Nuc plans cutting guide

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Julian4983

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I’m looking for a cutting guide/dimensions to give to my local timber merchant to help me build 2 or 3 Roger Patterson Nucs. I’ve taken a look at the David Cusham page and although its a great resource, I’m very confused :unsure:

http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/roger_nuc_box.html
Could anyone help me out of my fog ? Thanks all
 
Base it off this but obviously divided in two. I make the floor separately rather than RPs built in one as it means I can stack them for expansion if needed.

When ordering remember to put in extra thickness and width to compensate for drying and expect to cut down/thickness a little if needed.

Finished dimensions IIRC are about 18mm thick for all sides.

Long sides are 460mm. Either use DCs width of 225mm or RPs depending on whether you're building the floor in.

Short sides are half what they are in a normal BB (424mm), minus another thickness of 18mm so I make that 194mm long? These are less wide/deep than the long sides, as above either use DCs width of 201mm or RPs depending on whether you're building the floor in.

End bars usually 25mm by 44mm, each will be half their usual length so 230mm, if you're doing the tongue and groove method. If just slotting a block in as it's easier then presumably 194mm as per the short sides.
 
Base it off this but obviously divided in two. I make the floor separately rather than RPs built in one as it means I can stack them for expansion if needed.

When ordering remember to put in extra thickness and width to compensate for drying and expect to cut down/thickness a little if needed.

Finished dimensions IIRC are about 18mm thick for all sides.

Long sides are 460mm. Either use DCs width of 225mm or RPs depending on whether you're building the floor in.

Short sides are half what they are in a normal BB (424mm), minus another thickness of 18mm so I make that 194mm long? These are less wide/deep than the long sides, as above either use DCs width of 201mm or RPs depending on whether you're building the floor in.

End bars usually 25mm by 44mm, each will be half their usual length so 230mm, if you're doing the tongue and groove method. If just slotting a block in as it's easier then presumably 194mm as per the short sides.
Be careful mixing the two drawings. The one Wilco indicates is bottom bee space and RP's is TBS.
 
Be careful mixing the two drawings. The one Wilco indicates is bottom bee space and RP's is TBS.
Although thinking about it surely with the DC link, you can adjust to make it TBS by dropping the rebate at the top by another 8mm?
 
Although thinking about it surely with the DC link, you can adjust to make it TBS by dropping the rebate at the top by another 8mm?
Yes but probably easier to just raise the rebate and add a rim to the crown board in RP's box to make it BBS like a standard national hive.
 
This is a bit of a bodge but. . . . why not buy a standard National brood body (£17 Thornes sale). make it up, let the glue dry and then cut it in half. Get your local timber merchant to cut 2 sides at 460mm x 225mm pieces out of 18mm ply and drill and screw these sides onto the cedar halves. My local hardware store will cut a couple of pieces from a sheet of ply. More expensive but you only need 2 sides.

Made some 5 frame nucs for myself using something like your Roger Pattinson plans and they're a bit tight with standard frames. Got something wrong. If you use a flat pack from a major supplier the important dimensions will be right.

Not sure whether this would be cheaper. Easier tho' if you have no access to power tools.

. . .. Ben
 
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This is a bit of a bodge but. . . . why not buy a standard National brood body (£17 Thornes sale). make it up, let the glue dry and then cut it in half. Get your local timber merchant to cut 2 sides at 460mm x 225mm pieces out of 18mm ply and drill and screw these sides onto the cedar halves. My local hardware store will cut a couple of pieces from a sheet of ply. More expensive but you only need 2 sides.

Made some 5 frame nucs for myself using something like your Roger Pattinson plans and they're a bit tight with standard frames. Got something wrong. If you use a flat pack from a major supplier the important dimensions will be right.

Not sure whether this would be cheaper. Easier tho' if you have no access to power tools.

. . .. Ben
Good idea Ben, and it should be the same dimensions as RP's. You still have to make the floor, roof and crownboard but that's easy.
 

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