Just made a Horizontal Hive.

[Boston Bees]

I agree with all the above advice, but, assuming good insulation is added, isn't it sensible to leave one escape in the roof of these hives? So bees trapped when the cavernous roof closes can escape? Like on WBCs? But completely agree on closing the other holes.

 

[pargyle]

I agree with all the above advice, but, assuming good insulation is added, isn't it sensible to leave one escape in the roof of these hives? So bees trapped when the cavernous roof closes can escape? Like on WBCs? But completely agree on closing the other holes.

Not needed... you have crownboards ...the odd bee flies about but no different to a normal hive roof ... indeed- hinges make it easier to flick the odd ones out of the way..

 

[BugsInABox]

If you choose not to take notice of the suggestions here,

That’s harsh. Reads more like clarification than will full ignorance.

 

[pargyle]

That’s harsh. Reads more like clarification than will full ignorance.

If you read the replies to some suggestions by the OP you will see that they are fairly robust as well so I don't think he's going to run off in tears...

 

[BugsInABox]

It was. The tone here, which I enjoy, is generally quite robust - not asking for change; throwing a new-bee a bone.

 

[BitterleyBee]

I say well done, looks fantastically well made, much better looking than my pallet bodged together equivalent. I would say pay attention to the bees and see how they treat the space, so as someone suggested, if they propolis over the holes don't rush to remove. I think what you learn from your own bees, in your location, with the hive you have given them will be more valuable than some of the absolutist comments that you can't do this or you must do that. very inspiring.

 

[Cedar Field John]

I say well done, looks fantastically well made, much better looking than my pallet bodged together equivalent. I would say pay attention to the bees and see how they treat the space, so as someone suggested, if they propolis over the holes don't rush to remove. I think what you learn from your own bees, in your location, with the hive you have given them will be more valuable than some of the absolutist comments that you can't do this or you must do that. very inspiring.

Thanks for your nice reply. I'm not concerned at all by the comments on the vents. I have kept and painted the drilled out circles for when they may be needed to block the holes; just like the many other people who have made the hive in this design. The cover boards with the vents can also be moved away from the colony.

 

[Cedar Field John]

Just finished painting the hive. Think it looks great.

 

[madasafish]

That looks nice although purple is not my scene in a garden.

Hope it will be outside somewhere safe and secluded. It will be VERY obvious in an open space .
I paint all my hives dull browns and greens to avoid attention: there have been a series of hive thefts locally.

 

[Boston Bees]

Just finished painting the hive. Think it looks great.

Looks great, and very striking.

Because the legs are completely vertical you may want to secure it to the ground to stop it flipping in very high winds? I am sure you have already considered this.

 

[pargyle]

Just finished painting the hive. Think it looks great.

It's a work of art ... reminds me of a shirt I owned in 1966 ... personally, as you've gone that far I would paint a few flowers on it as well .. Here's some ideas ... Peace and Love ....

 

[BugsInABox]

Just finished painting the hive. Think it looks great.

Nah I hate the colour.

Jokes!!

 

[pargyle]

Looks great, and very striking.

Because the legs are completely vertical you may want to secure it to the ground to stop it flipping in very high winds? I am sure you have already considered this.

Yes.. you are right ... once there is some weight in it then it may be a little top heavy.

 

[Cedar Field John]

Looks great, and very striking.

Because the legs are completely vertical you may want to secure it to the ground to stop it flipping in very high winds? I am sure you have already considered this.

Yes that's one thing I would change. I wish I had set them on a slope. I will definitely be doing that on my next build. It's incredibly heavy, so hopefully it won't blow over too easily.

 

[Cedar Field John]

Can I ask how much space there is between a frame and the centre of your follower board? There should be no space between the side bar and the face of the board making the board effectively the side of the hive. It looks like there is too much

Yes, I have to make an adjustment to the follower boards top bars, so one side is flush to the face of the follower board. Other than that, they fit with a 1mm gap all the way round the inside of the box. There is also no gap at all to the cover boards on top.

 

[BigAshW]

Yes that's one thing I would change. I wish I had set them on a slope. I will definitely be doing that on my next build. It's incredibly heavy, so hopefully it won't blow over too easily.

Just watched YouTube video where the builder had crossed his legs in an X at each end.

It looked very effective and something I shall try and accommodate in my design

 

[Cedar Field John]

Just watched YouTube video where the builder had crossed his legs in an X at each end.

It looked very effective and something I shall try and accommodate in my design

That's a very nice idea. Would definitely need a couple of bolts through the crossover, as there will be a lot of weight on that point.

 

[BigAshW]

That's a very nice idea. Would definitely need a couple of bolts through the crossover, as there will be a lot of weight on that point.

Yes I was considering a horizontal brace across at this point between the two ends.

 

[Cedar Field John]

Yes I was considering a horizontal brace across at this point between the two ends.

That would definitely help. You wouldn't want the legs closing like a pair of scissors.

 

[Cedar Field John]

If anyone is interested in building a horizontal hive to fit deep frames, then in my calculations I found that three standard studwork timbers that you can pick up at wickes or b&q produce the exact depth required for the body. Two are 89mm x 38mm and one is 63mm x 38mm. The Three combined produce a depth of 241mm (89 + 89 + 63) with a thickness of 38mm. This will give you, after taking the upper beespace and the depth of a deep frame (216mm) into account, a bee thoroughfare underneath of exactly two thirds an inch (17mm). I just glued and dowelled them together. It made it very affordable.