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Moving a WBC 10 miles the Plan!!

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milkermel 

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Right I was hoping that the hive I look after would have shrunk down a bit by now, But still over 2 broods with overflow outsideof the boxes!!!

SO in the next couple of days I have to move this hive, If I close/block the entrance can I just strap the whole hive together and two people lift it?? Or am I taking rollocks!?

obviously doing this at night/late evening there will be even more bees inbetween boxes and outer lifts.

Has to be done now as the person is moving house in next 2 weeks
:svengo:
 

Heather 

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Block the entrance at late night & spread a sheet under the hive - v early next morning 6am- wrap the whole hive in a couple of double bed sheets and tape all together with duck tape or similar. Have car next to hive or near as pos- and two of you- even 3 in full kit- gently move into car. I have Galaxy and have fitted such into that - if not- an open truck if you have friend with one...
Bees in between the hive and lifts will be dormant at 6 am and the sheets will contain them.
Good luck :biggrinjester:
 

justme 

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Right I was hoping that the hive I look after would have shrunk down a bit by now, But still over 2 broods with overflow outsideof the boxes!!!

SO in the next couple of days I have to move this hive, If I close/block the entrance can I just strap the whole hive together and two people lift it?? Or am I taking rollocks!?

obviously doing this at night/late evening there will be even more bees inbetween boxes and outer lifts.

Has to be done now as the person is moving house in next 2 weeks
:svengo:
Just a thought, could u not temporarily put an extra box on top to contain the bees then remove lifts and and strap them together? That may also be ligher to move although pretty high, perhaps a flat roof? Di:.)
 

milkermel 

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could add the extra box only issue is that I dont really want to have to double run bodmin to rock (extra 30miles)

There will be 3 strong people around at the weekend - well 2 and me! so should be possible I hope. just wanted to make sure that I wasnt being daft to contemplate!

Heather - is there any reason I cant move them that evening when closed up? only for the same reason as above, except them I willhave to get the other 2 as well to do 2 runs?

was thinking of getting them to the new site that evening then unwrapping the following morning they are getting a new omf so will need to place next to new stand and tx in the morning. will 8 am be ok or will I need to get hive opened in evening? (Milking until 8am that day)
 

oliver90owner 

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Here is how I would attack the problem.

Remove lifts, wait for bees to settle in hive. If really too big for two broods add a super of drawn comb beforehand.

A travel screen* should have been fitted above, if no OMF at present.

Seal entrance and strap all together with at least two ratchett straps, prefrably three.

Transport.

Rebuild outer bits and pieces and leave until opened up A cloth over the travel screen will help to keep them warm overnight, if necessary, while still giving ventilation, or just fit the coverboard over as appropriate.

*Why a travel screen for ten miles? You never know what hold ups there might be.....
Little ventilation and disturbed bees can mean overheating quite quickly although they should be OK this time of the year.

Regards, RAB
 

Skyhook 

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SO in the next couple of days I have to move this hive, If I close/block the entrance can I just strap the whole hive together and two people lift it??
No- thats why people don't use WBC's. Strapping the outside doesn't restraint the bee-ey bits (note use of technical term) :)
 

milkermel 

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No- thats why people don't use WBC's. Strapping the outside doesn't restraint the bee-ey bits (note use of technical term) :)
:banghead::banghead: sometimes I am just so dense!!! haddnt thought of that nightmare!

guess it will have to be two visits . . . remove lifts hope everything settles in. . having said which if I wrap it up in sheet then doesnt matter if a few clustered outside!

thanks for stateing the obvious! Skyhook!
 

PaleoPerson 

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I moved two WBC's last year and neede two different approaches due to the condition of the hives. In WBC's that are setup correctly, there should be no way a bee can get inbetween the brood and lifts. The escapes are there for trapped bees during inspections.

Plan A

Check the bood boxes for gaps/holes and if OK, tape the boxes together along the seams as well a travelling screen to ensure thay do not move in transit. Then late PM when all are settled, block entrance, remove roof and lifts and tape brood to floor. The double strap boxes to floor and the relocate with out roof and lifts installed.

Plan B

If the condition of the hive is such that you cannot gaurantee it being beetight.

Re-house in a std national and move that.
 

JamesB 

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I picked up a hive (national 2 broods, 2 supers and a roof) 3.5 hrs from my home and this is how we did it,

2 pieces of angled metal the height of the hive put along opposite corners (the angle followed the shape of the corner) - obviously the roof was removed.

We then strapped it at 4 points, 2 across the sids and around and 1 or 2 over the top and around the bottom of the hive.
(used tape to seal the door)

Slid the hive off the concrete stand onto a set of wheels
wheel the hive to a trailer
once the hive was in the trailer, we had previously created 2 'L' shaped wooden grips that fitted around the top of the hive and then onto the sides of the trailer,

More straps etc (never have enough of them.

traveled 3 1/2 hours back home and the hive moved about a inch along the floor of the trailer but the hive remained upright and brood and supers were still aquare to each other.

The success was the angled metal running along (upright) the corners of the hive from top to bottom in opposite corners and the strapped.

-
Oh we arrived at the hive site at about 8pm approx 6 weeks ago (getting dark) we sealed the bees in then (obviously lost a handful that were trying to put us off the idea of moving the hive)
evening the majority of the coloney is back by then and only a few guards were left behind.

travelled the 3.5 hrs and on arrival moved the trailer into position as close to the new hive position (about a foot behind it) and opened up the hive (they couldnt wait to get out - must remember the suit next time)
Next morning on inspection about 50 bees ish found on the floor of the trailer - suited up (these northern lasses were a tad sharp) moved the hive onto its new stand/position
 
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JamesB 

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oh i know he has a wbc but i believe removing the lifts you should still be able to square the hive and strap it together.
 

Finman 

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You need an upper mesh that the hive will not overheat.
Then a transport belt that boxes are tight together.
Sustained that hive do not move during transport or when you push suddenly breaks.

Move it during morning. You may close the entrance in previous evening.
Evening is really bad to move. No sence to do it in darkness.

You may close the hive even in the middle of day. Put a nuc gather the bees which are outside.

Keep smoker and protective suit with you if something happens.
 
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