Joining Hoffman to DN4 frames

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CliffDale

House Bee
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
210
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0
Location
Cornwall uk
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
8
How do you go about getting the correct spacing?

Do you join them using wide spacers?

Cliff
 
Just use one type in a box. So much easier. Beekeeping can be complicated enough without adding extra ones. You will regret ever thinking about it - later rather than sooner.

You could if you must.

RAB
 
How do you go about getting the correct spacing?

Do you join them using wide spacers?

Cliff

Or narrow spacers on both the dn4 and hoffman frames. Its also possible to get the correct spacing by eye if you just gauge the gap in between the top bars . Many people use their thumb
 
Erm, am I missing something here?

DN4 are Hoffman-style frames.
 
Are Dn4 and hoffman not the same? please say they are or i have just miss understud everything i have read in the last 6 months.
 
yep, DN4 are DN5 hoffman with the narrow top bar used on DN1

so i assume the question is DN1 to DN5

http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/bsframedesignations.html

My three answers

1) judge by eye
2) narrow spacers on both DN1 and DN5 gives 37mm ( hoffmans are 35mm)
3) wide spacers only the DN1 that abuts the DN5, gives 36.5mm

but hoffmans when heavily waxed are about 39mm or more
 
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DN4 frames have S2 sides, which are Hoffman style - according to Dave Cushman's site.

A terminology glitch perhaps, but we all seemed to get the picture, none-the-less. :)
 
WPC,

Yeah, another trick question just to catch us out!

Didn't give it a thought. I only use 14 x 12s so don't mess with other sizes - wide top bar is standard. Supers are (nearly) all cheapest available (SN1s, I s'pose) apart from the odd hoffman (which are awkward in the extactor) and a few Manleys which will soon be narrower or passed on!

Regards, RAB
 
I so wish, actually if I got the proverbial three wishes one would be to get rid of spacers in one swift move to Hoffman.

PH
 
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WPC,

Yeah, another trick question just to catch us out!

Didn't give it a thought. I only use 14 x 12s so don't mess with other sizes - wide top bar is standard. Supers are (nearly) all cheapest available (SN1s, I s'pose) apart from the odd hoffman (which are awkward in the extactor) and a few Manleys which will soon be narrower or passed on!

Regards, RAB




Well, I'm glad we've cleared that one up.

NEXT!!
 
Well so am I,I was just begining to wonder what on earth I have been using all year.:confused:


well you can have 13 slot castles i purchsed from Dave Cushman at BIBBA stand at stoneligh when he convinnced me AMM on 4.9mm foundation was the way forward and therefore DN1 @ 32mm spacing....but i forgot i used 14x12s and they dont do DN1 14x12 frames
 
I'd bet more bees...and queens...get squashed in Hoffmans.

Not if they are replaced by gently sliding down from above, rather than leaving a space and quickly shoving them together!

RAB
 
I assume that Hoffmans are better when moving hives less chance to move around.

Rab do you get the DN5 top rails because they are delivered as standard or is it your preferred choice its just that I get told that they are stronger and I think this is wrong.
 
My understanding of DN5's is that they are stronger (28 x 18 vs 22 x 18) and this is needed for the extra weight that is involved in the 14 x 12 frames.

DN5's are standard for 14 x 12
 
Yep, the standard issue.

They are stronger (see PP post), but they break just as easily at the lug (which is the same for both).

I have had a few with broken lugs - dropped into place just a bit too heavily. Most often happens when I 'throw' a full frame of stores into a waiting box (to transfer it to another colony). Too cavalier, and it will then be a pain in the other box (on the skew!).

I now bed my frame joints with a fairly hefty tap with a hammer. If the lug breaks, better at that stage than later in use! Broken two Th*rne seconds this year doing that.

Regards, RAB
 
"Yep, the standard issue"

Thats what I thought as for the stronger bit Rab and You will know this the joint and the lug is the same size as with all top bars and its this part that takes all the strain or it seems to me to be the case when handling the frames. the only advantage in the thicker rail is perhaps it will reduce any twist that may happen if the frame is held with only one lug.
 
I'd bet more bees...and queens...get squashed in Hoffmans.

Not if they are replaced by gently sliding down from above, rather than leaving a space and quickly shoving them together!

All that will do is kill bees by rolling and is the main reason why I fit a maximum of 11 frames and a thin 9mm dummy rather than cram 12 frames into a National, then I can move the dummy away from the last frame, lift it out and then move each frame away from the adjacent one. They then get replaced right up against the wall where the dummy was previously. They are spaced very close together by hand and then they are finally squeezed up with the hive tool before the dummy is fitted in the opposite end of the box.

Moving the frames together slowly ought to prevent any squashing. If you listen you can hear bees that are getting trapped, release the frame and they often move away without any apparent damage
 
All that will do is kill bees by rolling and is the main reason why I fit a maximum of 11 frames and a thin 9mm dummy rather than cram 12 frames into a National, then I can move the dummy away from the last frame, lift it out and then move each frame away from the adjacent one. They then get replaced right up against the wall where the dummy was previously. They are spaced very close together by hand and then they are finally squeezed up with the hive tool before the dummy is fitted in the opposite end of the box.

Moving the frames together slowly ought to prevent any squashing. If you listen you can hear bees that are getting trapped, release the frame and they often move away without any apparent damage


This is the technique/arrangement that I employ too!
 

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