard straight sided frame with solid bottom rail with hardboard sides rough side out nailed on (or in my case 14x12 hoffmans stripped of the shoulders to make straight sides)" unquote.

MM,
Any particular reason why the harddboard is rough side out? Not being picky just curious:)
Mike

MJB

just followed cushman's design on his web site,he is normally very good, could not afford retail prices (£10.56 including postage) and had a thornes "second" frame to play with as it was absolute...Cr**

i assume the high polish glaze on harboard might cause bees problems but thats just an after thought


ROACHMAN

a dummy board at the correct space ( single bee space) tothe end frame means the bees draw the end frame out more evenly and full to sides, if you leave out the dummy baord, you will get also get wild brace comb in the void
 
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If you leave a gap of greater than bee space the bees will fill it with comb.

If the gap is less than bee space the bees may well want to stick it down with propolis.

The above is a beekeeping rule of thumb that pretty much dictates the way we operate.

PH
 
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