Leaf mould

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Monmouth
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I asked this question on a gardening forum to which l belong and didn't receive a very satisfactory answer so thought l would try this section of beekeeping forum, knowing a lot of members have gardening/land interest too.

I collect and shred a lot of leaves from a variety of trees on my land; oak, willow, silver birch, witch elm, hazel, hornbeam. I know that leaf mold adds structure to the soil rather than nutrients, but l wonder if there is any nutritional value in leaves and if so, which have the greatest value?

My leaf mold usually makes in a year, since l have started shredding with the mower, previously it took two years. This year the leaves have been pretty wet, so am wondering if this will have an effect on the speed of breakdown, and should l leave the pile open to the elements (so getting wetter through the winter), or try to cover it. Usually l don't cover.
 
I asked this question on a gardening forum to which l belong and didn't receive a very satisfactory answer so thought l would try this section of beekeeping forum, knowing a lot of members have gardening/land interest too.

I collect and shred a lot of leaves from a variety of trees on my land; oak, willow, silver birch, witch elm, hazel, hornbeam. I know that leaf mold adds structure to the soil rather than nutrients, but l wonder if there is any nutritional value in leaves and if so, which have the greatest value?

My leaf mold usually makes in a year, since l have started shredding with the mower, previously it took two years. This year the leaves have been pretty wet, so am wondering if this will have an effect on the speed of breakdown, and should l leave the pile open to the elements (so getting wetter through the winter), or try to cover it. Usually l don't cover.
My mother in law stores her leaves (mostly oak) in a large compost bin constructed of wood and bricks. She puts a piece of sacking on top for a lid, and leaves it to rot down. As far as I know, she doesn’t worry about how dry or wet the leaves are. I have seen bins made of chicken wire. Some air flow is beneficial to stop the leaves going slimy. Sorry, but I don’t know about the possible different nutritional values of leaves.
 
According to the RHS, oak, beech and hornbeam produce the best leaf mold. Managed to find some figures, but they were for a mixed tonne of leaves in the USA.
 
Keeping the leaves wet and warm makes a difference, we line our bins with thick dpc polythene and some times done layers of fresh chicken/horse/cow manure and then a layer of leaves.

If collecting leaves and putting in black bags make sure there wet and puncture holes in the black bags.
 
Having just collected (as I do every year !) 3 x 1 tonne bags of assorted leaves I've noticed little difference whether the leaves are dry or wet ... the three bags go (after about a week in the bags to settle) into a one metre cube pallet sided compost bin ... where they sit - I turn them into another bin in the spring and they are pretty much leaf mould by the time that I need the bin for the nexr year's crop. The top of the bin is open but is sheltered under a huge yew tree - it gets some rain on it.

I use it for lots of things ,... adding to compost for pots and tubs, digging in as a soil conditioner, mulch around shrubs - a very valuable garden commodity. I don't think just leaving the leaves on the ground works as well .. they dry out and blow about - although they will break down eventually and worms will pull them down. Definitely don't leave the laying on lawns though.

I have conifers in the garden and pine needles are not that good ... they do get mixed up with the decidous leaves I collect up but I've noticed they don't break down as much.
 
All the leaves go in and we mix mix it with compost or use it as a mulch round the garden
Holly is a bugger though but too difficult to exclude so we just wear gloves mixing it
 
All the leaves go in and we mix mix it with compost or use it as a mulch round the garden
Holly is a bugger though but too difficult to exclude so we just wear gloves mixing it
I never quite understand about 'mulch'. Presumably it's unfinished leaf mold, or compost? When spread on the soil in autumn it gets taken down by worms through the winter and is thus 'finished' in the soil and becomes incorporated just as compost would?
 
I never quite understand about 'mulch'. Presumably it's unfinished leaf mold, or compost? When spread on the soil in autumn it gets taken down by worms through the winter and is thus 'finished' in the soil and becomes incorporated just as compost would?
Yes to some extent but I use it all the year round .. a mulch in spring will retain moisture in the soil and in summer will protect the top layers of soil around fruit bushes or shrubs from drying out where the roots are often consolidated. In addition - you are correct - it does get drawn down into the soil and any organic matter (humus) you can get into the soil will replenish the elements that are so important to assist plants to grow and flourish.
 
When I was head Gardener on the estate we had an 8 wheeler full of spent mushroom compost delivered every February./sept This wS used as a mulch.
Autumn mulching is really good to, as come the spring it's all pretty much gone..
I would mulch in autumn and spring the more organic matter u can get into the soil the better.

Another tip when you add mulch hoe the top layer of soil to brake it up and then add your mulch.
 
