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east yorks , have you thought about selling your brood boxes ? if so what price would you sell at ?
 
to clean

far to clean that workshop!!!!!!!!!!! mines a right tip!!!!!!!!

Cheers
Dave W
 
east yorks , have you thought about selling your brood boxes ? if so what price would you sell at ?

Yes I have thought about it and I have no idea what price I would ask, am thinking about taking a complete hive (Stand, Omf with monitoring board, Brood Box, Framed QE, 2 supers, Crown Board and Roof ) to my association auction and see how that goes.
 
Hello East Yorks New Bee,
I have been thinking about starting beekeeping for a long time. Then a couple of weeks ago, I was given a quantity of 6x1 (3/4 finish) enough to make a hive or maybe two. Searching online for the past week for more information,

Bert
East Sussex


i have metric plans for 18mm wood , if you need them, then pm me

is it 3/4/19mm or 18mm you have, you may need to take this into account with measurements on thescottish plans

or google cushman bees national for his plans
 
I make my hives from western red cedar obtained from Timbmet in 150x25 section.I plane and thickness this to either 19 or 22 thickness,depending wether I'm making B.S.Natiomals or 16x10's.The plans on the Scottish Beekers Ass'n web site are taken from the old MAFF pamphlets.I biscuit join the boards for broodboxes but I can get supers direct from the 150 mm boards.I specify 8ft lengths for the boards from Timbmet because this allows me to cross cut the 18 1/8 national sides and 18 3/16 commercial (16x10) sides with a minimum of waste.I also use tenons on the cleats and hive sides because this allows a pin to be hammered vertically thro' the top wall and cleat stopping damp to expand the timber and thus "jack" the walls apart and thus allow more water to penetrate the hive interior. My 16x10 hives are finger jointed on the board ends to make a sound end join .A simple finger jointing jig is very easy to make but commercial ones (very expensive) are available.Smith hives are very popular up here in Scotland ( probably because they are cheaper) and are much simpler to make but have the disadvantage of using short lugged frames.Another source of hive plans is BIBBA - their plans also include 4 and 5 frame neucs -just cut down Nationals really.As far as cost goes I find my costs - not including labour-works out at about 1/3 those quoted by Thornes.I don't use ordinary pine because I can't get good enough quality,the cost is nearly as much as the W R Cedar and our wet Scottish climate would soon cause them to rot.I also treat the EXTERIORS of the boxes with Cuprinol Clear which is not toxic to my bees.I buy in roof metals from a source that is much more reasonablly priced than mess'rs Thornes as well as hive runners etc.I am just working out the steps for making all my frame parts which I find have now jumped in price .Frame feeders are also simple to make and can at a pinch be made by using frame parts , 3mm plywood and coating the interior with several coats of polyurethane paint.
 
Hi Rourki,I'm near Stranraer,quite adjacent.I'm chairman of the Western Galloway Ass'n.Just had disturbing news that one of our members has found AFB in one colony bought second hand from a guy thats given up .Keep an eye on your colonys 'cos its also affecting bees around Dumfries as well as up north at Aberdeen.
 

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