I wait until the leaves are wet so the wind doesn't blow them away. I then put at least a foot depth on the earth and leave it. The leaves are a great insulator and keeping the temp. up at the earth's surface keeps the upper soil life present and working through the winter. When things warm up in spring I take off the leaves that are left, and when the soil warms I put the mulch back. I don't use a compost bin, everything goes directly onto the veg. patch. Some leaves such as oak or walnut etc. are tougher and take longer to break down.
 
I never quite understand about 'mulch'. Presumably it's unfinished leaf mold, or compost? When spread on the soil in autumn it gets taken down by worms through the winter and is thus 'finished' in the soil and becomes incorporated just as compost would?
There are many things that can be put on the surface to protect the earth. Some are organic such as straw, and some are inorganic such as plastic or pebbles. When it is organic and not only protects the soil from water loss, erosion etc. but also decomposes to feed the soil life, then it is called mulch.
 
I make heaps of shredded leaves and wait six months.
Makes an ideal mulch.

3 oak trees in the adjacent field plus 2 x 40 year old beech trees plus maple , willow etc. Makes a mix which rots fairly quickly.

I use some mixed with normal potting compost in containers/plastic tubes/half compost sacks in the greenhouse . Add a high strength tomato feed and it's far cheaper than Grow Bags - and as good.

Holly goes to the Council Recycling Centre.
 
Decomposed leaves are a great soil conditioner but as others have said. no nutritional value. We make a lot of home compost too, for our raised veg beds, my other half is really good at mixing with layers of fresh horse manure and turning it. Best mulch for the price, is 3 month old woodchip (younger than this it leaches tannic acid and can take nutrients out of soil). We mulch all our borders once a year with this, delivered by the truckload late autumn from our local tree yard. Woodchip is really good for protecting the soil, keeps moisture and heat in & encourages your soil to be fungally dominated. This in turn means the fungi associate with plant roots and extend their reach, so in turn the plants access more water and nutrients. Been doing this for the last 10 years and another big benefit is no weeding, so gives more time for beekeeping!
 
I make heaps of shredded leaves and wait six months.
Makes an ideal mulch.

3 oak trees in the adjacent field plus 2 x 40 year old beech trees plus maple , willow etc. Makes a mix which rots fairly quickly.

I use some mixed with normal potting compost in containers/plastic tubes/half compost sacks in the greenhouse . Add a high strength tomato feed and it's far cheaper than Grow Bags - and as good.

Holly goes to the Council Recycling Centre.

Yes ... we do the same ... my high strength tomato fertiliser is also home grown ... I have a big patch of Comfrey at the allotment - I harvest the leaves, steep them in rainwater until the mash has broken down, strain out the remaining solids ... add a teaspoon full of epsom salts per gallon and then dilute 10:1 ... best tomato (and general plant) food there is.. Costs next to nothing..... mind you ... it stinks like sh1t whilst it is stewing so you do need a lid to your container. I occasionally make a high phosphate one by adding seeweed to the mash (collected above the tide line from the beach and washed to remove the salt) . Nettles are good to add as well ...
 
Yes ... we do the same ... my high strength tomato fertiliser is also home grown ... I have a big patch of Comfrey at the allotment - I harvest the leaves, steep them in rainwater until the mash has broken down, strain out the remaining solids ... add a teaspoon full of epsom salts per gallon and then dilute 10:1 ... best tomato (and general plant) food there is.. Costs next to nothing..... mind you ... it stinks like sh1t whilst it is stewing so you do need a lid to your container. I occasionally make a high phosphate one by adding seeweed to the mash (collected above the tide line from the beach and washed to remove the salt) . Nettles are good to add as well ...
Sugar honey ice tea.. Philip, I to collect sea weed and have used comfrey.

I have also used mollases in the seaweed extract.
Plenty of sugars, minerals makes Tom's taste delicious try some.
Do you use an ec metre? Essentials - EC Meter
 
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My property is surrounded by oaks and the previous owner had made a large heap at the end of the garden, which I was going to use as a mulch. Sadly I was unable to dig it as the nearest oak had grown a mass of fibrous roots through the heap turning it into a single lump.
So I shred them and compost them now, together with grass cuttings, which makes a good end product.
 
Sugar honey ice tea.. Philip, I to collect sea weed and have used comfrey.

I have also used mollases in the seaweed extract.

Plenty of sugars, minerals makes Tom's taste delicious try some.
Do you use an ec metre? Like this

I can't get the link to work ... I have a combined moisture/ph meter which I do use. I've had all sorts of problems growing tomatoes over the years - when they have been good the taste is fantastic ... in the bad years it would have been nice to have any to taste. This year was a good one despite starting late from seed - I tried Maskotka (free seeds on a Gardeners World Mag) - absolutely brilliant and a fantastic crop. Being a bush variety no need to pick out the side shoots either. I started out Gardeners Delight at the same time ... got a few tomatoes but not a patch on the Maskotka.

Toms Good crop.jpgToms one picking.jpg
 

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